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V Brakes with new generation STI levers?

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V Brakes with new generation STI levers?

Old 01-17-12, 02:18 PM
  #26  
MileHighMark
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
My understanding is the the TRP 9's work best with the new (5700, 6700, 7900) Shimano gruppos and the 8.4's work best with the older groups. I don't know if 7700 has the same cable pull as 5600, 6600, etc. but I would guess that it does, so I think 8.4 is the best choice with that.
The newer groups have more cable pull, and are compatible with 90mm brake arms. The older levers work better with 85mm arms (as do Campy/SRAM). If you have the newer Shimano levers, and you want more pad clearance (or a "harder" feel at the lever), go with 85mm arms.
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Old 01-18-12, 12:58 PM
  #27  
MrPolak
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My personal experience of three brake systems based on actual usage in terms of braking power and set up:

1. V-brakes with travel agents. Currently on my wife's Cannondale T700. Work freaking great, period. I can't get past the travel agents to use them on my bike, so...
2. Mini-V brakes on my 2011 Specialized Tricross Sport. Work great, period. They have to be setup a bit close to the rim, so they don't pull back as far as full Vs or cantis.
3. Cantis. Oh, so beautiful, like little sculptures of alloy. Just sexy. Braking not so good, but workable. A big thumbs up on a vintage steel frame.
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Old 10-25-15, 11:14 PM
  #28  
Soundtallica
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Sorry to dig this thread up but... I've had a completely different experience with this setup than pretty much everybody else here. I'm running old XTR V-brakes (they have the 4-bar linkage to keep the pad parallel to the rim) that have 100mm long arms with Ultegra 6700 shifters and it's working brilliantly. One thing worth mentioning though is that you do have to run the pads close to the rim, I'd guess 2-3 mm. However, when I ran SRAM Rival shifters and 80mm mini V brakes before, the pads were just as close. The brake feel is extremely squishy and I can easily bottom the lever, but the brakes have so much power that if I did bottom the lever I'd be thrown off the bike. Pulling the lever a normal amount provides more than enough stopping power even if it feels like the pads haven't hit the rim yet. An unsettling feeling, but easy to get used to. That's helped by the fact that despite the long brake arms, modulation is excellent for some weird reason, even better than the mini V brakes I used. To top it off, because of the longer arms I can release the brake without the aid of an adjustable noodle, unlike mini V brakes.

I'm confused why it hasn't worked for anyone else. The only reason I can think of is that some V-brakes come with arms longer than 100mm and people are using those? Either way, I'm very happy with this setup. I can have it all: huge braking power, excellent modulation, lighter weight than discs, the ability to release the brakes without an adjustable noodle, and a buttload of clearance for both mud in CX races and fenders too!

Last edited by Soundtallica; 10-25-15 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 10-26-15, 10:34 AM
  #29  
IcySmooth52
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Originally Posted by Soundtallica View Post
To top it off, because of the longer arms I can release the brake without the aid of an adjustable noodle, unlike mini V brakes.

I'm confused why it hasn't worked for anyone else. The only reason I can think of is that some V-brakes come with arms longer than 100mm and people are using those? Either way, I'm very happy with this setup. I can have it all: huge braking power, excellent modulation, lighter weight than discs, the ability to release the brakes without an adjustable noodle, and a buttload of clearance for both mud in CX races and fenders too!
I've had this setup before on last generation 105s and Apex with stopping success, but I feel obliged to point out that this setup is the only time I've had a rim worn out on the brake track. I being even cleaned the pads and rims once a week! It happened within half a year of dry, wet, muddy, and snowy/icy conditions.
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Old 10-26-15, 10:52 AM
  #30  
Soundtallica
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Originally Posted by IcySmooth52 View Post
I feel obliged to point out that this setup is the only time I've had a rim worn out on the brake track.
Hmm. Do you think it's because the pads have to be run close to the rim? Either way, I live in Boulder, where there's little mud and snow/rain dry out fast, so I'm thinking that shouldn't be too much of a problem for me.
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Old 10-26-15, 11:02 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Soundtallica View Post
Hmm. Do you think it's because the pads have to be run close to the rim? Either way, I live in Boulder, where there's little mud and snow/rain dry out fast, so I'm thinking that shouldn't be too much of a problem for me.
It's because toeing in collects tiny things when the pads aren't all against the rims, and holds little things against the rim when braking. So setting the pads to be closer to the rims doesn't matter. Not uncommon to take tweezers and pull out little pieces from the pads. I was also intentionally riding in the worst conditions because it's fun.
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Old 02-04-16, 04:36 AM
  #32  
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It's an ancient thread but an everlasting question. So I did try SRAM Rivals with Tektro RX6. Before that I had Tektro CR720 Cantis. This is my experience:

- In the front the canti works perfectly with the SRAM brifter. I have a threadset (front) mounted hanger. The brake is both stiff, firm and powerful.
- In the rear the canti lacked the power to stop the wheel. I needed this much for more technical tracks.
- I replaced the canti with a RX6 mini-v brake. It's very powerful but the brifter (lever) has too little cable pull, there is very little clearance between the braking pads and the rim.

As a result I have the stopping power I needed with less modulation than required. It's a compromise I accept, I'm happy with this.

As for conclusions:
- Vbrakes in a road bike are a mistake. They have too much stopping power and too little modulation. With high speeds and a peloton this may result in accidents.
- Vbrake stopping power is great for technical tracks where riding is very dynamic and you have lots of sudden stops and accelerations (think of MTB style) and probably rough/sudden downhills
- Cantis have the modulation and power in the front, lack power in the rear, which is fine for grassy and muddy tracks where more dynamic braking would cause only undesired drifting, CX is more technical in terms of adjusting speed to terrain, cornering and bike handling. After all frequently heard advice for CX is to brake as little as possible.

But that's just my opinion, man.

Last edited by brothermouzon; 02-05-16 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 02-04-16, 08:05 AM
  #33  
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I run tektro bc3 mini V with SRAM brifters. Pads need to be close to the rim because of short pull, but they brake pretty well.

Thinking of getting something with a longer arm, mine are 85mm and the cable hardware drags on my fender
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Old 02-04-16, 11:48 AM
  #34  
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because decelerating un weights rear wheels rear brakes typically feel less effective than the front.
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