ModeratedUser

Hello all,

I see that Nashbar has free shipping on orders today and tomorrow (25th) and I'm looking to get the Nashbar X frame and Nashbar cyclocross fork. I've read about the clearance problems some people had on the bottom bracket and was wondering if there's anything else I should be aware of? What is the recommendations of avoiding this clearance problem? I plan on using a Shimano crank, haven't decided which yet, but I'm pretty sure it's going to be a compact with 175mm arms. I'll also be going with a L or XL frame. I'm 6'3", 245lb and ride a 61cm road bike. I'm assuming I'll be happier with an XL?

Any advice or any threads with riders that are using this setup?

I like the options available to me on this if I want to go that direction. This includes using disc brakes and setting this up for light touring with a rear rack. I'm more interested in building up a dependable bike as opposed to a lightening fast speed rocket.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Banzai

I've been riding this frame for 5 years now. Interestingly, it's the only frame I've ever won anything on. For all the money I've dumped into my nice road bike, only my Nashbar frame on "adventure races" and even one cross race has ever put me on the podium.

All of my comments on the cranks are for Shimano HTII two-piece cranks with a road outboard bearing bottom bracket. 170mm arms.

With a double, my right crankarm just clipped the chainstay under effort. Just enough to make a slight "ping" sound that took me a day to figure out. (On the stand it didn't do it...) I put a slim 1.5mm or 2mm spacer (can't remember right now) behind the right cup and it centered up perfectly.

A road triple (30-39-50) fits perfectly, like it was made for it.

I tried a MTB triple once, but couldn't get the road front mech to swing far enough for the 50mm chainline. That isn't a frame issue, but a mech issue. And you can't use a front MTB mech with road shifters.

This frame has been my do-it-all commuter/adventure racer/gravel grinder/beer fetching bike.

ModeratedUser

I'm interested in doing a 2x9 setup on this if I'm going with Nashbar. I want to use alot of my road stuff on my current road bike and upgrade the road bike. It sounds like I'm just going to get the frame and deal with it when I start installing everything. I'm a little confused on what you others are doing. Did you install these spacers on both sides or just one side? Seems like you should install them on both sides.

I called Nashbar and the guy was somewhat helpful. First I had to clue him in on the "clearance" problem. He stated that the solution followed by most was using a FSA cranks with a 46/36. The thing is that I have three double cranks already hanging and ready to use. Last I want to do is get another one! I'm just going to go with a compact 175mm double and go from there.

Can you give me an idea where to find the spacers? I read on a comments that I wouldn't find the spacers on Nashbar and it was a LBS item. I also read that some got a frame that had 135mm rear hub spacing. It's listed at 130mm spacing. So discs will be pretty far from anything I'm doing soon. Or a front disc and back mini-V brake. I'm pretty sure I'll just keep it mini-Vs on both wheels.

Banzai

Spacer behind the right cup centers the double. Without it, the right arm clips and the left does not. You do not want one behind both cups, and if you do more than one you won't have adequate connection for the left arm to hang onto the spindle.

Google search bottom bracket spacers. I'm too lazy to use the "let me google that for you" website right now. Spacers like that used to be a VERY common item for BB installation and correcting chain line.

I never had an issue with the chainring not clearing; I have an older frame with 135 spacing, and I assume that clearance issues would be worse with that than with a 130 spaced frame.

But you're right; disc options in 130 are very scarce. Don't know why they went to 130 on a disc capable frame. 135 was genius when they offered it; they had one of the only "road/cross" frames that could use the many fine MTB hubs out there.

ModeratedUser

OK I found info on what you are talking about.



This has spacers on both sides, but you are saying you just put them on one side. I ended up going with their X frame and carbon forks. Just got to hold tight for it to get to me now.

Thanks for your help Banzai. Much appreciated.

Banzai

I can't tell exactly what crank/BB that is from your pick, but of note Shimano MTB cranks come with 3 spacers. You arrange them based on your frame/BB shell configuration. That looks like one of the "standard" MTB setups; two on one side, one on the other. Whatever the config, Shimano MTB BBs MUST use all 3; if not, the spindle will extend too far, and you won't be able to snug down your left crank arm.

Shimano ROAD cranks come with zero spacers. They're really not supposed to require/use any shims whatsoever, but there's a tiny amount of wiggle room. I bought a shiny aluminum spacer somewhere, and it worked like a champ. Any more than that and I guarantee you will have problems clamping the left crank arm.

But yes, that picture is the idea...just not that kind of configuration with a road crank.

grolby

Crank clearance problems. Extremely slack (70.5 deg) head tube angle, so it isn't exactly nimble. More like a bus. I've owned this same frame and fork combo, so this isn't just a theory, the handling is pretty poor. Basically, this frame has issues. Yeah, it's extremely cheap... but you get what you pay for. On the plus side, the manufacturing quality seems fine for the price, good welds, the frame is straight, etc. But it's a badly designed bike. I can't recommend it.

Banzai

Meh.

Crank clearance isn't a big deal.

70.5 degrees on the headtube angle is considered "steep" or "quick" in the MTB world. Fairly standard for a 29er. Lots of cross bikes check in at 71 degree. I don't think it's that big of a deal.

ModeratedUser

Man that clearance really is tight! I tried three different Shimano cranks on the clearance and they all vary by 1mm or less. I have a temp on it and it's easy to squeeze the crank and chainstay together with one hand and get them to touch. The one planned for the bike has abit more room and just gona give that a try.

One thing I noticed on the build was the rack screws on the frame are at different heights.



Haven't really had a chance to ride the bike yet, just a mile or two, but it seems like a good build for the money. So far it looks like a 22.5 pound bike with pedals. Not too bad for a XL bike.