Road racing on a cyclocross bike?
09-23-07, 10:05 AM
#26
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honestly, i think the main reason not to ride a properly specced cross bike on the road is that they look less cool/appropriate (just like tight clothes and shaved legs), and more "fred" than your buddies on road specific frames.
If i were to only have one bike for cross racing and road racing (crits and RR's) i'd get the nicest aluminum cross frame i could afford. A 12-25 cassette should be versatile enough for crits/ RR's and an 12-28 should treat you well for cross if you only use the 39t chainring. Brifters are a must and some headset spacers so you can get a bit less aero for cross season. Use the stock wheels for cross and get a cheapish/lightish set of road wheels (neuvations?) with nice rubber (700x23) racing tires. this way when cross season is over, you will have a nice, light set of road wheels to race on and you can train on the crapped up cross wheelset (with some heavier but smooth tires). But you already mentioned the 2 wheelset thing, so I digress.
I'd reconsider the "buying two frames" approach. It seems like a good idea, but practically it may be a bit unrealistic.
I'm a bike mechanic and changing over parts from one bike to another is not a simple/short process even for someone who's done it a bunch.
Also, if you end up loving your road bike, you'll likely hate disassembling it come september and find yourself wishing you had it around.
As far as brakes go: the best brakes i have are the tektro mini-V brakes on my cross bike. Stop on a dime and are easy to set up. better than the dura-ace calipers on the road bike. YMMV.
the wheels are the big thing, get 2 sets, save the nice wheels for the road/races.
one last thing to consider: buy the road bike and find a used cross/touring/mountain bike to ride cross on.
good luck!
If i were to only have one bike for cross racing and road racing (crits and RR's) i'd get the nicest aluminum cross frame i could afford. A 12-25 cassette should be versatile enough for crits/ RR's and an 12-28 should treat you well for cross if you only use the 39t chainring. Brifters are a must and some headset spacers so you can get a bit less aero for cross season. Use the stock wheels for cross and get a cheapish/lightish set of road wheels (neuvations?) with nice rubber (700x23) racing tires. this way when cross season is over, you will have a nice, light set of road wheels to race on and you can train on the crapped up cross wheelset (with some heavier but smooth tires). But you already mentioned the 2 wheelset thing, so I digress.
I'd reconsider the "buying two frames" approach. It seems like a good idea, but practically it may be a bit unrealistic.
I'm a bike mechanic and changing over parts from one bike to another is not a simple/short process even for someone who's done it a bunch.
Also, if you end up loving your road bike, you'll likely hate disassembling it come september and find yourself wishing you had it around.
As far as brakes go: the best brakes i have are the tektro mini-V brakes on my cross bike. Stop on a dime and are easy to set up. better than the dura-ace calipers on the road bike. YMMV.
the wheels are the big thing, get 2 sets, save the nice wheels for the road/races.
one last thing to consider: buy the road bike and find a used cross/touring/mountain bike to ride cross on.
good luck!
09-23-07, 12:26 PM
#27
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To help reiterate that you are fine on a cyclocross bike for road racing, I just competed in a triathlon today with my Jamis Nova, I added tribars, and slicks to the bike. I passed MANY, MANY people on it. However most of them swam over me in the ocean.
09-23-07, 01:52 PM
#28
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+1 on Tektro mini-V's; they work great with STI levers, no tavel agent needed, cost less than $20/pr retail.
The comments about braking in crits is a little over the top, agreed the 5 races are really squirrely [ it was 4 in the proverbial 'Day'] but stay up front to avoid the chaos, don't focus on the wheel ahead of you, look past the riders' hip to anticipate developments, and represent the crossers, dude!
I just built up a Redline Conquest and it def. accelerates as well as most racers with appropriate 23mm tires & wheels... I haven't ridden my road bike since Tuesday, when the Conquest arrived. Awesome frameset for the price.
The comments about braking in crits is a little over the top, agreed the 5 races are really squirrely [ it was 4 in the proverbial 'Day'] but stay up front to avoid the chaos, don't focus on the wheel ahead of you, look past the riders' hip to anticipate developments, and represent the crossers, dude!
I just built up a Redline Conquest and it def. accelerates as well as most racers with appropriate 23mm tires & wheels... I haven't ridden my road bike since Tuesday, when the Conquest arrived. Awesome frameset for the price.
09-23-07, 02:13 PM
#29
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Is there an advantage to buying an aluminum cross bike with some carbon in the rear triangle? Would this help with acceleration?
I'm considering a Jamis Nova Pro for 'cross and road. My LBS is going to have the 08 Jamis bikes in about two weeks.
Otherwise, any reccomendations on 'cross bikes that would do well in road? I realy liked the handling of the JTS, but I don't want something with too relaxed geometry. For some reason I have trouble processing numbers on a chart. All the angles and such blur together in my mind.
I'm considering a Jamis Nova Pro for 'cross and road. My LBS is going to have the 08 Jamis bikes in about two weeks.
Otherwise, any reccomendations on 'cross bikes that would do well in road? I realy liked the handling of the JTS, but I don't want something with too relaxed geometry. For some reason I have trouble processing numbers on a chart. All the angles and such blur together in my mind.
09-23-07, 02:28 PM
#30
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Well, the carbon seatstays are intended to absorb shock and give a more forgiving ride on bumps. Wishbone shaped seatstays do the same thing to a lesser extent, imo.
Another plus to a cx frame is the higher bottom bracket, allowing you to pedal deeper into criterium. turns without striking the pedals. Higher bb usually also gives quicker steering allowing you to change lines in a turn more easily... at least that is the impression I got from riding a Redline Conquest frame, as compared to my Soma Smoothie racing bike. Btw please practice the pedalling and cornering a Lot, before you try it in a mass start event!
Another plus to a cx frame is the higher bottom bracket, allowing you to pedal deeper into criterium. turns without striking the pedals. Higher bb usually also gives quicker steering allowing you to change lines in a turn more easily... at least that is the impression I got from riding a Redline Conquest frame, as compared to my Soma Smoothie racing bike. Btw please practice the pedalling and cornering a Lot, before you try it in a mass start event!
