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New Lynskey Ti Gravel Build

Old 06-23-24, 04:39 AM
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I'm a Campagnolo man, right down to my tattoo, but that Shimano GRX 11 speed stuff is the business. The 31/48 crank paired with an 11-34 cassette covers just about everything.

Originally Posted by PromptCritical
Yeah, and other than bike specifics, Iím also learning that if I need or want to use a mill or lathe to make something work, Iím probably doing it wrongÖÖ

The Shimano hydraulic disc brakes are great. I have them on three bikes. Will put the dual piston versions on our tandem in a few weeks.

What are you using for a drivetrain?
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Old 06-23-24, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by PromptCritical
What are you using for a drivetrain?
I had purchased a 105 mechanical group set for a different bike and decided against the upgrade. So I am using that.

This bike will be used primarily on the road with the occasional trip onto dirt and the ever so rare trip onto mountain fire roads. The frame has allowances for Di2 so if I am happy with everything, I might put GRX Di2 on it in the future.

Waiting on in-line cable adjusters for the shifters. I think those are the last bits. When they get here, I will finish the cables and then last step will be the brakes, which are new to me.
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Old 06-23-24, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by nomadmax
I'm a Campagnolo man, right down to my tattoo, but that Shimano GRX 11 speed stuff is the business. The 31/48 crank paired with an 11-34 cassette covers just about everything.
Have you tried the Campy Ekar 13-speed system? I thinking about that and have a set of Campy carbon cranks to use.

I’m thinking about either the Ekar setup or a SRAM XDR system. I like their X-Ring gearing. The 10T cog let’s me get away with a 1X system.

The range provided by the Shimano 31/48 up front would work well too.
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Old 06-23-24, 11:38 AM
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I have not tried Ekar. I have nine bicycles, eight of them have Campagnolo, ranging from Syncro 7 speed downtube shifting, 10 speed ergo to current 12 speed mechanical/hydro. That GRX stuff works better than all of them. Personally, I think Campagnolo has reached the limit at 12 speed mechanical. Beyond that, I think it needs to be electric because the sprockets are so close together. IMO, a cable from the lever all the way back to the RD can't convey that kind of precision. You really have to fiddle with Campag 12 to keep it from singing the yagga dagga dagga misalignment song. Ekar 13 speed can't be any better.


Originally Posted by PromptCritical
Have you tried the Campy Ekar 13-speed system? I thinking about that and have a set of Campy carbon cranks to use.

I’m thinking about either the Ekar setup or a SRAM XDR system. I like their X-Ring gearing. The 10T cog let’s me get away with a 1X system.

The range provided by the Shimano 31/48 up front would work well too.
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Old 06-23-24, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nomadmax
I have not tried Ekar. I have nine bicycles, eight of them have Campagnolo, ranging from Syncro 7 speed downtube shifting, 10 speed ergo to current 12 speed mechanical/hydro. That GRX stuff works better than all of them. Personally, I think Campagnolo has reached the limit at 12 speed mechanical. Beyond that, I think it needs to be electric because the sprockets are so close together. IMO, a cable from the lever all the way back to the RD can't convey that kind of precision. You really have to fiddle with Campag 12 to keep it from singing the yagga dagga dagga misalignment song. Ekar 13 speed can't be any better.
I rode a Canyon with a GRX Groupset last month and it was pretty sweet. I'd love to do a Campy mechanical, but I agree with you about the cable to the RD, so it probably would be better to go in another direction for a 1x12 or 2x12.
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Old 06-27-24, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
Good info. I believe there was recently another thread, perhaps from the same OP (edited to add: found it here), in which people were wondering why Lynskey sells ti frames at prices much lower than the premium (Seven, IF, etc) builders. I recall some posters asserted that the cheaper frames were just as good as the boutique-brand frames. Now we know how Lynskey does it --shoddy construction quality.

Not addressed in your post, but another thing to consider: when I bought a custom steel frame, I got it from a very well-established and reputable frame builder, and got it through a shop that worked with the builder -- and the shop considered themselves the final step in the QC process. They routinely checked alignment and other details of EVERY custom frame that came through their door, and sent back anything substandard. My frame went back to the builder twice before the paint job met the shop's standard. (I only saw the first flaw, and it was tiny -- I never would've noticed it if the shop hadn't pointed it out to me.) If you're buying direct-to-consumer (e.g., Lynskey), you miss that level of representation.
My thought process is that @ $950, even if the frame isn't top tier, the frame is not the largest cost in the build, so it can be replaced. This is my first gravel build (and Ti frame) and it is highly likely I'll ultimately need a custom frame. This is a very cost effective way for me to see exactly what I want. Having a custom frame built without having specific experience with the desired end result would be foolish. Besides, TiDave offers frame-building classes, and I'm going to take the next one and build my own frame, so I really need to have a starting point.
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Old 06-27-24, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by PromptCritical
My thought process is that @ $950, even if the frame isn't top tier, the frame is not the largest cost in the build, so it can be replaced. This is my first gravel build (and Ti frame) and it is highly likely I'll ultimately need a custom frame. This is a very cost effective way for me to see exactly what I want. Having a custom frame built without having specific experience with the desired end result would be foolish. Besides, TiDave offers frame-building classes, and I'm going to take the next one and build my own frame, so I really need to have a starting point.
Given all of the bikes listed in your profile, how on Earth can you NOT know what you want in a frame?
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Old 06-28-24, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
Given all of the bikes listed in your profile, how on Earth can you NOT know what you want in a frame?
How is this response even remotely helpful? Go back to Facebook or Twitter with these comments.
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Old 06-28-24, 03:26 PM
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Woot! Woot!

