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Need Some 1x10 Advice

Old 09-25-12, 03:08 PM
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Need Some 1x10 Advice

I'm attempting to set up my Specialized Crux as a 1x10, partly because I never use the big ring and partly because it's time for new shifters and I'd rather buy just one.

Anyways I'm trying to figure out what my options are to keep the chain on the front chainring? The bike is a braze-on.
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Old 09-25-12, 03:27 PM
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You've got a lot of choices. Check out this link: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...hp?category=54

Generally, you can either (1) go with a bash guard in the big ring spot and something else to keep the chain from dropping on the inside, or you can (2) go with something that guides the chain on both sides.

I use option (1) with a BBG bash guard and a N Gear Chain Stop. The N Gear thing is about as cheap as you can go with this option, but it does the job if you set it up correctly. Other, nicer looking, options are available.

Within option (2) you can go really cheap by just using an old front derailleur with the limit screws set to hold the chain where you want it. Or you can get fancy with something like the Paul Chain Keeper. I even saw an article recently where some pro mechanic figured out that if you mount an N Gear Chain Stop upside down you can bend it a bit and get it to watch both sides of the chain.
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Old 09-25-12, 03:29 PM
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Here's the link I was looking for:

https://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...onships-24352/
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Old 09-25-12, 04:37 PM
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bear in mind the ideal chainline is putting the 1 chainring in the center,
but on a double crank , that is the space between the 2 chainrings,
so taking a triple and removing both the outer and 3rd (granny gear)
is a better aligned set up.
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Old 09-25-12, 04:50 PM
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I saw those two chain guides already, the thing is I'm not sure they would work as the bike has a braze-on FD and the seat tube is square..

I guess what I'm looking for is a braze-on chain guide.

Last edited by thisisbenji; 09-25-12 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 09-25-12, 05:22 PM
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I guess what I'm looking for is a braze-on chain guide.
the K Edge ones are made to go with braze on mounts..

https://www.acecosportgroup.com/shop/...n-catcher.html

this one has a ceiling to not let the chain hop off the teeth.
https://www.acecosportgroup.com/shop/...n-catcher.html

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-26-13 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 09-25-12, 07:05 PM
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Do you think it'll work okay in a cross race? I guess I can find out.
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Old 09-27-12, 10:25 AM
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Even though we are in the same state and I may end up racing you... :-)

I'd recommend these:

https://www.acecosportgroup.com/shop/...n-catcher.html

https://www.acecosportgroup.com/shop/...ing-guard.html

The K-Edge recommended above is a bad choice for a single ring application, because while it will keep you from fully dropping the chain, you won't have a front deraileur to get it back on the chainring. You would have to our it back in with your hand. With the products I noted, and have used the past two sessions, if you drop your vision it is solely because you don't have it set up correctly.

Hope this helps, are you doing any ChiCrossCup races this year?

Last edited by Orion12521; 09-27-12 at 10:27 AM. Reason: clarified a point
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Old 09-27-12, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
It's the last pic in the series.

Anyway, I have a Jump Stop on my MTB and on my 2x10 cross bike. Works fine after getting it dialed in. This and a BBG bashguard would be fine. Takes a little time to get the adjustment right on the Jump Stop.

I'm not sure I would want my chain "locked in" like it is with the Paul and MRP guides.

Having just used my 44 big ring for most of a flat race I don't think I'll be considering 1x10 for a while. Very minimal weight and $ savings.
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Old 09-27-12, 12:58 PM
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I run a single ring 44 front, 11-32 rear. Not for weight savings or cost, I found my hand position in the hoods resulted in inadvertently down shifting the front when portaging. Rarely used the small ring so I got rid of it. If the 32 isn't enough gear, it is too step for me to ride anyway. Not dropping my chain is a very nice benefit.
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Old 10-06-12, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K

I use option (1) with a BBG bash guard and a N Gear Chain Stop. The N Gear thing is about as cheap as you can go with this option, but it does the job if you set it up correctly.
My exact setup. Runs flawless. Plus the BBG guy, Erin is great.
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Old 11-26-13, 01:24 PM
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Over a year later, but now the answer is here - narrow-wide from raceface.
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Old 11-26-13, 02:18 PM
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Seems the narrow-wide thing has to synchronize with the chain,
wide only fits in the outer link space, which is wider.
narrow fits into the narrow space , between the inner, roller, link.

those max out at 38t,and only 104bcd 4 bolt Cranks , not Ultegra or 105..


I just run a Surly Stainless Chainring.. [its a tour/commuter , rider has aged past competitive]

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-26-13 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 11-26-13, 05:20 PM
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More options:

https://www.wolftoothcycling.com/collections/all
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Old 11-27-13, 10:35 AM
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so , wont bounce off on bumpy CX Race descents, just changing the chainring..?

[I see wolftooth does 38~44t 130bcd 5 bolt].
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Old 11-27-13, 01:28 PM
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Those narrow-wide chainrings looked interesting, until I read this on the Wolf Tooth site:

Note on mud: wide/narrow chainrings do no work well in heavy mud (Wolf Tooth or any other brand) if you plan to ride in very muddy conditions, we recommend a chainguide or chainkeeper and clutch-type rear derailleur! Without these precautions, you may experience chaindrops and/or chainsuck.
That pretty well kills it for me.
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Old 12-10-13, 01:51 PM
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I love my Wolftooth. Have yet to drop a chain. With a strong pulling derailleur like the Retroshift BURD this seems to be a winning combination. Trust me, my 1x10 was a dropchain disaster before the Wolftooth ring. Haven't ridden in mud, but have ridden in ice and snow without issue.
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