Top quality mechanical disc brakes short list
02-18-22, 06:36 PM
#26
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The HY/RD's are super simple to setup and maintain, and they work almost as well as fully hydraulic brakes with compressionless housing and cables in good order. The only problem with them really is that if you ride a ton of miles and / or frequently in poor weather, the cost of replacing good quality housing more frequently negates the cost savings compared to full hydraulic. They will, however, still be much easier to setup and adjust for people that are only familiar with cable brakes.
02-19-22, 03:21 AM
#27
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I recently added a basic adventure bike with a 2x10-Speed Shimano Tiagra groupset and Lyra mechanical disc brakes from Tektro. While I wanted mechanical disc brakes to help simplify set-up and maintenance, the reviews on the Tektro Lyra brakes are consistently negative. What replacement flat mount mechanical calipers would you recommend? I'm researching Paul Klampers and TRP HY/RD but will consider other advanced alternatives.
02-19-22, 03:42 AM
#28
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The HY/RD's are super simple to setup and maintain, and they work almost as well as fully hydraulic brakes with compressionless housing and cables in good order. The only problem with them really is that if you ride a ton of miles and / or frequently in poor weather, the cost of replacing good quality housing more frequently negates the cost savings compared to full hydraulic. They will, however, still be much easier to setup and adjust for people that are only familiar with cable brakes.
Ahh, not really. Hydros are not that hard to install. For me the hardest part was routing the hoses through the frame and fork, same has new cables, and squashing one olive. Other than than that my first ever hydro install was event free. I did take longer than usual, but thats to be expected when its all new and foreign. I do recommend getting (or makeing) a bleed kit, a hose cutter and barb tool (you can use a sharp knife, a small hammer and patience), some extra fluid and a few extra olives and barbs. Then watch a bunch of YT videos to prepare.
After the initial install Id argue maintenance is much less than what I had before with the mech TRPs.
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02-20-22, 06:06 AM
#29
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I like TRP Spyre, especially for such an easy adjustment. I have QR axles, so after mounting wheel there is quite often need to adjust caliper a little. With TRP I do not have to move whole caliper, because it is possible to adjust both pads separately. Very easy, quick and precise work.
My advice is to use compresionless housings. Lever feels much better than on standard. Brake pads are very average, but because it is standard Shimano shape from lower level brakes, good aftermarket spares are quite cheap.
My advice is to use compresionless housings. Lever feels much better than on standard. Brake pads are very average, but because it is standard Shimano shape from lower level brakes, good aftermarket spares are quite cheap.
02-20-22, 02:17 PM
#30
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They are not hard after you have done a few and have the tools, but it's still more difficult than the HY/RD setup, which is possibly the easiest brake in the world to setup since it has the ease of cable setup + self centers the pads as a hydraulic caliper.
02-22-22, 06:15 PM
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02-25-22, 01:41 PM
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I guess what I'm saying is, yeah maybe they keep some stuff out but if conditions are bad enough (like Mid South), then in the end it doesn't matter, they'll get messed up. Also, the covers fall off easily. Also, they don't cover the "arms" and like you said those are hard to clean out. I have a set that don't retract fully because the arm pivots are compromised with sand and grit.
02-26-22, 09:58 AM
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02-27-22, 02:40 PM
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Promax is... er.... something to upgrade from...
02-27-22, 02:57 PM
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I had Promax long-reach sidepulls on my Mercier Nano, so not only Walmart…but yeah, they were rubbish. I replaced them with Tektro, which were better.
03-02-22, 08:27 PM
#39
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I'm running Juin Tech R1 on my Fog Cutter and they have been trouble free for over 4000 miles. I like the easier lever pull from the tops vs a full mechanical like the BB7, sort of in the middle of mechanical and full hydro. I don't have any experience with the Spyre.
I recently put on a set of Paul Klampers on my mountain bike, but don't have enough riding time to give an opinion.
I recently put on a set of Paul Klampers on my mountain bike, but don't have enough riding time to give an opinion.
