Cantilever Decision: Shimano or IRD?
07-10-10, 04:00 PM
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Cantilever Decision: Shimano or IRD?
I am thinking of building up a cross-ish commuter bike with some parts I have laying around. However, I do not have any cantilever brakes and have never used them before.
After doing some research I am trying to decide between these two:
Shimano BR-R550:
IRD Cafam:
Any input or suggestions?
I like the look of the IRDs much more, but from pictures it looks as if the Shimano ones have a little nicer finish.
But what are the advantages/disadvantages of the two different designs?
After doing some research I am trying to decide between these two:
Shimano BR-R550:
IRD Cafam:
Any input or suggestions?
I like the look of the IRDs much more, but from pictures it looks as if the Shimano ones have a little nicer finish.
But what are the advantages/disadvantages of the two different designs?
07-10-10, 05:37 PM
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The first thing to understand about cantis is the effect of the 3 different lever arm geometries available. Read: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
07-10-10, 09:51 PM
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How about these? https://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A0860
07-11-10, 01:49 PM
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How about these? https://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A0860
07-11-10, 02:07 PM
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Tektro CR720, frog legs for less.
07-11-10, 06:18 PM
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Thanks for the replies so far everyone. The Sheldon article was immensely helpful, as always.
The TRPs are much too expensive for this project, but thanks for the link. I will check out the Tektros too, thanks!
The TRPs are much too expensive for this project, but thanks for the link. I will check out the Tektros too, thanks!
07-11-10, 07:02 PM
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07-11-10, 07:05 PM
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Tektro orynx are also fine canti's, don't stick out as much as the 720's (which can be a problem in the rear), and they're super cheap. I got 'em on 2 bikes.
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07-11-10, 11:33 PM
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I have Ird's on 2 of my cross bikes. Love them! One bike has a 720 in the front and CAFAM for the rear and my SS has both IRD's.
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I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
07-12-10, 07:30 AM
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Always an excellent point. You might want to look at
https://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html
-I have a set of Pedersens, but haven't had the nerve to fit them to anything.
https://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html
-I have a set of Pedersens, but haven't had the nerve to fit them to anything.
07-12-10, 07:32 AM
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Always an excellent point. You might want to look at
https://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html
-I have a set of Pedersens, but haven't had the nerve to fit them to anything.
https://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html
-I have a set of Pedersens, but haven't had the nerve to fit them to anything.
07-12-10, 07:03 PM
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Always an excellent point. You might want to look at
https://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html
-I have a set of Pedersens, but haven't had the nerve to fit them to anything.
https://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html
-I have a set of Pedersens, but haven't had the nerve to fit them to anything.
07-14-10, 12:20 AM
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Ive got a set of Scott-Petersen SE on my loaded touring bike , work quite well..
In the frame build shop happened to have bosses which have a ring around them like Saturn , the planet.
as friction is the way the core fits on the Boss, this works fine. there is no spring anchor,
the return spring is a coil in each caliper, hence the look, form follows function.
fussed over the setup with spacers from rear axles , and some star washers.
It, the bikes frame, is made of substantial material . Much heavier than most people will accept. but there is no winding up the frame tubes as you grab the brakes,
like happens with thinwall tubesets.
I can bring the loaded bike to a stop, down hills, from the Hoods of the Modolo Levers,
I use cable out the top sort.
In the frame build shop happened to have bosses which have a ring around them like Saturn , the planet.
as friction is the way the core fits on the Boss, this works fine. there is no spring anchor,
the return spring is a coil in each caliper, hence the look, form follows function.
fussed over the setup with spacers from rear axles , and some star washers.
It, the bikes frame, is made of substantial material . Much heavier than most people will accept. but there is no winding up the frame tubes as you grab the brakes,
like happens with thinwall tubesets.
I can bring the loaded bike to a stop, down hills, from the Hoods of the Modolo Levers,
I use cable out the top sort.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-14-10 at 12:31 AM.
07-14-10, 12:38 AM
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Other Bikes of mine with cantilevers, Modolo Cross Cantilevers , from the 80's,
and Mafac a Tandem/Criterium mix , from the 70's longer arms on the front ones, shorter on the rear.
and Mafac a Tandem/Criterium mix , from the 70's longer arms on the front ones, shorter on the rear.
07-14-10, 02:27 PM
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Unless you want to be able to stop. I had a set on my old Haro CXR; even with Kool-Stops, they were nearly useless. Plus, they were hard to center.
Right now, I'm running some wide-profile Kores that came off a new bike; I found them on eBay for like $20 or $30. They blow the Oryxes out of the water, plus they have serious mud-clearance. Maybe overkill for this build, but if the price is right...
Right now, I'm running some wide-profile Kores that came off a new bike; I found them on eBay for like $20 or $30. They blow the Oryxes out of the water, plus they have serious mud-clearance. Maybe overkill for this build, but if the price is right...
07-14-10, 03:07 PM
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Unless you want to be able to stop. I had a set on my old Haro CXR; even with Kool-Stops, they were nearly useless. Plus, they were hard to center.
Right now, I'm running some wide-profile Kores that came off a new bike; I found them on eBay for like $20 or $30. They blow the Oryxes out of the water, plus they have serious mud-clearance. Maybe overkill for this build, but if the price is right...
Right now, I'm running some wide-profile Kores that came off a new bike; I found them on eBay for like $20 or $30. They blow the Oryxes out of the water, plus they have serious mud-clearance. Maybe overkill for this build, but if the price is right...
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fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
07-14-10, 03:53 PM
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Everyone I know who's run them has had problems. Is your setup radically different from most? I can't imagine we're ALL doing it wrong.
Bear in mind, I say "nearly useless" in comparison to a dual-pivot road caliper with Kool-Stops and Nokon housing, which is what I run on my other bike. I know cantis are always weaker, but the difference was mind-blowing. I raced 2 seasons on Oryxes without dying, but I wouldn't recommend them to anyone who's building a bike up from scratch and has a choice (instead of getting them from an OEM).
Bear in mind, I say "nearly useless" in comparison to a dual-pivot road caliper with Kool-Stops and Nokon housing, which is what I run on my other bike. I know cantis are always weaker, but the difference was mind-blowing. I raced 2 seasons on Oryxes without dying, but I wouldn't recommend them to anyone who's building a bike up from scratch and has a choice (instead of getting them from an OEM).
