Looking to buy a new gravel bike. Sizing confusion help
06-07-23, 01:17 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Looking to buy a new gravel bike. Sizing confusion help
I've been riding a 56cm Trek Checkpoint ALR5 for 5 years now and ready to upgrade. I'm a guy who's 6foot (183cm) tall and has an cycling inseam of 80cm. I'm looking to buy a few different brands but they have this sizing system of S,M,L, etc. I'm right in between a M and a L for the bikes/brands I'm looking into. Just not sure which size to buy; and I'm gonna spend a shxtload, around 5 grand on a new bike. Is a M gonna be too small for me? Well, I guess this totally depends on which brand I end up buying. Hmm
BTW, i will get fitted to this new bike as I did for my Trek years ago.
BTW, i will get fitted to this new bike as I did for my Trek years ago.
Last edited by eaglesandcycling; 06-08-23 at 12:51 AM.
06-07-23, 01:40 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,255
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6499 Post(s)
Liked 10,142 Times
in
4,345 Posts
I've been riding a 56cm Trek Checkpoint ALR5 for 5 years now and ready to upgrade. I'm a guy who's 6foot (183cm) tall and has an inseam of 80cm. I'm looking to buy a few different brands but they have this sizing system of S,M,L, etc. I'm right in between a M and a L for the bikes/brands I'm looking into. Just not sure which size to buy; and I'm gonna spend a shxtload, around 5 grand on a new bike. Is a M gonna be too small for me? Well, I guess this totally depends on which brand I end up buying. Hmm
BTW, i will get fitted to this new bike as I did for my Trek years ago.
BTW, i will get fitted to this new bike as I did for my Trek years ago.
Where's the problem?
06-07-23, 01:44 PM
#3
Habitual User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Altadena, CA
Posts: 6,657
Bikes: 2019 Trek Procliber 9.9 SL, 2018 Storck Fascenario.3 Platinum, 2017 Bear Big Rock 1, 2003 Time VX Special Pro, 2001 Colnago VIP, 1999 Trek 9900 singlespeed, 1977 Nishiki ONP
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4060 Post(s)
Liked 6,514 Times
in
3,096 Posts
I'm 5'-9" and ride a 53-54. In S/M/L designations, I'm pretty consistently a M. My best guess is that L will probably be the best size for you, but with the amount of money you're spending taking the step to get properly fitted is a good plan.
__________________
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
06-07-23, 03:41 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I appreciate your input, thanks!
06-07-23, 03:41 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
06-07-23, 07:28 PM
#6
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 2,976
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1525 Post(s)
Liked 1,111 Times
in
788 Posts
I've been riding a 56cm Trek Checkpoint ALR5 for 5 years now and ready to upgrade. I'm a guy who's 6foot (183cm) tall and has an inseam of 80cm. I'm looking to buy a few different brands but they have this sizing system of S,M,L, etc. I'm right in between a M and a L for the bikes/brands I'm looking into. Just not sure which size to buy; and I'm gonna spend a shxtload, around 5 grand on a new bike. Is a M gonna be too small for me? Well, I guess this totally depends on which brand I end up buying. Hmm
BTW, i will get fitted to this new bike as I did for my Trek years ago.
BTW, i will get fitted to this new bike as I did for my Trek years ago.
When I bought my gravel bike, I found this explanation by Santa Cruz very helpful:
Body Dimension
Not all bodies at a given height are the same. If you have longer legs and a shorter torso than the average person your height, that may push you towards the smaller of the recommended sizes. If you're all torso and arms, most likely you'll want to size up.
Lastly, the height-based size guide is just an approximation. You do not need that as you already have a bike which you have ridden for 5 years. Does it fit you reasonably well? If yes, you can start by comparing the respective geometry numbers of your existing bike and your target bike. Then you can also consider, for example: (1) how your fit has evolved over the course of the 5 years riding your existing bike; (2) existing cockpit setup, e.g., stem length and angle, headset spacers needed, seat post setback, saddle rail clamping spot, etc.; and (3) whether you would like to go a bit lower, higher, more or less stretched out, etc.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 06-08-23 at 01:28 AM.
06-07-23, 07:48 PM
#7
ignominious poltroon
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 3,423
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1919 Post(s)
Liked 2,869 Times
in
1,523 Posts
This website can help: https://geometrygeeks.bike
Likes For Polaris OBark:
06-07-23, 08:38 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,255
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6499 Post(s)
Liked 10,142 Times
in
4,345 Posts
If your Trek fits well, look up the geometry specs. For the new bike, try to get a close match for the Stack, Reach, and Effective Top Tube numbers. Small tweaks can be accomplished by changing stem length and angle.
