2017 Riese & Müller Delite GT Touring a true e-Adventure bike
#26
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Actually I AM, have been, cutting back on my comments about throttles, especially in threads where that is not the subject... I am only replying to others who make comments about throttles since a few weeks now, and will continue to do so...
NoPhart was commenting on throttles and since he was the thread starter I answered his Q/statement.

NoPharts comments were of a technical nature, rather than sticking to the subject by simply stating that you find the BioniX system adequate for your needs without using the throttle, you used it as an excuse to once again go into your tirade against throttles.
#27
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IMHO manufacturers that don't offer a throttle "option" (give user choice) clearly don't get it at all. Torque sensors work pretty well if all you do is get on your E-bike and ride in a straight line on a semi-smooth surfaces with smooth rounded corners. It's probably fine for most commuting, but when it comes to an eMTB everything changes because of the complicated surfaces you are riding on and the balance that is needed; much of which comes from pressure on the pedals when you don't want power applied. Even a crank sensor (non-torque, just rotation) can cause crazy problems at times. Some of those times are in simple slow speed corners on asphalt or when just adjusting pedals location for an upcoming turn. The pedal movement applies power, which you have to react to; typically with the brakes. Not desired.
Here's simple example of a torque sensor causing a (probably tourist rental) rider to crash on the beach boardwalk which I watched happen. She was going really slow and trying to stop at a right side curb on the boardwalk. As she approached the curb she put her right foot down off a right pedal at the bottom. I have to assume she wasn't using the brake, because she wasn't hardly even moving. As her right foot hit the ground her left foot started its' down stroke and the bike starting moving forward. The power extended her arms making it difficult to reach the brakes (if she even thought of that) and she had to raise her right foot to start hopping to keep the bike under control. Every time she lifted her right foot, her weight went to the left foot applying the power. As you can imagine, she got about 3-4 hops in and then went down hard on her right side on the cement.
Clearly experience played a roll here, but this illustrates how in certain situations you end up getting power when you don't want it. Off-road this issue quadruples and braking (or dragging the brake) to cut the motor isn't the optimum solution in so many instances. Torque sensors and even crank sensors can feel really strange and not natural until you are at speed. It's the slow speeds, cornering, adjusting pedal location and odd terrain where throttles shine.
IMHO throttles are the safest power application method, but I don't like having to hold a throttle on while just riding, so a combination of power application methods that are up to the user is by far the best solution. When mountain biking I personally want the same MTB experience as without a motor for control, but assist only during steep climbs that are physically difficult. That is very different than what I prefer for commuting or beach cruising.
Everyone has their personal favored method of power application and that method may vary depending on where and how they are riding that day. Choice is good for the rider and sales.
If manufacturers won't give choice, then they clearly don't get it at all. Get on a E-bike or eMTB and go ride with variable options.
Here's simple example of a torque sensor causing a (probably tourist rental) rider to crash on the beach boardwalk which I watched happen. She was going really slow and trying to stop at a right side curb on the boardwalk. As she approached the curb she put her right foot down off a right pedal at the bottom. I have to assume she wasn't using the brake, because she wasn't hardly even moving. As her right foot hit the ground her left foot started its' down stroke and the bike starting moving forward. The power extended her arms making it difficult to reach the brakes (if she even thought of that) and she had to raise her right foot to start hopping to keep the bike under control. Every time she lifted her right foot, her weight went to the left foot applying the power. As you can imagine, she got about 3-4 hops in and then went down hard on her right side on the cement.
Clearly experience played a roll here, but this illustrates how in certain situations you end up getting power when you don't want it. Off-road this issue quadruples and braking (or dragging the brake) to cut the motor isn't the optimum solution in so many instances. Torque sensors and even crank sensors can feel really strange and not natural until you are at speed. It's the slow speeds, cornering, adjusting pedal location and odd terrain where throttles shine.
IMHO throttles are the safest power application method, but I don't like having to hold a throttle on while just riding, so a combination of power application methods that are up to the user is by far the best solution. When mountain biking I personally want the same MTB experience as without a motor for control, but assist only during steep climbs that are physically difficult. That is very different than what I prefer for commuting or beach cruising.
Everyone has their personal favored method of power application and that method may vary depending on where and how they are riding that day. Choice is good for the rider and sales.