As to whether than are worth nearly 3x more than Juin Tech R1 would depend on the application. The R1 are on my road / gravel bike with drop bars and the stopping power is more than sufficient. However, I don't bomb down dirt trails on this bike. I've heard that the fluid can overheat on hybrid brakes due to the small reservoir, and for this reason, I went with the Klampers on my mountain bike.
Note that full hydro brakes will stop just as good, if not better, than the Klampers, with less expense, but there is something about cable pull brakes that I like. I do expect the Klampers to last longer than the average hydro caliper.
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03-03-22, 08:43 AM
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This is in direct comparison to the Shimano Deore MT-500 hydraulic brakes on my XC bike, which has a 180mm front rotor. Obviously a rather good basis of comparison.
03-03-22, 05:41 PM
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I would say that the Promax brakes stop very well and have good feel; no issues with them whatsoever. Poor braking performance could mean the pads were bedded in yet.
This is in direct comparison to the Shimano Deore MT-500 hydraulic brakes on my XC bike, which has a 180mm front rotor. Obviously a rather good basis of comparison.
This is in direct comparison to the Shimano Deore MT-500 hydraulic brakes on my XC bike, which has a 180mm front rotor. Obviously a rather good basis of comparison.
03-05-22, 08:21 AM
#42
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I now have some miles on the Klampers and I have been quite impressed. They are being used on my mountain bike (flat bar, short pull) and the stopping power is excellent. It has taken me longer than expected to get the caliper adjusted, but this may be due to me wanting to get the position perfect. The lever feel is different than hydro, but I can still stop with 1 finger in most situations. The size of the klamper caliper may limit install options on some bikes as well.
As to whether than are worth nearly 3x more than Juin Tech R1 would depend on the application. The R1 are on my road / gravel bike with drop bars and the stopping power is more than sufficient. However, I don't bomb down dirt trails on this bike. I've heard that the fluid can overheat on hybrid brakes due to the small reservoir, and for this reason, I went with the Klampers on my mountain bike.
Note that full hydro brakes will stop just as good, if not better, than the Klampers, with less expense, but there is something about cable pull brakes that I like. I do expect the Klampers to last longer than the average hydro caliper.
As to whether than are worth nearly 3x more than Juin Tech R1 would depend on the application. The R1 are on my road / gravel bike with drop bars and the stopping power is more than sufficient. However, I don't bomb down dirt trails on this bike. I've heard that the fluid can overheat on hybrid brakes due to the small reservoir, and for this reason, I went with the Klampers on my mountain bike.
Note that full hydro brakes will stop just as good, if not better, than the Klampers, with less expense, but there is something about cable pull brakes that I like. I do expect the Klampers to last longer than the average hydro caliper.
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03-06-22, 08:43 AM
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If you search online enough, you can hear just about everything. Often opinions intertwined with facts. We install the Hy/RDs on a lot of bikes with heavy riders that want better performing cable brakes. We never have any problems, and our riders ride up and down Pittsburgh hills all day.
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03-06-22, 02:11 PM
#44
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If you search online enough, you can hear just about everything. Often opinions intertwined with facts. We install the Hy/RDs on a lot of bikes with heavy riders that want better performing cable brakes. We never have any problems, and our riders ride up and down Pittsburgh hills all day.
I've always wanted to try the klampers. It came down to full hydro or klampers in the end and decided to spend the ~$100 more and go for the klampers. Shortly after purchasing, a pair of new XT 4 piston hydro with levers appeared on the market for $150, had those appeared before I bought the klampers, my bike would of had those..
03-29-22, 12:40 PM
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I’ve used bb7, spyre and now hy/rd.
bb7 are nice, loud and need adjustment.
Spyres are super easy to setup, super easy adjustment when needed and aren’t prohibitively expensive. Uses same pads as shimano. They don’t work as well with older Shimano brifters. When matched with compressionless housing very good brakes.
Hy/rd, again super easy to setup. With compressionless really nice feel, stopping power and modulation. Really poor match with older Shimano levers. If you use cross top levers no issues with braking. Expensive though.
