Notices
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like : "Unbound Gravel". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Best Bars for CX?

Old 06-23-08, 01:27 PM
  #1  
Slippery
Thread Starter
 
Urethane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO
Posts: 53

Bikes: 2013 Ridley Noah, 2011 Ridley X-Fire, 2008 Scott Addict R2, 2007 Scott Cross Comp, 2004 Stumpjumper M4 Pro HT, 1996 Salsa La Raza, 1990 Schwinn Predator

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Best Bars for CX?

Hi...I'm building up my first CX bike and was wonding which bars are best based on shape and materials...any specifics which are best, ie, aluminum vs. carbon, std (round) vs. wing?

I know it's a matter of what we're used to for the most part however aspects such as carbon's dampening vs. fragility I'm sure are a factor as no one enjoys snapping a bar mid-race even if it gives your hands a break.

Any experience/feedback would be most appreciated!
Urethane is offline  
Old 06-23-08, 02:55 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
meanwhile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,033
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've not tried these, but they have a cult following over here in the UK - On One Midge Bars:

https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=82928

https://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/ar...N=1788&SP=&v=1







As you can see, very different to regular drops. Riders here use them for mountain biking and single speed road bikes as well as cyclo. Control and shock absorption are said to be outstanding. I'm told they're quite like the design of the bars on early randeour bikes, when even a lot of the TDF took place on unpaved roads. I'm planning to put them on my Sirrus hack-bike, and then if I like them on the Cotic Roadrat or Uncle John I'm ordering later this year.
meanwhile is offline  
Old 06-23-08, 03:04 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The typical idea would be a flared and shallower bar. Idea being (I guess) that aerodynamics is relatively less important in cross vs road. The typical example is the Salsa Bell Lap bar:


I run a Salsa Short n Shallow bar, very similar but no flare, I am happy with it.
flargle is offline  
Old 06-23-08, 03:59 PM
  #4  
Perineal Pressurized
 
dobber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: In Ebritated
Posts: 6,555
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by meanwhile
As you can see, very different to regular drops. Riders here use them for mountain biking and single speed road bikes as well as cyclo. Control and shock absorption are said to be outstanding. I'm told they're quite like the design of the bars on early randeour bikes, when even a lot of the TDF took place on unpaved roads. I'm planning to put them on my Sirrus hack-bike, and then if I like them on the Cotic Roadrat or Uncle John I'm ordering later this year.
On-One Midge bars are fantastic, but the trick is to mount them up as high as possible, almost to the point that the drops are at a level equivalent to where you'd usually ride the flats.


__________________
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
dobber is offline  
Old 06-23-08, 08:43 PM
  #5  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a set of 44 cm Bell Laps as everyone I talked to loves them. I am racing though and find them too wide. I am planning to ride the same bars that are on my road bike this season. Traditional bend al. Ritchey WCS 42 cm bars. I hope i do not miss the flare of the Bell Laps.
california is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 05:20 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
meanwhile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,033
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dobber
On-One Midge bars are fantastic, but the trick is to mount them up as high as possible, almost to the point that the drops are at a level equivalent to where you'd usually ride the flats.
Yes. One of the things that seems to win people over is that riding in the drops becomes the dominant position, and it's incredibly secure and ergonomic, due to the flare built into the bars. Getting up on the hoods becomes the equivalent of using extensions on MTB bars - a very high leverage position for out of the seat sprinting, but not one you use for long. The other thing to say is that the flaring makes Midges very wide - about 54cm???
meanwhile is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 05:46 AM
  #7  
Don't smoke, Mike.
 
shapelike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,295

Bikes: Devinci Tosca, IRO Rob Roy

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I don't think the Bell Laps are actually all that shallow ... compare the drop w/ some other bars and they look pretty standard. This year I'm going to try out the FSA Wing Pro Shallows. Last year I used some of the Ritchey Pro Biomax II bars. Both of those are shallow bars w/ various funky shapes to make things more comfortable (in theory).
shapelike is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 06:48 AM
  #8  
antisocialite
 
dirtyphotons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,385
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
fwiw, i like regular old road drops. one size wider than on my road bike. it's very much a matter of preference.

my recommendation would be to find some cheapo bars and stems and experiement.

edit: also fwiw, i would not race with carbon bars. this is a really contentious topic and i really don't want to open up a carbon vs. no carbon debate, but for handlebars i don't see the reward (some vibration dampening and a few grams of weight) to outweigh the risks (more abrupt failure mode). plus i don't want to spring for a new pair of carbon bars every time i crash.

