ModeratedUser

Hello all,

I'm trying to figure out the best way to get some adjustment on a rear cantilever brake setup. I did try this setup,



and was completely disappointed in it and decided to take it off. So right now there's no adjustment possible and I can't take my wheel off without loosing up the whole system. The brake used is this setup,



I'm looking to get minimal adjustment. It doesn't need to be much, 1-2mm?

Greenfast

Looks like that is an inline barrel adjuster? That is what you need but it needs to be installed farther up so you have cable housing in and out of it so it can be turned to add or remove cable slack.

CBBaron

You should be able to pop the cable end out of the left brake caliper. This allows the brakes to open up for easy wheel removal.

The barrel adjuster needs to be in-line in the cable, probably somewhere in the loop from your bars to frame in the front of the bike. It is used to fine tune brake position and take up slack from pad wear. It is not a good solution for wheel removal as the adjustment is minimal.

Craig

ModeratedUser

The thing is that I don't really need that much of extra cable to get my wheel off. 1 or 2mm would give me enough play to get the link wire off my brake.

I'm not crazy about having the adjustment on the shifters cause that would kinda mean you have to have one on each side, or it would look like pooh.

DirtRoadRunner

You can get one of these:
Surly Brake Hanger > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Shifter Cable and Housing | Jenson USA

The hanger mounts on your seatpost clamp bolt.

It includes a barrel adjuster, and will move the point where your cable terminates further away from your current braze on between the seat-stays. You would then route the cable (not the housing) through the existing braze-on and towards your brakes. Note that this type of hanger does induce a bit of squishiness into the system, but does not seem to affect braking power that much. I have one on my bike.

ModeratedUser

Yeah I should have said that I was wanting to use what is on the bike. Seems like there should be a barrel adjuster that would fit into that bracket, have a slight bend or curve to it, have small barrel for adjusting and continue on with the parts of the brake system. Now that would look pretty sweet! I guess I can keep dreaming.

Kinda wish I didn't have this bracket on the frame. I could easily go for one of the good hangers available.

Wilfred Laurier

The picture shows a badly installed cable (not seated in cable stop) that is too short. Unless those problems are fixed, any experience you have with that setup is meaningless.

justin1138

just to be totally clear, if you use the barrel adjuster, it needs to be installed like this...



with cable housing going in and cable housing going out. i'm guessing the pack you bought came with two? you could install both (front and rear brake) and achieve a non-pooh look if it's that upsetting to just have one.

aside from the barrel adjuster, there really should be enough slack in the link wire if you press both arms of the brake towards the rim. or you like them REALLY close i guess...

ModeratedUser

I took that setup off and cut another housing for a replacement. The current system has no adjustment on it.

ModeratedUser

I like brakes really kinda tight. There's ~1-2mm brake pad clearance. And squeezing the pads to get the link wire off doesn't do it.

fietsbob

see the other thread you also started.

maybe those answers were not good enough for you and nothing will satisfy

ModeratedUser

I didn't know we have the forum police here. I guess I'll start my threads by asking if I can post a question here?

ModeratedUser

Holly crap! I just tried to take the link wire off and did! Should be feeling kinda "mushy" soon on the brakes.

justin1138

i was gonna say, you could always just wait until the pads wear down a bit...

or air the tires out so you don't have mess with the brakes if they're too tight.

or get a yoke and straddle cable instead of the link wire. i don't know if that would help, but i think it might give you a wider range of adjustment in general.

ModeratedUser

This seems like a good idea. At least it's worth a shot and isn't really expensive or time consuming. It doesn't really give me any easy adjustments, but I might be able to dial things in where I'll get the feel wanted and fairly easy removal of the wheel.

This Tektro setup sounds like a good option, unless there's something better out there? better = good performance at a reasonable price

fietsbob

If you are not running Knobby front tires like in MTB , then the 1 issue those types had , namely breaking the main cable and having the caliper return springs

Clothes-line the Knobs with the transverse cable and stop the wheel . & send the rider over the bars

The type you have was the cure for that , since If a Broken cable happens , the brakes Fail Open..

ModeratedUser

It looks like that wouldn't happen if I'm understanding correctly. If the main cable breaks, the brake pad would stop the rotation of the loose brake assembly.

fietsbob

The Primary Brake cable runs thru the small short housing tube brake cable and is held by the Clamping bolt on you right side, facing.

The tektro one you linked to is Different . https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Alloy-B...iglink20253-20

ModeratedUser

Well yeah, that was a response, #15 , to Justin1138 and his post, #14 . I'm looking at setting up that and comparing the two setups. The link cable setup I currently have and the yoke and straddle cable setup.