Ok, how ARE ergo bars supposed to be set up?
 

This seemed like the best place for this question since ergo bars were big when 7-9 speed was new. How are they supposed to be set up? Initially I had them set with the drops level to the ground, and lever bottoms level with the drops. This was ok, and looked right, but my reach to the levers in the hooks was a stretch, and the hook position wasn’t very comfortable. Last night after a bit of bourbon I decided to rotate the bars up and move the levers down. This helped my reach to the brakes, is comfortable in the hooks, but looks wrong. Do I need to just accept that it doesn’t look like drop bars should look?

pics:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4928fbc0e.jpeg
Looks right, but a stretch to the brake levers
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f9646291.jpeg
Looks wrong, feels right.

I decided it was just too much to think about, and I wasn’t feeling the aesthetics of the bars, and went back to the classic bend cinelli bar and stem combo.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...83bea13db.jpeg

Your second pic is correct, allows for the greatest number of usable hand positions. Cool chair, I have one very similar though the arms are not upholstered. It reclines.;)

Like Flatforkcrown, I'm not a fan of ergo bars. So, I'd set them up on a shelf and put some classic round bars on the bike.

Since you led with the De Rosa, I will too.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8c2bba26_b.jpgCropped Red and Black final on De Rosa on Flickr

Clearly these are the 10v second gen Ergos. I rode this bike within the last week and didn't like the position. I don't want to feel like the nub on the top is keeping my hands from slipping forward. One of the reasons my bars are rotated "up." I like a flat bar and not one slopping down toward the top of the hoods. I am thinking of swapping to an ergo bar, Cinelli Via.

The Pin is next with the 8V gen I Ergos.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c317056d_b.jpgP1050224 on Flickr

This is more comfortable for me. Again, the bar is rotated to be flat on top. I will likely go with a shorter stem. Note the greater angle of the hoods. I know there is the "right" position with the flats parallel to the ground, but I don't like the ergonomics as a result, either on the top or drops. My preference is the flats perpendicular to my arm or close.
These will be replaced during the conversion to 9V, giving me even a lower gear with a 26t ilo 23t. The replacement Ergos are the same as on the DR.

Whatever is the most comfortable for YOU....


THAT is the correct position.

I tend to have mine angled in relation to the downtube.

It's the most comfortable for me :)

Substitute bourbon for beer and this is how a lot of my great ideas get started also

I blame Shimano for the levers that look like antlers. In looking at the shape, I understand how that transpired.

one day I will tear into my 8 speed Shimano 600 levers, works the highest ratio three gears then falls back. I had to study them to figure out how to get them off the bars.

yeah, need some instructions. But hey, I Write instructions.

Feels right = is right.

This bike is the way we set them up in the shop, the end of the bars point to the brake pivot bolt. A flat edge would be set on the bottom of the bar and the tip of the brake levers would be set to it or within 2-3mm of the flat edge, every bar being different we made sure it was comfortable to reach the blade from the drops. This was the standard placement for any custom build, usually Carrera, Moser or Litespeed. Of course, adjustments would be made for comfort.
Sweet DeRosa, I'm envious.

Campy's setup for Ergo has been the same forever and for all setups (8s, 9s,10s,11s,12s). The bottom tip of the brake lever should be on the same plane as the drop bars. The angle between the top of the bar and the top of the levers should be as large as possible (blue lines) otherwise the sharper bend can cause the brake cable to kink. I wouldn't go back to any bike shop that diverges too much from Campagnolo's recommended setup. But that's just me.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...869e88e79.jpeg

I've never liked this style bar exactly for this reason. To me, for both comfort & aesthetics, a more modern bar like the Soma HWY 1, has the hoods right at the top beginning bend of the drops so that it creates a mostly flat transition from the bar onto the hood.

I've never understood how having your hoods stick straight out halfway down a forward sloping bar is any kind of comfortable - the way it's set up you might as well use bullhorns and actually be more comfortable.

