1998 Cannondale Saeco CAD 3
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#3
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Let go tearing it down!

Dura-Ace brakes & Slice Coda carbon forks.

Dura -Ace rear derailleur.

Ultegra front derailleur.

Immix Cannondale carbon & Titanium cage.

Saeco!
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So I assume you are sticking with Dura Ace 7700 2x9 shifting?
Also, have you looked up the vintage Cannondale catalogs from the CAAD3 era? I want say that the SAECO replica frameset was sold as a frameset not a complete bike, I'm not sure. Is there a particular wheel set that you desire to use?
I have a size 58 CAAD3 R1000 which I believe is the same frame, different paint job. It is a very stiff ride. Not the lightest but certainly potentially very fast.
Keep us posted on the progress of your build and please document with plenty of photos.
Also, have you looked up the vintage Cannondale catalogs from the CAAD3 era? I want say that the SAECO replica frameset was sold as a frameset not a complete bike, I'm not sure. Is there a particular wheel set that you desire to use?
I have a size 58 CAAD3 R1000 which I believe is the same frame, different paint job. It is a very stiff ride. Not the lightest but certainly potentially very fast.
Keep us posted on the progress of your build and please document with plenty of photos.
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#6
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Only thing needed would be the Dura-Ace crankset correct?
What would be a good upgrade crankset?
What would be a good upgrade crankset?
Last edited by CABELLOJO; 05-26-21 at 12:50 PM.
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Dura Ace 7700 with the matching 7700 Octalink BB would make the most sense since you want to keep it original. Or you could spec a Cannondale Crank. Not sure if the CAAD3 era frames had the Hollowgram cranks yet though. Your frame has an English threaded bottom bracket, BB30 wasn't out yet. If you had a Hollowgram crank in black or silver I think you could spec a threaded 30mm bottom bracket as a custom option. The chunky arms of the Hollowgram cranks to my eye are very iconic and beefy looking. But really the 7700 cranks are so lovely. Used ones are not that expensive since they usually have extensive scratches to the clear anodizing. Fortunately, thanks the the flowing lines, they can be wet sanded with finer and finer grits of autobody wet sand paper then polished with mag wheel polish to a mirror shine (at least of the outside, polishing the inside facets might be a lot more labor intensive).
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Hello fellow Houstonian! I saw that frame as well - but it's too large for me. They were also selling a matching 48cm one, but that's too small for me LOL. Need that 50/52 sweet spot! Looking forward to how you finish this sucker off!
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7402 Dura Ace crank from the 8 speed era would work fine. It uses a 110mm square taper BB I believe. The 7410 crank is the lower profile version that takes a 102mm bottom bracket square taper axlle bb. The 7410's are reallly gorgeous and stiff too.
#12
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Yessir, I'm in the same boat, size-wise. This one turns out is a 56cm, not the 58cm they advertised. Will build for my nephew most likely.
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The 7400 cranks were for 6 and 7 speed Dura Ace groups, the 7402 for 8 speed. The 7410 is for 8 speed and the 7700 is for 9 speed. But really any of them would work fine with 9 speed as far as I know. The 10 speed 7800 cranks will also work fine with 9 speed.
#14
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7700 Dura Ac would be 'period correct'. Cannondale CODA, as seen in the 1998 catalog would be authentic, but a quick trip to Ebay suggests that would be difficult to source, plus it may need its own bottom bracket. 7410 or 7402 Dura Ace are both a bit anachronistic. Oh, and the 7410 Dura Ace crank uses a 103mm JIS taper spindle, not 102.
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CORRECTION: It looks like the original was sold with the 7700 crankset. Also, a Thomson Elite seatpost. And Spinergy wheels.
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Not sure there were many carbon fiber cranksets in 1998. Seatpost is a good idea, given the stiffness of Cannondale frames of that era. Running 25mm tires at 90psi helps too - WAY better than 23s a 120psi!
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#23
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Carbon fork, seatpost, & cranks maybe?