Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like :The Dirty Kanza". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Brakes!

Old 06-09-11, 01:23 PM
  #1  
SoulPuppy
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Brakes!

OK, my first bike was a mountain bike & now I have a Cross Bike. My mountain bike can stop on a dime, but I really have to work to get stopped on my cross bike. It takes quite a while to get stopped. My LBS said that's just how cantis work. They had me buy all new brakes & it's still is tough to stop. They tell me the brakes are working fine, but I feel like something must be wrong.

Is this normal? This is my first cross bike.
SoulPuppy is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 01:27 PM
  #2  
chibibike
Senior Member
 
chibibike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: VA
Posts: 192

Bikes: 2011 Trek Utopia

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
do you have your brake pads 1 or 2mm away from the rim? they should both be equal distance too. and when you pull the brake lever do you pull it all the way?
chibibike is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 01:29 PM
  #3  
chibibike
Senior Member
 
chibibike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: VA
Posts: 192

Bikes: 2011 Trek Utopia

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
and i think the front of the brake pad should be a little closer to the rim than the back end too.
chibibike is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 01:31 PM
  #4  
mgeoffriau
Senior Member
 
mgeoffriau's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 54
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Read through this sticky yet?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...lver-Brake-FAQ
mgeoffriau is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 01:50 PM
  #5  
SoulPuppy
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau View Post
Yeah. I don't know what to take from it, though. I'm being as aggressive as I can with it. It just seems dangerous. What if I need to stop fast? It's not going to happen.

I feel like I shouldn't have to add stuff to my brakes to get them to stop the bike. Am I wrong to think that?
SoulPuppy is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 01:55 PM
  #6  
mgeoffriau
Senior Member
 
mgeoffriau's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 54
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'd be more interested in the sections concerning the proper setup for cantilever brakes.

EDIT:

More information on proper adjustment:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html
mgeoffriau is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 02:24 PM
  #7  
RT
The Weird Beard
 
RT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: COS
Posts: 8,554
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Remove the new brakes they made you buy, get your money back, ditch your cantis and get mini V brakes. Superior in all ways, unless you are a traditionalist. Frankly, I'd rather stop better.
RT is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 04:09 PM
  #8  
Andy_K 
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 12,117

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 300 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1771 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 32 Posts
How far down the lever are you squeezing? In my experience, the difference between pulling a road brake lever from the hoods and pulling a MTB brake lever is much greater than the difference in braking power between V-brakes and cantis, even if the cantis aren't setup optimally (although it is possible to set up cantis really poorly).

When you pull the levers from the drops, grabbing the very tip, does that feel better? Do you have cross levers?
Andy_K is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 06:24 PM
  #9  
GrayJay
Senior Member
 
GrayJay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: EagleRiver AK
Posts: 1,234
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
T.L.I.- Post a picture showing the brakes and saddle cable geometery and it will be much easier to offer advice. Knowing what you are using for levers would also help too.
GrayJay is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 06:25 PM
  #10  
flargle
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RTDub View Post
Superior in all ways
Except for rim-to-pad clearance.
flargle is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 10:34 PM
  #11  
theextremist04
Señor Member
 
theextremist04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: FoCo, CO
Posts: 880

Bikes: CAAD10CAAD10CAAD10

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cantis are generally weaker than anything else...definitely weaker than road brakes. Setting them up is a pain...I'm excited because I finally got some power out of mine without squealing. There are a lot of factors- toe in, the pads you're using, straddle cable, where your cable stop is...just keep working with it.