All drop bars should have the tips pointing down toward the center of the seat stays. If they're pointing straight back and you're out of the saddle with your hands on the tips your wrists are bent unnaturally and the steering is hard to control. Ergo's were designed with that in mind.

Thank you, I was just setting up some Ergo 8s yesterday on a project and didn't know for sure where to position them. I ended up setting them like this so I'm glad to see that's correct.

Yeah, I am playing around with a number of changes on the Pin. Bars are one. Haven't settled on position yet.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7d32d7c83f.jpg

That's how I set mine up, and they always work great.

How should you set up "ergo" bars? In the recycle bin.

I'd say your Ergo bars look great, but you could shorten the stem extension, maybe up to 2 cm depending how how long the excess reach is.

In that last picture with what look like Cinelli 64 (Giro d'Italia?) or a similar shape, the flat bottom of the bar is nice as is the lever position and the hood is certainly usable, but I would not be able to ride on that steep ramp.

I also like a different form of ergonomic design sometimes called a "compact" bar. Examples include the 3T Ergonova. The curve at the brake lever clamp is pretty sharp but it opens up to a more gradual curve which makes a more comfortable hooks grip than the straight segment of the Ergonomic bar. The flat area of the drop section is a little longer that for a lot of the Ergos,and that is good for resting in the drops. Also, the ramp and the drop are a lot closer to parallel, which to me is more comfortable in both positions. The bar has pretty short reach and a pretty shallow drop (125 to 130 mm) so I'm not sure they would be a good racing bar, but as a sport bar I think they're excellent. A more accessible version of the bar is the FSA Compact.

So tell me how you're going to operate the brake and shift levers from the drops.

Here's my take. This first generation of "ergo" bar is the worst design in the entire history of drop handlebars. At least with the traditional curve, with the levers several centimeters lower than the top, you could grip the curve above the lever with the palm of the hand. And with a quill stem, your options are limited.

My guess is you have a later model Cinelli stem with a 26.0 mm clamp. Traditionally, Cinelli clamps were 26.4, but around the 1990s they went to 26.0, probably for compatibility with all the other Italian makers (3T, Modulo, ITM). Measure to be sure.

Cinelli makes two reissue bars for 26.0, the 64 and 65. The 64 has the shallower drop and is more square on top. https://cinelli.it/en/prodotti/giro-ditalia-2/

The 65 has a little more drop and reach, and has a wider radius curve over the top, ostensibly to provide wrist clearance when sprinting from the drops. https://cinelli.it/en/prodotti/criterium-2/

This curve across the top makes a nice landing zone for the hands between the brake hoods and the tops. This zone on your "ergo" bar is virtually useless because it's straight; your hands slide straight down to the levers. There's nothing to hold onto. If you have a 26.4 stem, and want to keep using it, used Cinelli bars are available on eBay.

It's too bad nobody seems to be making the modern compact and square bends for 26.0 clamps.

The "correct" way to set up Ergo levers on a trad handlebar. Even better, it works. You can shift and brake equally well from the hoods or the drops.

Problem is, modern compact bars come only for a 31.8 mm clamp and nobody makes 31.8 mm quill stems.

I did some adjustment
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7d7eabb7aa.jpg

It works for the on the hood rides but I am disappointed in the drop positioning. I would prefer the bars rotated to be pointed higher. Then the drops are not comfortable.
I can shift with my index finger but not optimal.
I agree, this is not a great configuration. i will likely go back to a more traditional 64-40 bar. I do have a 65 mounted on a Trek 760 which I need to ride more to determine if I like it.

There are a number of bars on the wall that I need to release. Once I have settled on which one works best for me....
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d2c05bab_b.jpgP1040014 on Flickr

Better, but still no cheese. The problem with these bars is, too much reach, too many flat sections, and too many sharp bends. 1995-2005 was just the blind-staggers decade for handlebar bends.

Same bars as the previous picture. But you knew that.
May go back to the previous bars.
https://live.staticflickr.com/1873/3...a730d232_b.jpgP1010551 on Flickr

Sweet.