If manufacturers won't give choice, then they clearly don't get it at all. Get on a E-bike or eMTB and go ride with variable options.

#28
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You're being duplicitous.
NoPharts comments were of a technical nature, rather than sticking to the subject by simply stating that you find the BioniX system adequate for your needs without using the throttle, you used it as an excuse to once again go into your tirade against throttles.
NoPharts comments were of a technical nature, rather than sticking to the subject by simply stating that you find the BioniX system adequate for your needs without using the throttle, you used it as an excuse to once again go into your tirade against throttles.
Last edited by 350htrr; 04-29-17 at 04:55 PM. Reason: spelling & add stuff
#29
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When a retailer suggests some of the bikes they sell are likely to be inadequate for someones needs, and suggest bikes they don't sell, I think it's wise to listen.
#30
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A local e-bike retailer who sells bikes with the Bosch system specifically recommended other systems with a throttle for my circumstance of being a heavy rider in extremely hilly terrain.
When a retailer suggests some of the bikes they sell are likely to be inadequate for someones needs, and suggest bikes they don't sell, I think it's wise to listen.
When a retailer suggests some of the bikes they sell are likely to be inadequate for someones needs, and suggest bikes they don't sell, I think it's wise to listen.



EDIT; As I am 100% sure there are others out there that want/would ride a bicycle "if" it had enough power, to make it up all the hills and not pedal, or not pedal much... because they have some "problems"... Well now, a permit would solve that problem... They could have an E-Assist bike with whatever power levels they need...


Last edited by 350htrr; 04-29-17 at 06:40 PM.
#31
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#32
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#33
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I think they really got the general FS frame design with rack right on this visually appealing E-bike, but the heavy weight is just too much. It's unfortunate that the weight isn't about 1/2 to 2/3 what it is. At that heavy weight it just seems like a 1970's moped with an electric motor that you "have" to pedal.

It's really the "weight" of this particular ride that makes me push it into the moped category. I really like the general design of full suspension geometry with a rear rack. I honestly think this general design in a non-electric bike would sell well if they can make it as light a other FS MTB's (no real reason they can't). What a great touring MTB / camping bike it would be. That seems right up RM's alley. RM, get the weigh and price down, and you'll have a winner!
Last edited by NoPhart; 05-01-17 at 08:04 AM.
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Hmmmm, these are not admirable qualities on a discussion forum. Just saying. Please leave this thread and don't return to this discussion. PM me if you would like to discuss this further, thanks!
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#35
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Quoting myself.... 
It's really the "weight" of this particular ride that makes me push it into the moped category. I really like the general design of full suspension geometry with a rear rack. I honestly think this general design in a non-electric bike would sell well if they can make it as light a other FS MTB's (no real reason they can't). What a great touring MTB / bike camping bike it would be. That seems right up RM's alley. RM, get the weigh and price down, and you'll have a winning!