Likes For Koyote:
06-08-23, 12:47 AM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
First, is that your pants inseam or your actual cycling inseam? I am guessing the former?
When I bought my gravel bike, I found this explanation by Santa Cruz very helpful:
Body Dimension
Not all bodies at a given height are the same. If you have longer legs and a shorter torso than the average person your height, that may push you towards the smaller of the recommended sizes. If you're all torso and arms, most likely you'll want to size up.
Lastly, the height-based size guide is just an approximation. You do not need that as you already have a bike which you have ridden for 5 years. Does it fit you reasonably well? If yes, you can start by comparing the respective geometry numbers of your existing bike and your target bike. Then you can also consider, for example: (1) how your fit has evolved over the course of the 5 years riding your existing bike; (2) existing cockpit setup, e.g., stem length and angle, headset spacers needed, seat post setback, saddle rail clamping spot, etc.; and (3) whether you would like to go a bit lower, higher, more or less stretched out, etc.
When I bought my gravel bike, I found this explanation by Santa Cruz very helpful:
Body Dimension
Not all bodies at a given height are the same. If you have longer legs and a shorter torso than the average person your height, that may push you towards the smaller of the recommended sizes. If you're all torso and arms, most likely you'll want to size up.
Lastly, the height-based size guide is just an approximation. You do not need that as you already have a bike which you have ridden for 5 years. Does it fit you reasonably well? If yes, you can start by comparing the respective geometry numbers of your existing bike and your target bike. Then you can also consider, for example: (1) how your fit has evolved over the course of the 5 years riding your existing bike; (2) existing cockpit setup, e.g., stem length and angle, headset spacers needed, seat post setback, saddle rail clamping spot, etc.; and (3) whether you would like to go a bit lower, higher, more or less stretched out, etc.
that figure is my cycling inseam... thanks for all of the input here, helpful!
06-08-23, 01:33 AM
#10
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 2,976
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1525 Post(s)
Liked 1,111 Times
in
788 Posts
Hmm ... an 80 cm inseam seems kind of short for someone who is 6 feet tall. The advice from Santa Cruz would suggest that you take the larger of the two sizes you are in between.
Good luck shopping. Which gravel bikes are you looking at?
Good luck shopping. Which gravel bikes are you looking at?
06-08-23, 02:19 AM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
06-08-23, 06:43 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,255
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6499 Post(s)
Liked 10,142 Times
in
4,345 Posts
I have not heard of Pearson… But at least here in the US, the Lauf gravel bike options are absolutely screaming deals. The prices are extremely reasonable for the quality and build kits. And again – here in the US at least — the return privilege should pretty much eliminate any worries you have about sizing.
Likes For Koyote:
06-08-23, 01:14 PM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I have not heard of Pearson… But at least here in the US, the Lauf gravel bike options are absolutely screaming deals. The prices are extremely reasonable for the quality and build kits. And again – here in the US at least — the return privilege should pretty much eliminate any worries you have about sizing.
06-08-23, 04:05 PM
#14
Newbie
06-09-23, 03:48 PM
#15
Senior Member
In general I prefer a bike that is slightly too large to one that is slightly too small. I found a number of local bike shops that rented "demo" bikes for a day. Not a cheap rental but it gave me time to evaluate a couple bikes before buying one.
06-10-23, 10:12 AM
#16
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 2,976
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1525 Post(s)
Liked 1,111 Times
in
788 Posts
The 2019 model year is the earliest Trek Checkpoint ALR5 in Trek's archives: Checkpoint ALR 5 - Trek Bikes
The Lauf Seigla frame has a lower stack:reach ratio, and is longer and lower.
The Lauf Seigla frame has a lower stack:reach ratio, and is longer and lower.
06-10-23, 11:32 AM
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The 2019 model year is the earliest Trek Checkpoint ALR5 in Trek's archives: Checkpoint ALR 5 - Trek Bikes
The Lauf Seigla frame has a lower stack:reach ratio, and is longer and lower.
The Lauf Seigla frame has a lower stack:reach ratio, and is longer and lower.
so if my 56cm Trek fits me well I guess i should go with a Lauf Seigla Large, yah? then get a bike fit..
06-10-23, 11:48 AM
#18
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 2,976
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1525 Post(s)
Liked 1,111 Times
in
788 Posts
No. The 2019 model year would have been released in 2018, so if you had bought it new, then you would have ridden it for about 5 years.
