SteveFromNY

I was playing with the idea of getting an inexpensive light wheelset and some 23s on and swapping them out for days I want to go a little faster. Is this setup essentially a roadbike? I logged in about 43 miles today and realized I can definitely be faster. Any recommendations for the wheelset and tires?

stevage

Err, there's already another thread on this. Jump on!

cs1

You mean the Tricross thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocross-gravelbiking-recreational/544790-anyone-else-ride-tricross-mostly-road.html

There's another on roadbikereview also: https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...14#post2184314

SteveFromNY

thanks!~

telebianchi

Good question....let me know if you figure out the answer.


I've never done more than 102 miles in a day on my Fuji Cross. Ran the original Ritchey wheels for 5 years and then got an OpenPro/Ultegra set. A couple different 700x23 and 700x25 tires but really like the Conti 4 Seasons because they just will not flat.

threeflys

My Las Cruces is my main bike for everything, so yes it'd totally do-able...

knobster

Sort of. It's geometry is different than a typical road bike and it's usually quite a bit sturdier as well. Things that are not generally sought after in a road bike, but is quite nice for a commuter/all-arounder. I love my cross bike and ride it frequently, but when I want speed, I take the road bike.

zerocool33

My Presidio is my first foray into cyclocross/roadbikes. I put some bontrager hardcase slicks, and man o man do I fly. And I'm a clyde on top of it. I was a little hesistant to buy a straight up road bike after I heard how tough the CX bikes were. In my heart I will always be a MTBer, but being able to put some fairly wide offroad tires on the Presidio is really nice. The slicks make the bike a lot more twitchy feeling to me, but that's coming from a guy who has ridden MTBs for the last 15 years. The gearing is probably way different than a road bike, but for as fast as my fat ass is going to go, I've only had two times down hills where I was topped out on gears and could've used more. We did a 20 mile ride the other day and I was coasting half the time opposed to my wife pedaling the entire time on her MTB. Goes to show how fast a CX can be. I don't think my geometry is that much different than some of the touring/plush bikes out there. Just my opinion on all of this stuff, but I haven't had the passion for biking in about 5-6 years like I do now. CX racing isn't in my future, but the ideology and style of that bike will be with me forever.

mhejl

My cross has almost entirely replaced my road frame (a Habby Ti) for most everything the MTB isn't used for, including centuries. I like the slightly more relaxed geometry, less twitchy steering, and multiple rolls it can fill. I can even throw a rack on it and carry stuff. If I had bought the cross frame before the road frame, I likely would have never bought the latter; I keep thinking of selling the road frame...

The Habby (and most others) cross frame geometry is very close to a Roubaix and the similar Trek, just with more tire clearance. I was looking for a more comfortable frame when the Roubaix and Trek came out but I picked the Habby cross frame for the added versatility (and I was done with CF frames by that time!). BB height really isn't an issue to me and, in fact, my cross BB is lower than the road.

So, I had a custom Habby Ti cross frame made (very minor changes) and built it up with full DA 10 triple. So, the gearing isn't necessarily any different than a road bike - just build it like you want. I built it this way for 98% road and some gravel trail riding. I swap between 3 wheelsets: 32c cross tires 13x27, 25c road tires 13x25 (both bulletproof DA hubs, O4 32 hole, 3x) and Easton Circuits with 23c 12x23 (normally on the road frame).


Only downside, IMHO, is the cantis. I had severe issues with fork shudder and tried all sorts of toe-in settings, different pads, many different cantis (IRD Kafams were the best), Vs and mini-Vs with and without travel agents, etc. Finally tossed the Ritchey WCS fork (junk!) and put on an Alpha Q and problem completely solved. I eventually upgraded the IRDs to Paul Touring cantis. Still, they're much more finicky to set up than road brakes.

[Why can't manufactures make long-pull brifters?!?]

KDGast

I put the Bontrager Race-Lite wheels from my 5.2 Madone on my Kona Jake along with some kevlar belted 700x32c tires and it has become my "go anywhere" road/city bike. Great fun and suprisingly fast.

thirdin77

There's always a thread on this topic in this forum.

The OP can get a 32-spoke wheel with lightweight road rims or a minimal spoke wheel like one of the Mavics.

If I wanted a second wheelset for my cross bike, I'd probably just get some Aksiums. Should be more aerodynamic than some OP/Ultegras which I actually do have on my road bike and while going downhill, they sure are noisy. Maybe not the most technical measure of aerodynamic resistance but it seems plain that they don't slice through the air very well.

SteveFromNY

I'm actually thinking about just getting a roadbike for the summer and use the cyclo for the winter. What do you guys think of a Cervelo Soloist as a first RB?

thirdin77

A cross bike for winter and a road bike for summer seems to be how I'm using my two bikes; I tended to ride my cross bike this past winter when it's been wet and windy and I've been riding the road bike now that it's been dry and calm.

So yeah .

In general, I think that expensive (IMO $2000+) road bikes aren't good as first road bikes because first time buyers don't yet know what they want in the geometry or material of the frame.

If I were you, I would buy a beginner road bike, something in the $800-1300 range, no more than $1500, if you're buying new. If you're buying used, it almost doesn't matter as you won't have to tolerate much depreciation if you decide you don't like the geometry.

SteveFromNY

just picked up a cervelo soloist team...damn this thing is light and fast.