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Innicycle threaded to threadless converter

Old 11-27-23, 11:59 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cycledog1
just so there's no question about WHAT the slippage is that I'm talking about.

the "steerer" tube is tightened as the upper race/headset and is tight -------- doesn't move. the cap then tightens in from the top, no issue with slippage with the headtube, in the alum finish I might add, not powd ct'd in a color. only the stem, when slipped over top and tightened at the desired ht does the STEM slip/move side to side hoiz around if pulled enough after tightening and the bar intact. the issue I see is the texture of the steerer tube shouldn't allow the stem to slip/rotate around the st tube when tightened. most steerer tubes on forks have dull/matte finishes in the alum or CF. once they are tight enough, rotation ONLY happens with a LOT of pressure, such as an impact.

I'm thinking the best approach is a locktight or light spray glue to the surface. otherwise, it may be tight enough with normal riding ---------- I'm more concerned about the torque when turning with vibration and higher speeds.

anyone else had the issue I have with the "rotating" stem once tight with the bar installed and putting pressure on it?
Iíve never thought much about the stem rotating as itís never been an issue, for me. So I just went and tried to rotate the bars and it took quite a bit of force on the bars with the wheel between my legs. I mean a lot. So, I tightened the stem bolts a precise smidge and tried again and it didnít budge. I didnít use my torque wrench but I did when I installed it, so it might have loosened a bit. Or I might have exceeded the torque specs when I just tightened it. The only way to find out is to retorque to specs and try to see if it rotates again. Unfortunately, I donít have my torque wrench with me right now.
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Old 11-28-23, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cycledog1
just so there's no question about WHAT the slippage is that I'm talking about.

the "steerer" tube is tightened as the upper race/headset and is tight -------- doesn't move. the cap then tightens in from the top, no issue with slippage with the headtube, in the alum finish I might add, not powd ct'd in a color. only the stem, when slipped over top and tightened at the desired ht does the STEM slip/move side to side hoiz around if pulled enough after tightening and the bar intact. the issue I see is the texture of the steerer tube shouldn't allow the stem to slip/rotate around the st tube when tightened. most steerer tubes on forks have dull/matte finishes in the alum or CF. once they are tight enough, rotation ONLY happens with a LOT of pressure, such as an impact.

I'm thinking the best approach is a locktight or light spray glue to the surface. otherwise, it may be tight enough with normal riding ---------- I'm more concerned about the torque when turning with vibration and higher speeds.

anyone else had the issue I have with the "rotating" stem once tight with the bar installed and putting pressure on it?
I am glad you clarified the issue as that is not what I thought you were describing. Did you try the assembly paste between your stem and the innicycle steerer tube to see if that helps? Where I initially described adding it wouldn't make any difference but I thought you had slippage somewhere else.

Which stem are you using on your innicycle and what are you torquing the bolts to? Is there still a gap at the split in the stem clamp or has it bottomed out? If not already bottomed, have you tried going a 'precise smidge tighter' as BMC_Kid describes?
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Old 11-28-23, 11:39 AM
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Am I correct then in my understanding that when tightened a little more (16 ft-lb rather than N-m), the slippage is no longer a problem?
I am contemplating changing quills in my older bikes (at least 2, may be 3) this winter and I do not want to add something for esthetics that comes with a few added headaches. 😉
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Old 11-28-23, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan K
Am I correct then in my understanding that when tightened a little more (16 ft-lb rather than N-m), the slippage is no longer a problem?
I am contemplating changing quills in my older bikes (at least 2, may be 3) this winter and I do not want to add something for esthetics that comes with a few added headaches. 😉
There are two slippage issues that have been brought to my attention over the years (amongst hundreds of problem free installs FWIW):

1. slippage of the innicycle quill within the threaded steerer tube: A few customers have mentioned either needing to use additional torque (15 ft.*lbs. or so, versus the 15 N*m stated in the install video) on the top cap or carbon paste on the quill to have it locked to their satisfaction. I've also made some small changes recently to the cone to aid in its ability to expand the quill for a tighter lock. I expect this issue to be resolved with that change, as rare it was to hear about it.

2. slippage of the threadless stem on the innicycle steerer tube: This one is brand new to me as of cycledog1 mentioning it. Just browsing Amazon, there are a LOT of threadless adapters out there with the majority having no texture, and most of those having a bright, nearly-polished finish as well. A few have some texture and notably Nitto makes an adapter with a knurled finish. I also have a bunch of forks in my office in steel, aluminum, and carbon, and only one of those has anything nearing what I would consider texture (a Trek Domane fork). I'm still willing to accept that the finish on the innicycle is causing the slippage he's seeing, but then I'd also bet that a different stem wouldn't have that issue either.
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Old 11-28-23, 03:47 PM
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ritchey WCS. I put the thompson on, its not as snug for obvious reasons. the bolts are as tight as possible.

as you can see, the installs are clean, to anyone thinking of using one. I still have grease oosing out the the crack. mine didn't come with the special rubber bolt cap, but this one isn't a rain bike ------- my all weather bike is my allroad disc with fenders, so this lemond doesn't intentionally see rain. I'll let you know what I use to lock'er down, locktight is the most common market item as accessible anywhere, so will keep you posted.


'99 Lemond Zurich retromoderned with 6700 and now converted from the quil to the innicycle headset/steerertube conversion.

the innicycle headset/steerertube conversion from the former quill stem.
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Old 12-03-23, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by joejack951
There are two slippage issues that have been brought to my attention over the years (amongst hundreds of problem free installs FWIW):

1. slippage of the innicycle quill within the threaded steerer tube: A few customers have mentioned either needing to use additional torque (15 ft.*lbs. or so, versus the 15 N*m stated in the install video) on the top cap or carbon paste on the quill to have it locked to their satisfaction. I've also made some small changes recently to the cone to aid in its ability to expand the quill for a tighter lock. I expect this issue to be resolved with that change, as rare it was to hear about it.

2. slippage of the threadless stem on the innicycle steerer tube: This one is brand new to me as of cycledog1 mentioning it. Just browsing Amazon, there are a LOT of threadless adapters out there with the majority having no texture, and most of those having a bright, nearly-polished finish as well. A few have some texture and notably Nitto makes an adapter with a knurled finish. I also have a bunch of forks in my office in steel, aluminum, and carbon, and only one of those has anything nearing what I would consider texture (a Trek Domane fork). I'm still willing to accept that the finish on the innicycle is causing the slippage he's seeing, but then I'd also bet that a different stem wouldn't have that issue either.

problem solved - the issue DID turn out to be slippage of the innicycle quill within the threaded steerer tube. I was sure it was as tight as could be reasonalby expected, but there was more to be done and THAT WAS the slippage afterall, not the stem. big relief.
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