It's really the "weight" of this particular ride that makes me push it into the moped category. I really like the general design of full suspension geometry with a rear rack. I honestly think this general design in a non-electric bike would sell well if they can make it as light a other FS MTB's (no real reason they can't). What a great touring MTB / bike camping bike it would be. That seems right up RM's alley. RM, get the weigh and price down, and you'll have a winning!
Weight reduction other than not having the second battery would likely drive up the price.
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I suppose that could make a difference for some folks, and personally I would prefer the Nuvinci, but I must admit I didn't look at it that closely as it's outside my price range even though my e-bike is my primary transportation.
#38
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Never thought about needing throttle only for trail use, but it makes sense. Sometimes I have wished for a button that would cut PAS altogether, and "override" of sorts, to allow throttle only, and then press the button again to go back to the PAS level I was at before. It's rather annoying to have to push the minus button repeatedly to get down to PAS 0 if I was up in 5 or 6 before, and need to go back to that level shortly after.
#39
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Never thought about needing throttle only for trail use, but it makes sense. Sometimes I have wished for a button that would cut PAS altogether, and "override" of sorts, to allow throttle only, and then press the button again to go back to the PAS level I was at before. It's rather annoying to have to push the minus button repeatedly to get down to PAS 0 if I was up in 5 or 6 before, and need to go back to that level shortly after.
BBS02 REPROGRAMMING
There are 2 schools of thought on programming the BBS02. One school is represented by Paul (cellman) from em3ev who believes that you should make only minor changes to the software such as
• Allow higher powered throttle at any PAS level
• Allow throttle at PAS level 0 so you don’t have to disconnect the PAS entirely to use throttle only
• Low voltage cutoff (41V for 48V & 43V for 50V?)
• Amps to the unit (18A-25A?)
Quotes from Paul about the much contested PAS system
“The PAS level should be used to set the pedal cadence. Just because it’s set to 9, does not mean it will pull more power (although it likely will of course), but if you pedal fast enough and hard enough to do much of the work, the kit will not provide much power. PAS works like a switch on the BBS02. It does not adjust as you pedal faster or slower. When you set the PAS level it fixes the speed and it does not want to rotate at a speed much lower than that, or even accelerate smoothly to that speed.”
That is why setting the throttle to override the PAS setting works so well. You're cruising at speed using little power assist and want to accelerate, just hit the throttle without having to change the PAS level. Works great for hills and yellow lights. Off-road it allows you to downshift for a climb AND apply MORE power at the same time. Once you 've topped the hill, just release the throttle and up-shift, and you are right back where you were prior to the climb without ever changing the PAS level setting.