Not necessarily. You have to (1) compare the geometry numbers between the two bikes, especially stack, reach, and effective top tube; (2) evaluate how your current bike is setup, e.g., seat post setback, stem length and angle, spacers under stem, etc.; and (3) consider whether your torso can go lower and longer and your arms can reach lower and further. Although the components under #2 can be changed (e.g., during a bike fit) to compensate for the lower stack:reach ratio of the Seigla and to arrive at close to the same fit between the two bikes (e.g., shorter stem, higher stem angle, more spacers under stem), the result could be ugly and might affect handling.
Not necessarily. You have to (1) compare the geometry numbers between the two bikes, especially stack, reach, and effective top tube; (2) evaluate how your current bike is setup, e.g., seat post setback, stem length and angle, spacers under stem, etc.; and (3) consider whether your torso can go lower and longer and your arms can reach lower and further. Although the components under #2 can be changed (e.g., during a bike fit) to compensate for the lower stack:reach ratio of the Seigla and to arrive at close to the same fit between the two bikes (e.g., shorter stem, higher stem angle, more spacers under stem), the result could be ugly and might affect handling.
06-10-23, 12:01 PM
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
No. The 2019 model year would have been released in 2018, so if you had bought it new, then you would have ridden it for about 5 years.
Not necessarily. You have to (1) compare the geometry numbers between the two bikes, especially stack, reach, and effective top tube; (2) evaluate how your current bike is setup, e.g., seat post setback, stem length and angle, spacers under stem, etc.; and (3) consider whether your torso can go lower and longer and your arms can reach lower and further. Although the components under #2 can be changed (e.g., during a bike fit) to compensate for the lower stack:reach ratio of the Seigla and to arrive at close to the same fit between the two bikes (e.g., shorter stem, higher stem angle, more spacers under stem), the result could be ugly and might affect handling.
Not necessarily. You have to (1) compare the geometry numbers between the two bikes, especially stack, reach, and effective top tube; (2) evaluate how your current bike is setup, e.g., seat post setback, stem length and angle, spacers under stem, etc.; and (3) consider whether your torso can go lower and longer and your arms can reach lower and further. Although the components under #2 can be changed (e.g., during a bike fit) to compensate for the lower stack:reach ratio of the Seigla and to arrive at close to the same fit between the two bikes (e.g., shorter stem, higher stem angle, more spacers under stem), the result could be ugly and might affect handling.
i really appreciate all of your feedback and help here.. im a total dumbass in all honesty with all of this fitting/sizing ****. and i really dont care to take the time to learn, in all honesty; i just LOVE riding simply.. but i guess i need to take some time to learn at least some of this..
thoughts on these 2 comparisons?:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/l...-5-2018-56-cm/
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/t...a-2022-medium/
06-10-23, 02:16 PM
#20
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 2,976
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1525 Post(s)
Liked 1,111 Times
in
788 Posts
i really appreciate all of your feedback and help here.. im a total dumbass in all honesty with all of this fitting/sizing ****. and i really dont care to take the time to learn, in all honesty; i just LOVE riding simply.. but i guess i need to take some time to learn at least some of this.
Also, only you and a competent bike fitter can figure out how your body would do on a lower and longer frame. So best to get a bike fit from a competent fitter, preferably one with experience with Lauf Seiglas.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 06-10-23 at 04:16 PM.
06-28-23, 11:17 AM
#22
Full Member
i really appreciate all of your feedback and help here.. im a total dumbass in all honesty with all of this fitting/sizing ****. and i really dont care to take the time to learn, in all honesty; i just LOVE riding simply.. but i guess i need to take some time to learn at least some of this..
thoughts on these 2 comparisons?:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/l...-5-2018-56-cm/
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/t...a-2022-medium/
thoughts on these 2 comparisons?:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/l...-5-2018-56-cm/
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/t...a-2022-medium/
I myself am 188cm and ride Giant Defy M/L with 120mm stem and this fits me very well and according to Giant chart, I should be on XL or at least L.
07-11-23, 06:28 PM
#24
Over the hill
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 24,183
Bikes: Giant Defy, Giant Revolt
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 922 Post(s)
Liked 1,060 Times
in
618 Posts
i really appreciate all of your feedback and help here.. im a total dumbass in all honesty with all of this fitting/sizing ****. and i really dont care to take the time to learn, in all honesty; i just LOVE riding simply.. but i guess i need to take some time to learn at least some of this..
__________________
It's like riding a bicycle
It's like riding a bicycle
