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looking for frame with longer front-center due to toe overlap

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looking for frame with longer front-center due to toe overlap

Old 11-05-14, 09:47 AM
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bikebreak
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looking for frame with longer front-center due to toe overlap

I usually ride a road bike with skinny tires, I tried a CX bike with 33's, and had lots of toe strike on the front tire.
On the road no problem, but off road turning at lower speeds kept hitting, since I was pedaling through turns to keep the bike moving on the grass.

Partly due to big feet (size 45) relative to height/frame size, and that I like my cleats towards the back. Frame was a 50cm with front-center (BB to front hub) about 585mm.

I checked some common entry level cx bikes, and front-center for size 50ish is usually around 580-590.
I'd ideally like to get a frame that I could use with bigger tires like 38s

Anything out there with a bit slacker head tube and thus longer front-center? like 60-61cm?

Thanks!
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Old 11-05-14, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bikebreak View Post
...I tried a CX bike with 33's, and had lots of toe strike on the front tire...Partly due to big feet (size 45) relative to height/frame size, and that I like my cleats towards the back. Frame was a 50cm with front-center (BB to front hub) about 585mm...I'd ideally like to get a frame that I could use with bigger tires like 38s

Anything out there with a bit slacker head tube and thus longer front-center? like 60-61cm?...
An off-the-shelf frame with long F/C in size 50 is out of the ordinary.

More information about the test bike please; BB drop, crank arm length, head tube angle, fork axle to crown, and fork rake?

What is the intended use? This forum section covers a wide range of riding.

A change of wheel size and fork spec can reduce the incidence of toe overlap. My shoe size is 44.5, cleats to the rear, crank arm 170mm, 650b wheel, 42mm (nominal) tire, and current front to center less than 580mm. Toe touching tire is very rare. With 175 crank arm, 700c wheel & 32mm tire, overlap was a frequent problem even though former HA was slacker, and A/C & F/C longer.
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Old 11-05-14, 01:43 PM
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The Trek Crockett is basically designed in large part to reduce toe overlap because Katie Compton has problems with it.Pro bike: Katie Compton's Trek Crockett Disc | Cycling News
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Old 11-05-14, 02:56 PM
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Why do you run your cleats at the back?
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Old 11-05-14, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HOWSER View Post
Why do you run your cleats at the back?
Not the OP, but I have problems with my Achilles tendon area hurting on long rides if the cleats aren't toward the back of the slot.
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Old 11-05-14, 04:09 PM
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Built one in '76 , 58 with a 60 top tube

Found putting the front wheel further away from the C of G makes it feel Lighter..
since theres less weight on it .. Might not Plough turns well

Now it has a Porteur rack On It.


might be time to get a frame made for you rather than compromising with something so-so.


50 seat tube witha 60 top tube sounds like you are a market of one.

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-05-14 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 11-05-14, 04:57 PM
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I looked at the specs on the Trek Crockett in size 50, generous F/C guess is only about 58.5cm. Wheelbase 100.1cm - chainstay length 42.5cm = 57.6cm, add ~7mm for BB drop of 7cm for virtual guesstimate. Very high trail of 7.4cm for this size BTW.
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Old 11-06-14, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Werkin View Post
An off-the-shelf frame with long F/C in size 50 is out of the ordinary.

More information about the test bike please; BB drop, crank arm length, head tube angle, fork axle to crown, and fork rake?

What is the intended use? This forum section covers a wide range of riding.

A change of wheel size and fork spec can reduce the incidence of toe overlap. My shoe size is 44.5, cleats to the rear, crank arm 170mm, 650b wheel, 42mm (nominal) tire, and current front to center less than 580mm. Toe touching tire is very rare. With 175 crank arm, 700c wheel & 32mm tire, overlap was a frequent problem even though former HA was slacker, and A/C & F/C longer.
if it helps... Bottom Bracket Drop:75, cranks 172, HTA 71.5, Rake 50
I don't want to go 650, I think the BB would get too low. I could get shorter cranks and save .5cm, but I really am looking for 1-2cm more. Probably same specs but a HTA of 70 degrees would work.
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Old 11-06-14, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by HOWSER View Post
Why do you run your cleats at the back?
It feels better to me.
I also found an article that discussed the benefits thereof, which reinforced my choice
POWER TO THE PEDAL ? CLEAT POSITION Bike Fit Feet Steve Hogg's Bike Fitting Website
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Old 11-06-14, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bikebreak View Post
Anything out there with a bit slacker head tube and thus longer front-center? like 60-61cm?
You probably won't find much in the way of new (or relatively new) frames without going custom. If you don't mind being a little "different", you might look around for an early '90s hybrid. Schwinn, Bianchi, Diamondback, and several others (http://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bic...searching.html) had 700c steel frame "hybrid" models that were much more like a CX bike than today's road-oriented hybrids. Most were designed for flat bars so you'll find they have a much longer top tube and a little more relaxed HTA than a typical CX frame and hence a longer front-center.

You can still find some of these bikes (in surprisingly good condition) for well under $100. Convert to drop bars (if you wish) and add a basic CX wheelset and a more modern drivetrain and you'll still have a very affordable solution. I did this with a '92 Schwinn CrissCross and it's proven to be a really fun bike for SSCX, gravel rides, and even commuting. It's not as nimble or light as my CX race bike, but toe-overlap (which I had to learn to manage on the race bike) is non-existent (even with 37c tires) and the retro-ness actually finds favor with the CX crowd
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Old 11-06-14, 09:47 AM
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An FYI on most off-the-shelf sizing. Fork size/spec remains the same for a manufacturer's model range, so viewing the HA in isolation, slacken the HA by 1 degree or greater increases trail significantly. If you can't find a new entry level frame & fork set to fit your needs, consider an alternative fork with greater offset and axle to crown distance.

Last edited by Werkin; 11-06-14 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 11-06-14, 09:59 PM
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I wear 13's and have my cleats back as far as they can go. Size L Awol. Tons of toe clearance. (Main reason I picked one up) I have 2.2" tires on there now. Frame has a long top tube and comes with a short stem.
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Old 11-28-14, 10:51 AM
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Kopsis, thanks!
I found an old Trek 750 with lots of front-center. 21 speed with grip shifters, I might put my 9 speed ultegra stuff on it. Way heavier than a modern cx bike, but will be fine for commuting
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Old 11-28-14, 02:01 PM
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I don't know of this is a correct solution but I had a essentric bb before I received my outboard bb. I got the 1x10 setup with the eccentric. With that I lost my overlap. I recently went with a nos ritchey 26in mountain carbon fork with 48degree rake as opposed to 45 that it came stock with and was able to eliminate toe overlap again with the outbourd bearing bb. But I had no problems with the essentric set up as 1x10.
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Old 12-01-14, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bikebreak View Post
Kopsis, thanks!
I found an old Trek 750 with lots of front-center. 21 speed with grip shifters, I might put my 9 speed ultegra stuff on it. Way heavier than a modern cx bike, but will be fine for commuting
Congrats on the 750 -- great platform to build on, or just ride as-is. With key component upgrades, you might be surprised how much weight you can drop. The stems on these vintage hybrids tend to be steel and very heavy. Likewise, there's usually a lot of weight in the crankset (steel chainrings were pretty common at this price point). Wheels (if original) are also probably pretty heavy. I got my Crisscross down from about 28 lb with all original components to just over 21 lb in SSCX configuration (changing out the components I mentioned and removing the derailleurs and shifters). I could probably get it under 20, but that would get expensive and half the fun of this bike is knowing I don't have a lot of money in it
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