Help Installing a 72v 1000w Controller.
 

I just got a 72v 1000w controller and am having trouble figuring out the
wiring. I attached images of the plugs and wire colors coming out of the
controller and attached the supposed wiring diagram from the shipper.
Not sure the wiring diagram they included is even for this controller.
Looking at the images you can see I've already installed the XT60 plugs
on the battery positive and negative terminals for the controller. And
XT60's on the yellow, green and blue motor power wires. I understand
those wires. My problem is, which are the throttle wires and I'm
guessing wires have to be shorted to turn on the controller. At this
point I would be happy having enough done just to see the wheel turn. I
have a couple of different throttles. One has yellow, brown, green,
white, black and red. Another has yellow, green, blue and red. Another
has Red, white and black. I think I can use the red, white and black
throttle as long as I know what wires need to be shorted to turn on the
controller (like pushing the power button on the throttle). The motor
hall sensor wire colors are black, blue, green, yellow and red. The
controller hall sensor wires have 2 striped colors per wire shown in the
attached image. There is a blurb in the paperwork from the shipper
implying hall wires may not be needed with this controller. I would be
willing to Paypal someone a consult fee if they could get me through
this. First to get it spinning, then if you had knowledge of the
accessory wires. Thanks in advance for your help. Rich

Some controllers have a "self-learning" feature since there are 120 combinations of the sensors ( AFAIK and the rest of the connections are intuitive). Hopefully C58 or DW will respond.

You have throttles with six, four, and three wires? A basic throttle uses three wires, +5V power, ground, and signal. Adding more functions to the control needs more wires. A throttle with a battery level led's, but no start button, would probably need four wires, with the fourth wire being battery power. Six wires? It must have at least a start switch.

Looking at your connectors, you probably want the three wire throttle. If you have the right connector, you can figure which of the three wires is ground, and power. There are usually two like that. One is for the throttle. The other for pedal sensor. Sometimes, a third is added for a wheel sensor speedometer.

The above is for later. Your first problem is figuring out what has to be done to power up that controller. Which wires need to be connected?

I recall seeing a post on the endless sphere forum where someone figured out what to do with the "reversing" and "door locks". You ought to repost over there. By the way, some of your pics have more wires than your text.

Did your motor ever spin on a prior controller?

DW, isn't the biggest challenge figuring out the sensor alignment?

DW, 2old, It's running. It was the small single red wire they had listed as "Power door locks" that had to be connected to +72v. I connected the throttle red, black, white to the controller red, black, green (they had marked as "turn the line"). I connected the white learning wires and pulled the rear tire off the ground. When I connected the power it started turning backwards. I hit the throttle once and it came to a stop and then started turning forward. I then disconnected the white learning wires and it seems to be working good. I'm not seeing a difference between having the hall sensors hooked up or not. But that's free spinning and not under load. Boy, looking at the 48v free spin speed vhs 72v free spin speed, it was a scary fast free spin speed. It looks like it's time for leathers. I hope the loaded test goes as good as the free spin test now. Now I'm curious what the multiple other wires do that are unused. Thanks for your help getting it going. Rich

I take back the comment that it ran the same whether the hall wires were hooked up or not. I found once you un-pluged the hall wires and ran it without the hall wires you had to go back and connect the white learning wires again and let it re-learn. Once you make it learn again the pickup is faster and top end was faster with the hall wires installed . If after you disconnected the hall wires and ran it and you did not let it re-learn by connecting the two white wires it would perform the same whether you had the hall wires connected or not. Did it run without the hall wires connected? Yes it did but it was not as robust. This is the first I knew there there were learning wires much less what to do with them. They are important. I think it would be like running your car with the advance springs in a distributor missing (I had to futs allot with distributor timing advance springs on 8v's when I was young). I took it out tonight and hit 41 mph. I just started with ebikes 2 months ago and got a 36v that went 20mph first, then a 48v that went 30mph and now a 72v that went 40mph. I can barely catch a gear at 40mph. I already have an 11 tooth back free wheel. Now I'm looking at getting a 52 tooth front (I have 48 tooth now). And a shorter crank arm length? I do want to be able to pedal at the speed I'm going. It is still about exercise for me. Tonight for the 72v controller test, when I got back I shot the hub with an infrared temp sensor and it showed 140 degrees. With the 36v and 48v controllers the hub barely got warm. But I did overdo it for the test just to see what it would do. If it's going to fail I want it to fail on the test and not on a road trip. I may have to get a heavier duty hub motor. The controller showed 125 degrees. I ran the batt out to see where the cut out was and on the 72v controller it cut out at 58v. I have 5 20 cell 25R packs (12.5a). Thanks for the help guys. I wouldn't have gotten it running without you. Rich

Rich, really interesting; thanks for the report. My top speed on a YESCOM 1000w, 48V motor with a 30 amp controller and a 52V, 10 a/h battery is 32 mph, but the bike seemed to be capable of a little more, not me. Been thinking of transferring the motor to another frame and trying 72V; we'll see. Your test helps a ton since I haven't tried to "teach" a controller yet. BTW, I don't think that 140 degrees is a critical point for the motor; "SHOULD" be able to take a little more.

Good to know that you think 140 degrees is not critical for a hub temp. It was a "lets see what it'll take" test so it's not how I would normally push it. So under normal driving it would show a lower temp. It's a cheap Ebay $150 complete 48v 1000w hub, so if it goes it's not a big loss. If it does go I'll be ready to open it up and hope it's just one of the feed wires which I can beef up. If it's in the windings then it's a loss and I'll rack it up to testing. If you have the learning wires on your controller I would definitely use them. Seeing what I saw as far as torque and speed difference I think I would now miss it after experiencing it with the proper learned timing. Also, yes, 30mph is what I got with my 52v 1000w hub. Rich