And RTDub, now that mine work I wouldn't give them up for mini-Vs. Ever ridden in a muddy cross race? Cross bikes have cantis for a reason.
theextremist04 is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 10:40 PM
  #12  
Andy_K 
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 12,117

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 300 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1771 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 32 Posts
Originally Posted by theextremist04 View Post
And RTDub, now that mine work I wouldn't give them up for mini-Vs. Ever ridden in a muddy cross race? Cross bikes have cantis for a reason.
This is most certainly true. The thing is rim-to-pad clearance is inversely proportional to braking power. If the pad moves twice as far, it's squeezing half as hard. For a cross race, that's a great trade-off because you don't really want to stop anyway. For commuting and such, it sucks.
Andy_K is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 11:12 PM
  #13  
theextremist04
Señor Member
 
theextremist04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: FoCo, CO
Posts: 880

Bikes: CAAD10CAAD10CAAD10

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have no clue how, but I have a good couple of millimeters in the front and insane braking power. I felt so lucky.
theextremist04 is offline  
Old 06-10-11, 07:44 AM
  #14  
RT
The Weird Beard
 
RT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: COS
Posts: 8,554
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by flargle View Post
Except for rim-to-pad clearance.
Got me on that, but if your wheels are true, this is a non-issue. The difference is night and day.
RT is offline  
Old 06-10-11, 07:52 AM
  #15  
RT
The Weird Beard
 
RT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: COS
Posts: 8,554
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
This is most certainly true. The thing is rim-to-pad clearance is inversely proportional to braking power. If the pad moves twice as far, it's squeezing half as hard. For a cross race, that's a great trade-off because you don't really want to stop anyway. For commuting and such, it sucks.
Yup, truth. Sorry for the blanket statement, but there are trade-offs with all things, and I opt for stopping power over clearance. Rarely is it that muddy where it makes a huge difference.
RT is offline  
Old 06-10-11, 11:47 AM
  #16  
Andy_K 
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 12,117

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 300 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1771 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 32 Posts
Originally Posted by RTDub View Post
Yup, truth. Sorry for the blanket statement, but there are trade-offs with all things, and I opt for stopping power over clearance. Rarely is it that muddy where it makes a huge difference.


You need to visit Oregon for a Cross Crusade race. This is a typical post-race image:



Andy_K is offline  
Old 06-12-11, 02:42 AM
  #17  
cs1
Senior Member
 
cs1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Clev Oh
Posts: 6,960

Bikes: Specialized, Schwinn

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by RTDub View Post
Remove the new brakes they made you buy, get your money back, ditch your cantis and get mini V brakes. Superior in all ways, unless you are a traditionalist. Frankly, I'd rather stop better.
Not really the case, If you know how to set up cantilevers they're great. It seems to be a lost art today though. IMO find a new LBS. Good luck
cs1 is offline  
Old 06-12-11, 02:11 PM
  #18  
RT
The Weird Beard
 
RT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: COS
Posts: 8,554
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
Not really the case, If you know how to set up cantilevers they're great. It seems to be a lost art today though. IMO find a new LBS. Good luck
Really is the case for me. I have built plenty of bikes, and know how to adjust cantis. The stop of a V-brake instills me with more confidence than do cantis. As usual, personal preference. Cantis are more fussy and feel squishier than V's no matter how well I have them adjusted. Good thing I don't ride in knee-deep mud.

And +1 on finding a new LBS.

EDIT: Holy Crap, Andy.
RT is offline  
Old 06-14-11, 12:27 PM
  #19  
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 41,396

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 188 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6879 Post(s)
Liked 229 Times in 187 Posts
The older high profile Cantilevers made a comeback when Cross racing became popular..
the rim to pad clearance at 2mm for V and low profile cantilevers
sooner clogs up the gap and stops the wheel turning when the mud builds up.

Than lower leverage brakes, that close the gap quickly, so can rest with a bigger gap
between mud clearing braking sections.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 06-14-11, 01:10 PM
  #20  
cs1
Senior Member
 
cs1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Clev Oh
Posts: 6,960

Bikes: Specialized, Schwinn

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by RTDub View Post
And +1 on finding a new LBS.
Definitely

Originally Posted by RTDub View Post
EDIT: Holy Crap, Andy.
Nice comment.
cs1 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NewFuji
Mountain Biking
32
10-03-11 12:51 PM
calamarichris
Southern California
8
12-03-09 08:07 AM
vantassell
Road Cycling
0
03-16-07 11:36 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.