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Wheelset for Disc Trucker

Old 12-17-21, 03:07 PM
  #1  
downhillmaster
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Wheelset for Disc Trucker

I just picked up a new Surly Disc Trucker, and other than swapping out the stock saddle for a Brooks C17 I plan on keeping it stock except for upgrading the rims.
Will never be loaded up(other than me lol)and I will mostly be riding on fairly well paved roads.
I am 230lbs.
Anything decent out there that is not carbon and under $600?
TIA
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Old 12-17-21, 03:20 PM
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mstateglfr 
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https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/pwb-...t-package.html

Kinlin 31 rim tubeless compatible but not welded seam
Bitex RA12 hubs
Sapim Laser spokes
Sapim brass nipples
$443 and 1579 grams with 28 spokes on each wheel

H Plus Son Archetype rim not tubeless compatible, but welded seam
Bitex RA12 hubs
Sapim Laser spokes
Sapim brass nipples
$480 and 1557 grams with 28 spokes on each wheel

H Plus Son Hydra rims are also available- they are tubeless.
There are actually tons of options between all the rims, hubs, and spokes. The two above are pretty dead middle standard while also being handbuilt and lighter than the stock wheelset.
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Old 12-17-21, 03:56 PM
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downhillmaster
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/pwb-...t-package.html

Kinlin 31 rim tubeless compatible but not welded seam
Bitex RA12 hubs
Sapim Laser spokes
Sapim brass nipples
$443 and 1579 grams with 28 spokes on each wheel

H Plus Son Archetype rim not tubeless compatible, but welded seam
Bitex RA12 hubs
Sapim Laser spokes
Sapim brass nipples
$480 and 1557 grams with 28 spokes on each wheel

H Plus Son Hydra rims are also available- they are tubeless.
There are actually tons of options between all the rims, hubs, and spokes. The two above are pretty dead middle standard while also being handbuilt and lighter than the stock wheelset.
Thanks!
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Old 12-17-21, 04:47 PM
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I'm curious why you would buy a LHT if you aren't going to haul stuff with it, as that is pretty much it's raison d'etre.

As for wheels, there's no point in going lightweight with that bike. Have your LBS build you some wheels with DT Swiss 350 hubs, good alloy rims (tubeless if that is your thing), and DT Swiss Competition spokes - 32h or 36h. Should be about $800 or $900 and will be bombproof.

Edit: I see your price limit is $600. Go with cheaper hubs (the Bitex hubs recommended above are fine) and some DT Swiss rims that are reasonable. Welded vs pinned rims make no difference. But really, I would ride the stock wheels until they had problems.
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Old 12-17-21, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Koyote View Post
I'm curious why you would buy a LHT if you aren't going to haul stuff with it, as that is pretty much it's raison d'etre.

As for wheels, there's no point in going lightweight with that bike. Have your LBS build you some wheels with DT Swiss 350 hubs, good alloy rims (tubeless if that is your thing), and DT Swiss Competition spokes - 32h or 36h. Should be about $800 or $900 and will be bombproof.

Edit: I see your price limit is $600. Go with cheaper hubs (the Bitex hubs recommended above are fine) and some DT Swiss rims that are reasonable. Welded vs pinned rims make no difference. But really, I would ride the stock wheels until they had problems.
You are 100% correct but I like the coolness factor of the bike and it is capable enough for regular road riding.
I donít care about weight but do like to upgrade here and there.
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Old 12-17-21, 06:19 PM
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FWIW here's what I got from prowheelbuilder.com for $500. I wanted a real rugged wheel set so I over-stated my weight and specified "Really Hard Use" - I think they'd flag the parts selected if they don't measure up to that requirement.

(I had to add that spoke wrench to get it over $500 to get free shipping.)
If you go with prowheelbuilder keep an eye on the availability of the components you select - I wasn't paying attention to that and had to wait a couple months because they had to wait for the rims.

