black_box 

I'm a newb at this... looking for a quick, general purpose bike not an all-out racer. i just test rode an '08 fuji cross pro in a 49cm frame. It seemed like a reasonable fit for me (might need a longer stem). The 52cm frame (on a cross comp) i could just barely straddle, but i may try that one as well. They can order the cross comp in 49cm and its on sale for $900, which seemed really good for 105 components with an ultegra R/D. it has mounting holes for a rear rack, which I may want later. anyone else with experience on this bike?

do you need two sets of eyelets on the rear frame to handle both a rack and a mud guard or can they use the same mounts?

Also, I was in gym shoes on flat pedals and on low speed turns my shoes were hitting the front wheel. Would that go away with a clipless pedal? the bike doesnt come with pedals, so now i have to research those (i'd like something that can handle regular shoes and clipless).

has anyone had issues with the gearing (or something similar)? on paper, the 46/36 x 12-25 seemed a little narrow compared to other bikes.

andychang

my new conquest pro has 46/36 * 11-25. the first ring in the front has been utterly useless so far except for the few times that i climbed the sledding hill between mccormick and the museum campus. however, as you mentioned, since you're not wanting to go 28+ mph each time you're riding, i think that the big ring in the front is pretty sufficient. i haven't had any problems, concerns, or regrets with mine in the 45 miles or so that i've ridden it.

Heyduke

"do you need two sets of eyelets on the rear frame to handle both a rack and a mud guard or can they use the same mounts?"

You CAN use the same eyelets. Get a longer bolt, mount the rack on first, then the fenders.

telebianchi

I ride a 2003 Fuji Cross. I know the components have changed a bit over the years (mine is simply full 105) but the basic designs are very similar. In reply to some of your queiries:

I'm 5'8" and ride a 54" frame, size 43 shoes. Every once in a while while stopped with one foot on the ground, I'll end up turning the front wheel so that it can't turn back to straight without hitting my toe. But, this has never been a problem while actually riding...haven't even touched my shoe to tire. Clipless may or may not change things for you....it will just depend on where your foot is in relation to the pedal spindle.

Last summer I changed the 46/36 crank to a road compact 50/34 and find that much better for my riding. I kept the 12/27 rear cassette for the road but also have a second set of wheels with a 12/32 mountain cassette. The 50/34 gives you more high and low gears. The only downside is that the shift between the chain rings is not as smooth as with the 46/36 and you have to pay a bit more attention to where the chain is before shifting. If I were trying to CX race, I would absolutely use the 46/36. But for group rides, centuries, off road trails where I'm only competing with myself I think the 50/34 is better. That said, if you're buying a new bike I would say to just ride the 46/36 until you get to a point where you think that you would appreciate different chain rings. I kept the 46/36 for 4.5 seasons and only changed to be prepared for some hillier rides than I usually get to.