Last edited by dirtyphotons; 06-24-08 at 06:54 AM.
dirtyphotons is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 07:17 AM
  #9  
The mods changed this...
 
damocles1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,346
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bars are very personal. What works for one person may feel like crap to another. You rarely see wacky bar set-ups IN races.
When I'm putting a cross bike together for someone, I tell them to use the same bar as they do on their road bike. The biggest issue I had when going back and forth between the road and CX bikes was the difference in the bars. Same bars on both bike...no issue.
Some folks can't tell a difference though, and short reach/shallow drop CX bars work fine for them.

Get a bar that works for YOU!
damocles1 is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 11:04 AM
  #10  
Banned.
 
El Diablo Rojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ATX, Ex So Cal
Posts: 11,058

Bikes: Ridley Noah-Scott Addict-Orbea Ordu

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by damocles1
Bars are very personal. What works for one person may feel like crap to another. You rarely see wacky bar set-ups IN races.
When I'm putting a cross bike together for someone, I tell them to use the same bar as they do on their road bike. The biggest issue I had when going back and forth between the road and CX bikes was the difference in the bars. Same bars on both bike...no issue.
Some folks can't tell a difference though, and short reach/shallow drop CX bars work fine for them.

Get a bar that works for YOU!
damocles I just bought my first cross bike, I am setting it up with the same controls as my road bike but with less of a drop. Is this how you set yours up?
El Diablo Rojo is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 12:14 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by El Diablo Rojo
damocles I just bought my first cross bike, I am setting it up with the same controls as my road bike but with less of a drop. Is this how you set yours up?
Adam Myerson has some advice:
https://www.cycle-smart.com/coaching/...rossbike1.html
that can be distilled as (1) run the saddle anywhere from road bike height to 1cm lower and (2) flip the stem up.
flargle is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 01:10 PM
  #12  
4 letter tirade
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: 8 blocks west of the Sears Tower
Posts: 546

Bikes: Soon to be owner of a matching pair of Rock Lobster CX machines, Kelly Deluxe, Bianchi Commuter, Waterford R22

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
When I was building my bike up last summer I was debating changing bars and getting carbon ones. After looking into it a little deeper, I found I was going to pay 3 or 4 times more for a carbon bar that does not way any less than the aluminum bars i was already running. Racing for an hour, I wasn't worried a whole lot about any vibration issues, the race is going to hurt one way or another anyway. I'd personally stay away from winged bars, the awkward hand position, plus mud and wet conditions spells disaster in my mind if you need to use the tops of your bars for anything. I liked the little bit of flair in the bell laps because it made it easier for me to grab the end of the bars once the bike was on my shoulder....

just my opinion, I think most of what is said above from others is good advice
cardstock is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 06:34 PM
  #13  
Banned.
 
El Diablo Rojo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ATX, Ex So Cal
Posts: 11,058

Bikes: Ridley Noah-Scott Addict-Orbea Ordu

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by flargle
Adam Myerson has some advice:
https://www.cycle-smart.com/coaching/...rossbike1.html
that can be distilled as (1) run the saddle anywhere from road bike height to 1cm lower and (2) flip the stem up.
That's pretty much how I'm going. I'm going to leave the stem 'unflipped' as I will have 1.5cm more stack height. If that doesn't work then I'll flip it.
El Diablo Rojo is offline  
Old 06-24-08, 08:02 PM
  #14  
Slippery
Thread Starter
 
Urethane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO
Posts: 53

Bikes: 2013 Ridley Noah, 2011 Ridley X-Fire, 2008 Scott Addict R2, 2007 Scott Cross Comp, 2004 Stumpjumper M4 Pro HT, 1996 Salsa La Raza, 1990 Schwinn Predator

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Great advice...thanks everyone!

I'll post pics of it when completed.
Urethane is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.