I'm very satisfied with these wheels and prowheelbuilder.com.

Front Hub SHUTTER PRECISION PD8 (ALL AXLE TYPES) DYNAMO ISO 6 BOLT DISC BLACK Price $139.00
|Drillings 32
|Axle Width QR Front 9x100mm
Front Lacing Pattern Lacing: Three Cross
Front Nipple SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK BRASS NIPPLE Price $0.15
Front Rim WTB KOM TOUGH TCS I 25 29IN BLACK RIM Price $86.00
|Drillings 32
|Size 700c/29er
|Tubeless Tape and Valve for 1 wheel Installed (Not available as Rim Only) + 13.00
Front Spoke SAPIM RACE J BEND BLACK DOUBLE BUTTED 14|15|14G OR 2.0|1.8|2.0MM SPOKES Price $1.24
Use Really Hard Use
User Weight 240
Wheel Build Weight 1104.96Rear Wheel
Rear Hub SHIMANO XT FH M756 SIX BOLT BLACK DISC REAR HUB Price $70.00
|Drillings 32
|Axle Width QR Rear 10x135mm
|Shimano HG/SRAM 8,9 or 10spd (Dyna-sys 11 spd compatible)
Rear Lacing Pattern Lacing: Three Cross
Rear Nipple SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK BRASS NIPPLE Price $0.15
Rear Rim WTB KOM TOUGH TCS I 25 29IN BLACK RIM Price $86.00
|Drillings 32
|Size 700c/29er
|Tubeless Tape and Valve for 1 wheel Installed (Not available as Rim Only) + 13.00
Rear Spoke SAPIM RACE J BEND BLACK DOUBLE BUTTED 14|15|14G OR 2.0|1.8|2.0MM SPOKES Price $1.24
Use Really Hard Use
User Weight 240
Wheel Build Weight 1190.96
PARK SW-40 BLACK .127 FOUR SIDED SPOKE WRENCH

Last edited by tyrion; 12-17-21 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 12-18-21, 02:45 AM
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Take your pick.

https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/road-disc/

https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/Coupons.html
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Old 12-26-21, 09:37 AM
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Shimano GRX WH-RX570 wheelset in 700c or 650b (assuming your frame was sizes for 700c, not 26" wheels). Can be run tubeless or with tubes, They retail for about $450 and are perfect for your use. i have a pair on a Surly Midnight Special and they have been wonderful.
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Old 12-28-21, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Shimano GRX WH-RX570 wheelset in 700c or 650b (assuming your frame was sizes for 700c, not 26" wheels). Can be run tubeless or with tubes, They retail for about $450 and are perfect for your use. i have a pair on a Surly Midnight Special and they have been wonderful.
I would not have thought that 24 spoke wheels would be ideal here?
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Old 12-28-21, 08:04 AM
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Seems to me your stock wheels are appropriate for the overall component level and are adequate for your weight. Spend your money elsewhere. Tires, kit, shoes....
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Old 12-28-21, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
You should go with at least 36 spokes. Disc brake and your weight will put a lot of tension on those spokes.

You could pop a couple spokes just by braking over bumpy sections of the road if you go with less # of spokes.
When is this- 1980?
32h handbuilt wheels with butted spokes and a modern 23-28mm deep rim are plenty strong.
Even 28h handbuilt wheels with those spokes and rim profile would be good.

36 will also obviously work, but it is more than needed for an unloaded paved road cyclist that weighs under 270 or so.

I mention this because some hubs and rims aren't available in 36h.
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Old 12-28-21, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
You should go with at least 36 spokes.
False. A properly built 24 or 28 spoke wheel (front or rear) will be stronger than any of us would ever need. The key is properly built, which means properly tensioned.
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Old 12-28-21, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Shimano GRX WH-RX570 wheelset in 700c or 650b (assuming your frame was sizes for 700c, not 26" wheels). Can be run tubeless or with tubes, They retail for about $450 and are perfect for your use. i have a pair on a Surly Midnight Special and they have been wonderful.
For under $600 this is likely your best bet. We happen to love this set of wheels and sell a lot of them for a decent upgrade in his price range. They are fantastic wheels and have Shimano warranty.

