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Retroshift and cross top levers?

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Retroshift and cross top levers?

Old 07-16-13, 10:05 PM
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Retroshift and cross top levers?

Upon a few people's recommendations in another thread I just ordered a Retroshift CX kit for my Cross Check. I have been considering adding inline cross top levers at the same time. I've never had a bike with inline brakes and I'm not 100% certain on the set up so I am wondering if there is any reason the cross top levers won't work with the Retroshift kit?
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Old 07-16-13, 10:12 PM
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There is no reason that they shouldn't work.
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Old 07-16-13, 10:14 PM
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Thanks. And I guess I have a second question: do I need levers made specifically to be used as in line brakes or will any cross top lever do the trick?
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Old 07-17-13, 09:14 AM
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As far as I know there is only one type of inline lever. I think any will do the trick. Maybe others can add some more details on this.
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Old 07-17-13, 09:22 AM
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Shift cable has nothing to do with brake function..

There is a few brands, but they are of a type.. Paul's is unique that they can be set up to run

in between a V brake compatible lever and a long arm V Brake..

There are some variation on bar clamp diameter, to fit on the bulge in the handlebar.. center..
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Old 07-17-13, 10:01 AM
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Thanks. I just ordered some Tektro RL726. From my research it looks like they will do the trick
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Old 07-17-13, 05:05 PM
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I use the RL721 on my Cross Check and a Salsa Cowbell 3. They work great.

Here's a random pic:




More info about my build here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ross+check+105


Hope it helps -- good luck on the conversion!

// Zoxe
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Old 07-18-13, 11:34 AM
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Nice. A little detail to note: front cable housing is routed so it rubs on the lever clamp, not the handlebar. That is correct.
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Old 07-18-13, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoxe
I use the RL721 on my Cross Check and a Salsa Cowbell 3. They work great.

Here's a random pic:




More info about my build here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ross+check+105


Hope it helps -- good luck on the conversion!

// Zoxe

I love your bike. But it makes me wonder if I got the right size levers with the 726. I have Salsa Bell Lap bar which looks like it's the same diameter as your bar and your running 721
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Old 07-19-13, 04:32 AM
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Your bar has a 31.8mm diameter near the stem area, and your levers are for 26mm diameter if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 07-19-13, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by J e e p s
Your bar has a 31.8mm diameter near the stem area, and your levers are for 26mm diameter if I'm not mistaken.
My bar is actually a 26. I'm the one who's confused The only specs I found on line said it only came in 31.8

https://salsacycles.com/components/archive/bell_lap/

But my bar has a 26.0 printed on it which is why I ordered the 726. It was all very late when I was doing my shopping so I forgot
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Old 07-19-13, 10:50 AM
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You, Have the option of Shim sleeves if it's too big a clamp on the lever, made for oversized center bars..

they reduce the ID .. and perhaps, have the levers further apart than allowed just placing on the center sleeve/bulge..


Ala, https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=55447

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-19-13 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 07-19-13, 08:12 PM
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I dropped off my bike, Retroshift and cross levers at the LBS to have them install. The guy at the LBS was strongly advising me against installing the cross levers because in his opinion the interupt levers weaken the brake pull and make it feel weird. I told him to do it anyway.
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Old 07-19-13, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rms13
I dropped off my bike, Retroshift and cross levers at the LBS to have them install. The guy at the LBS was strongly advising me against installing the cross levers because in his opinion the interupt levers weaken the brake pull and make it feel weird. I told him to do it anyway.
WADR that dude's an idiot. Interrupter levers don't change the brake pull at all.
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Old 07-19-13, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by flargle
WADR that dude's an idiot. Interrupter levers don't change the brake pull at all.
Good to know. I figure that most cyclocross racers seem to use them and they probably have to stop fast and hard and they don't have problems doing it
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Old 07-21-13, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rms13
I figure that most cyclocross racers seem to use them [...]
They were very popular about a decade ago, but have fallen out of favor with most racers. I took them off a couple seasons ago and found myself missing them at least once or twice a lap, so I put them back on. At Paris-Roubaix there's always a few guys who run one or two crosstops so they can scrub speed on the cobbled sections.

Getting the cable routing correct is a little tricky, because you're moving housing around when you brake with them. They also look a little goofy, I admit. (Although on an all-black cockpit they pretty much blend in.)

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Old 07-22-13, 11:25 AM
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I got the bike back today. $90 in parts and labor from the LBS (ouch!). But I do love the way it turned out. I didn't want to do the work as I've installed a couple of brakes but never did derailleur cables before. They did a much better job then I would have. Cable routing is perfect and the pull on both sets of levers is great.

$975 bike
$139 retroshift
$20 cross levers
$90 for labor
$60 shipping for REI to ship a bike store to store for an exchange after I didn't like the fit on the first bike I bought

So far I'm $1284 into the bike which is just around msrp for a complete Cross Check. I guess that's not too bad but I probably could have bought the frame set and parts and had the LBS build it from scratch for a little less. But either way, I have a bike I completely love now
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Old 07-22-13, 11:58 AM
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Glad you got it sorted, FWIW, going back to comment on no. 14/15, the brake on the end of the cable is unchanged,

But, the 2 levers on the same cable do feel different, fr4om each other,
because the cable pull ratios are a bit different, but they are what they are

and together they function .. OK.


a previous history of the idea I commented on the origins of the top mount

back in as I found https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...rrupter-brakes 7th post

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-22-13 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 07-22-13, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rms13
.... I guess that's not too bad but I probably could have bought the frame set and parts and had the LBS build it from scratch for a little less. But either way, I have a bike I completely love now

Bah, there's always second guessing that can be done. What's important is that you got a bike that'll last you for years at a price you could afford. I'll take quality of workmanship and component selection over expediency and cheapness any day.

Enjoy the ride!
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Old 07-22-13, 06:29 PM
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Here's a picture of my cable routing. Looks a little different then the standard set up.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
CAM00065.jpg (101.1 KB, 48 views)
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Old 07-24-13, 07:18 AM
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It's hard to tell from that photo and with the front wheel turned exactly what's going on. I can't see how the front brake is routed. The PRO thing is to cross the shift housings in front of the headtube and then recross the cables under the downtube, to prevent cable rub on the frame, but the standard way is how the shop did it. IMO the levers are nicely placed, probably just right to get one or two finger braking from the widest part of the tops.
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