UPS has my frame! Delivery date is July 5th!
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Old 06-30-24, 04:13 PM
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Most build parts are here waiting for the frame to arrive!



e*thirteen XCX Rear wheel (closed deck rim)

Fulcrum WIND 42 front wheel (closed deck rim)


Columbus carbon fork


SRAM HRD grifters and calipers

Campy carbon crank

Carbon seatpost

Lauf carbon fiber bars
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Old 07-02-24, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric F
1078g for gravel wheels?? Wow. 😮
The BTLOS rim arrived yesterday (after 5 weeks ). Time to lace it up with a Rolf hub!
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Old 07-02-24, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by nomadmax
I'm a Campagnolo man, right down to my tattoo, but that Shimano GRX 11 speed stuff is the business. The 31/48 crank paired with an 11-34 cassette covers just about everything.
So, I'm considering a GRX crankset. I can find the crank arms and bottom bracket threaded shell, but not the spindle. Does the spindle come with either the cranks or bottom bracket? I have a MTB crank with a hollowtech crank and an ultegra road crank with an Octalink bottom bracket and they are both pressed in, so I'm not clear on the GRX.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-02-24, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by PromptCritical
So, I'm considering a GRX crankset. I can find the crank arms and bottom bracket threaded shell, but not the spindle. Does the spindle come with either the cranks or bottom bracket? I have a MTB crank with a hollowtech crank and an ultegra road crank with an Octalink bottom bracket and they are both pressed in, so I'm not clear on the GRX.

Thanks in advance.
Could be wrong, but Iím pretty sure the spindle is attached to the drive side cranks. Most photos donít show it though
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Old 07-02-24, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by justin1138
Could be wrong, but Iím pretty sure the spindle is attached to the drive side cranks. Most photos donít show it though
This is correct for current Shimano cranks.
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Old 07-02-24, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric F
This is correct for current Shimano cranks.
Are there any material differences between the 600 & 810 (11-speed) and the 610 and 820 (12-speed) series cranksets?
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Old 07-02-24, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by PromptCritical
Are there any material differences between the 600 & 810 (11-speed) and the 610 and 820 (12-speed) series cranksets?
It is my understanding that the cranks are unchanged. I could be wrong.
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Old 07-02-24, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric F
It is my understanding that the cranks are unchanged. I could be wrong.
Thanks!
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Old 07-02-24, 12:41 PM
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Whatís wrong with those Campy cranks? They look pretty nice from here
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Old 07-02-24, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by justin1138
Whatís wrong with those Campy cranks? They look pretty nice from here
My old legs may not like pushing a 40T gear.......
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Old 07-02-24, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PromptCritical
My old legs may not like pushing a 40T gear.......
You know replacement chainrings can be found pretty easily, right?
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Old 07-02-24, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric F
You know replacement chainrings can be found pretty easily, right?
I've heard that before, but the BCD limits them in size to 39T (40T since narrow-wide-narrow requires an even number of teeth). I wanted to use one of my Campy track cranks, but that would require a 46T chainwheel. Back in the Jurassic Age, I could push a 42-18 in the foothills of LA (Ride from Montrose, ride with the Rose Bowl crowd and ride home), but those days are gone.
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Old 07-02-24, 03:57 PM
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Smart to go with GRX instead of the Campy mismash. I was shopping for one last week and wondered about the 11 vs 12 speed. I decided to be safe and went with 11 speed but actually saw some better prices for 12 speed. Also better availability. I went with the mid level BBR60 bottom bracket, they are inexpensive. You won't have to worry about chainline.
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Old 07-02-24, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PromptCritical
Thanks!
were you referring to difference between 11 speed vs 12 speed cranks - or difference between 600 series vs 800 series ?

800 series are better quality cranks and weigh less

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Old 07-02-24, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by t2p
were you referring to difference between 11 speed vs 12 speed cranks - or difference between 600 series vs 800 series ?

800 series are better quality cranks and weigh less
Are the 800 series bonded like the ones that are subject to the recall?

What is the difference between 11 & 12 speed cranks? Width of chainrings?
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Old 07-02-24, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
Smart to go with GRX instead of the Campy mismash. I was shopping for one last week and wondered about the 11 vs 12 speed. I decided to be safe and went with 11 speed but actually saw some better prices for 12 speed. Also better availability. I went with the mid level BBR60 bottom bracket, they are inexpensive. You won't have to worry about chainline.
I suppose I should give up my nostalgia for the days of square taper cranks and general compatibility someday.......Right now, the crank is the least of my worries as I also have several Shimano cranks and BB in my stash. My biggest concern is whether I'm going to be able to make the SRAM AXS Rival DR and HRD brifters play nice.
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