If I was on a budget I’d get spyres, otherwise hy/rd. They are IMO worth the extra $$. I’ve had no issues with mine in any riding condition. Better in rain/cold/snow than the spyres too.
Another nice thing about the trp brakes is they are fixable. Trp sells all the parts to fix them from cable bolt to seals/ pistons etc. and specs on how to repair them.
bb7 are nice, loud and need adjustment.
Spyres are super easy to setup, super easy adjustment when needed and aren’t prohibitively expensive. Uses same pads as shimano. They don’t work as well with older Shimano brifters. When matched with compressionless housing very good brakes.
Hy/rd, again super easy to setup. With compressionless really nice feel, stopping power and modulation. Really poor match with older Shimano levers. If you use cross top levers no issues with braking. Expensive though.
If I was on a budget I’d get spyres, otherwise hy/rd. They are IMO worth the extra $$. I’ve had no issues with mine in any riding condition. Better in rain/cold/snow than the spyres too.
Another nice thing about the trp brakes is they are fixable. Trp sells all the parts to fix them from cable bolt to seals/ pistons etc. and specs on how to repair them.
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11-09-22, 03:05 PM
#46
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For reference, having used none of these because I'm shopping... Short-pull dual-piston mechanical disc brakes, in no particular order (surely there are others):
- Tektro - MD-C550
- State Bicycle Co. - All-Road Disc Brake Caliper (Mechanical)
- Promax - Decode R (DB21-0DSK718R-BK)
- Clarks - CMD-22 DUAL PISTON
- Origin8 - Vise II PM Mechanical Disc Brake
11-11-22, 05:03 PM
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I've worn through the stock pads on my TRP Spyres, on another set now, and I have to say - I like these brakes but they are definitely getting compressionless housing at some point
11-12-22, 05:01 AM
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A friend of mine has installed shimano XT780 disc brakes on his surly gravel bike, he told me that it was a very noticable upgrade compared to the hayes he installed has before. Another friend who I rode with on a trail ride recently had shimano GRX disc brakes as OEM equipment on his independant fabrication gravel bike, very smooth and efficient braking. Depends of your budget, but I would go with XT780 disc brakes,very reliable and durable.
12-02-22, 12:06 AM
#49
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I ride with Paul Klampers and like them. Prior I had BB7 and they were easier to get adjusted but less stopping power.
I'm kinda interested in the Yokazuna brakes that I've heard people liking. A hybrid mechanical but with a hydraulic reservoir at the caliper. Seems like a cool ideer?
I'm kinda interested in the Yokazuna brakes that I've heard people liking. A hybrid mechanical but with a hydraulic reservoir at the caliper. Seems like a cool ideer?
12-02-22, 06:31 PM
#50
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I had juintech f1 brakes, which are the Yokazuna brakes, along with compression less housing. I used them for 1 year and they were fine. Not great, but they stopped me. Canti brakes stop me too, for what that's worth.
I sold the juintech for almost what I paid for them and bought hydraulic 105 brakes. They are more difficult to set up, obviously, but work fine. Not great, but they stop me.
Maybe I have low standards? I just need brakes to stop me so that's a pretty easy bar to clear.
Or maybe I still need to try some magical brakes that exist and I don't know about?
I'm fine with my 105 hydraulics for the next X years. The levers are comfortable and pads are easy to change.
I won't think about brakes again until someone comes out with a brake that has more rotor clearance. That will be the next big thing to get me to care.
I sold the juintech for almost what I paid for them and bought hydraulic 105 brakes. They are more difficult to set up, obviously, but work fine. Not great, but they stop me.
Maybe I have low standards? I just need brakes to stop me so that's a pretty easy bar to clear.
Or maybe I still need to try some magical brakes that exist and I don't know about?
I'm fine with my 105 hydraulics for the next X years. The levers are comfortable and pads are easy to change.
I won't think about brakes again until someone comes out with a brake that has more rotor clearance. That will be the next big thing to get me to care.