Wheel strength has gone up exponentially over the past 20 yeras or so to a point where even good tandem wheels are 28 and 32 spoke instead of 36 or 40 spoke to support over 400 pounds of riders and machine. You can get great wheels in 32 and 28 spoke count in this price range for your weight. check recommended rider weight limit specified by manufacturer for whatever you decide on.
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Old 12-29-21, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
You should go with at least 36 spokes. Ö
And then...

Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
My new wheelset has 32h. Ö
And considering the 14 1/2 hours between the posts, you already had these onÖmaybe your original post was a typo?
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Old 12-29-21, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
My new wheelset has 32h. I was a bit worried it may not be as strong as my 36h. But turned out as good at eating giant potholes as 36h.
How you feed potholes to your wheels makes a big difference, too.
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Old 12-29-21, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cubewheels View Post
Taking note of the hours, unbelievable. I only had the 32H for two weeks and don't fully trust it yet. 36H was my original set, the one that got dented in collisions and kept on riding it for thousands of miles. I trust the 36H more and would recommend it first.

I did encounter many big potholes with the 32H already, one of them launched me off my seat. Remained undented and true, I suppose it passed the test.
My gravel roads don't sound this bad.
Your experience is at the far end of what anyone will expect to see when riding. As such, what you recommend will also often be at the far end of what is needed for others.
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Old 12-30-21, 01:24 AM
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Your conditions don’t sound like a simulation of a 300 lb rider with disc brakes, cubewheels, they sound like the experience of someone who seems unable/unwilling to pick a line and lacks bike handling skills. I’ve been riding on 24h wheelsets on all sorts of surfaces, including some gnarly gravel and single-track for more than 5 years, while weighing a steady 78-80kg. I’ve broken exactly 2 spokes, both on pavement, and both while riding in straight lines while not braking, on front and one rear. I have no doubt that your country has some “interesting” roads, but yours isn’t the only one. We’ve got them here in Europe, and we have them in the US, especially in many of the rural areas.

For the OP’s stated use (and frankly any kind of smooth gravel): 32h might be good insurance, 36h is overkill (unless touring or exceptionally heavy), 28h is probably optimal, and 24h is definitely not a mistake. Assuming non-extreme examples like roads that aren’t roads and riders unable to pick a line to avoid direct strikes with “potholes”, the real factor in wheel durability is how well built the wheel is, not a magical spoke number.
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Old 12-30-21, 06:27 AM
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OP has an actual touring bike rated for +/- 300#. Not a BSO. Actual components, not pot metal. There is no indication he rides like a 12 year old. He will be fine.
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Old 12-30-21, 06:36 AM
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Thanks for all the replies.
FWIW I have always ridden almost exclusively on well paved roads with minimal potholes.
I now plan on adding a bit of packed gravel to the mix.
I donít know if I feel comfortable or knowledgeable enough to have a set built so I am trying to find something suitable without the need for configuration.
TIA
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Old 12-30-21, 11:59 AM
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For all the fuss people make about gravel roads, they're pretty forgiving compared to the paved roads in my area. Potholes (and the mounds sometimes created when they're filled) are hard and unforgiving. Gravel can be uneven, but it will shift around as you ride over it.
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Old 01-03-22, 07:56 AM
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Aside from the wheels, consider upgrading the tires! Wider tires - if you arenít already at max clearance - will be more comfortable, more versatile, and more forgiving of potholes etc. If the bike came with wire bead tires, definitely switch to folding bead; and if it came with tubes, consider tubeless (although I only use tubeless in tires >=38mm wide).

Any time you have a choice, use brass nipples instead of aluminum. Brass are much more durable.
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