Trek X-01 facelift - opinions please
 

I'm giving my 2yr old Trek X-01 a facelift... I love the frame, so it's staying, as is the group (shimano 105 9spd) because it's performed flawlessly in 2yrs of getting beat up. I'm ditching the handlebars, crankset, wheels, stem, seatpost, headset, possibly the fork. They're almost all bontrager select stock parts. 2yrs is good for me, time to upgrade. I have a bunch of parts laying around and some parts I'm taking from my fixed gear which is just too small for me, and personally, I've discovered that I love shifting :) (I gave it a shot - c'est la vie)

Here's what's going to go on it (and please feel free to point out anything that sounds like a bad idea :) ):

- Ultegra BB (outboard bearing)
- Shimano R700 compact crank (50/34)
- Thomson elite seatpost
- 3T Mutant stem
- Nitto noodle bars (these things are soooo comfy)
- CK nothreadset
- Fork may or may not stay, depends on the cash flow when I get done with this (knowing me, it'll be gone). It's an Alu kinesis stock frame. Was thinking of going carbon. Budget would be around $250-300 max. Ideas?
- Velocity Deep V's laced to most likely Ultegra hubs. Any other suggestions for the hubs (trying to keep the cost at a minimum)? I have the rims, just need to relace them onto different hubs. Also, the rims are non-machined. Velocity had said you can run brakes on them no problem since they're anodized, but I've sent them an email to confirm this. I was thinking maybe different brake pads... my concern is wet/muddy conditions and non-machined rims equalling a disaster.

I think that's about it. It'll be done probably by the end of cross season as I'm off to the orthopedic surgeon in october for another procedure on my Ti wrist... so no cross season for grahny... might as well rebuild the bike :D It won't be the lightest build that's for sure, but I think it'll be a solid ride.

I currently run a compact double 50/34 on my cross bike, which I also use as my road bike. The advantage, of course, is the wide gear range without having to use a triple. But the big difference between the two rings, a ratio of 1.47, is a big jump and complicates shifting between them. Compare, for example, with a standard road 53/39 (1.36) or a "cyclocross" 46/36 (1.28). When racing starts, I'm switching to a single 42.

There are some very steep hills where I live, so I like the compact double, but I just want to make this point.

What size noodle bar are you planning on getting? I noticed when I searched for it, there are like 5 sizes. blah!

Well, I have a bar that's a 42... however the hoods would be 40cm apart c-c as the drops flare out slightly which make them 42 c-c. 40 is pretty narrow... I may pick up a size 44.

After you brake enough times, your rims will be "machined".

Nashbar's carbon cross fork is only $89 right now with free shipping. Allegedly, it's identical to a Winwood. I've got one (uninstalled) and it's pretty. That's my 2 cents. Never ridden on carbon before. But soon...

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Forks

love my noodles, good choice.

and if they're anodized you're fine. they'll wear away where the pad hits but braking performance shouldn't suffer hardly at all. powdercoat is worse, but your brakes will still work.

everyting else sounds real nice.

too bad about racing season, but i hope the surgery goes well and you get to enjoy some riding when you heal up.

I plan on being a bike builder, but I've got a lot to learn. I have some tricks up my sleeve to make a smaller, stiffer, lighweight frame using some "exotic" combinations of materials. Also I'm a huge fan of anodizing and coloring stuff using it - no paint and the metal is durable to weather afterwards.

I'm weird.