Have you got your computer to accept the COM PORT yet? We can take this conversation over to my Soma B-Side build thread if you want to discuss it more, although I won't have any hands on experience until my programming cable arrives...
Last edited by NoPhart; 05-01-17 at 08:25 AM.
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Yeah retail prices for this bike in various configurations range from 4,319L(~$5,582) to 5759L(~$7,443) for the Rohloff Speed model. Too rich for my blood as well.
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I didn't want any bike that had a proprietary motor (and in some cases battery) and especially one that is less than 750w. Both the R&M Delite and the TT Panamericana come in standard and pinion drive. I chose my Panamerican over the Delite because it carries more weight and I have never seen a single picture of one with 4 panniers.
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#47
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Couple of thoughts
The NuVinci transmission is a seriously pretty little girl that I would love to play with, but I don't believe she can take the torque that is applied by a 1 hp. motor pulling a bike that is set-up for touring. When I built my bike I had no information to go to bat on. No one on youtube or the bike forums had actually used a Rohloff, let alone the new to market NuVinci. with a center drive motor. I love the design of the NuVinci and believe they can be built to handle additional torque, but don't think they will ever match a Rohloff Speedhub for efficiency and durability.
When I chose the motor for my bike I couldn't find what I thought I wanted. U.S. made, center drive, 1 hp., pedal assist, and throttle for under $1500.00. Hub motors were out because I was looking for hill climbing ability over speed. I saw several vendors buying the BaFang 8Fun, modifying the programming, changing the paint and remarketing them for a huge profit. They all seemed to have the same goal, to get the most power out of the motor possible. I had skipped over the BaFang the 1st run through because surely the least expensive drive wouldn't be the one I wanted. After doing the research I kept coming back to the 750w BaFang. The research also showed me the best vendor to buy from and to have mount the drive. Doug Snyder at California Ebike was always at the top of my list. I had a newly purchased bike shipped to him, he mounted the drive and shipped it to me for final assembly. I immediately recognized how nice having a throttle was going to be. BaFang allows you to program their PAS or pedal assist for either 3 or 9 levels of assist. I wanted to use the minimum power assist possible to try and maximize my distance, so I set it for 9 levels. When set for PAS #1 applying the throttle gives the max level of #1 assist power. Pedaling at level #1 uses slightly less than 100% of level #1 power. I found myself bumping the throttle in between peddling to maintain a constant speed and it feels very natural. What I hadn't expected was that it would work so well with the Rohloff Speedhub, it was almost as if they were made for each other. I had bought brake levers with electric shut-off for the motor and found that they actually worked against me. With standard gears, you don't want the motor applying torque when you are changing gears. Also, when braking if you turn the crank in the slightest the motor kicks in and you jump. Bad thing when not expected. So the brake levers have cut-offs that start a multisecond delay in the motor. I hated it at intersections. I would have to wait for the power to kick back in. Being blessed in having the Rohloff drive I disconnected the shut-off in the brake levers completely. When you change gears with the Speedhub you stop peddling anyway and at intersections, I can hold the brake lever right up to the very second that I start peddling or apply the throttle. I am thinking of routing a brake lever shut-off to a button on the bars that allows me to pedal without motor assist, without having to turn the PAS to #0 or shutting the motor off. I find myself riding more and more on low and no power, carrying/towing more weight, all the time. It's all about range and hill climbing ability in touring. I wouldn't ride a bike without a throttle and yet wouldn't ride one with only a throttle either. The BaFang allows me to ride with no power assist, PAS 1-9, and/or throttle only. There are more refined PAS systems but none with as much versatility.
When I chose the motor for my bike I couldn't find what I thought I wanted. U.S. made, center drive, 1 hp., pedal assist, and throttle for under $1500.00. Hub motors were out because I was looking for hill climbing ability over speed. I saw several vendors buying the BaFang 8Fun, modifying the programming, changing the paint and remarketing them for a huge profit. They all seemed to have the same goal, to get the most power out of the motor possible. I had skipped over the BaFang the 1st run through because surely the least expensive drive wouldn't be the one I wanted. After doing the research I kept coming back to the 750w BaFang. The research also showed me the best vendor to buy from and to have mount the drive. Doug Snyder at California Ebike was always at the top of my list. I had a newly purchased bike shipped to him, he mounted the drive and shipped it to me for final assembly. I immediately recognized how nice having a throttle was going to be. BaFang allows you to program their PAS or pedal assist for either 3 or 9 levels of assist. I wanted to use the minimum power assist possible to try and maximize my distance, so I set it for 9 levels. When set for PAS #1 applying the throttle gives the max level of #1 assist power. Pedaling at level #1 uses slightly less than 100% of level #1 power. I found myself bumping the throttle in between peddling to maintain a constant speed and it feels very natural. What I hadn't expected was that it would work so well with the Rohloff Speedhub, it was almost as if they were made for each other. I had bought brake levers with electric shut-off for the motor and found that they actually worked against me. With standard gears, you don't want the motor applying torque when you are changing gears. Also, when braking if you turn the crank in the slightest the motor kicks in and you jump. Bad thing when not expected. So the brake levers have cut-offs that start a multisecond delay in the motor. I hated it at intersections. I would have to wait for the power to kick back in. Being blessed in having the Rohloff drive I disconnected the shut-off in the brake levers completely. When you change gears with the Speedhub you stop peddling anyway and at intersections, I can hold the brake lever right up to the very second that I start peddling or apply the throttle. I am thinking of routing a brake lever shut-off to a button on the bars that allows me to pedal without motor assist, without having to turn the PAS to #0 or shutting the motor off. I find myself riding more and more on low and no power, carrying/towing more weight, all the time. It's all about range and hill climbing ability in touring. I wouldn't ride a bike without a throttle and yet wouldn't ride one with only a throttle either. The BaFang allows me to ride with no power assist, PAS 1-9, and/or throttle only. There are more refined PAS systems but none with as much versatility.
#48
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When I chose the motor for my bike I couldn't find what I thought I wanted. U.S. made, center drive, 1 hp., pedal assist, and throttle for under $1500.00. Hub motors were out because I was looking for hill climbing ability over speed. I saw several vendors buying the BaFang 8Fun, modifying the programming, changing the paint and remarketing them for a huge profit. They all seemed to have the same goal, to get the most power out of the motor possible. I had skipped over the BaFang the 1st run through because surely the least expensive drive wouldn't be the one I wanted. After doing the research I kept coming back to the 750w BaFang. The research also showed me the best vendor to buy from and to have mount the drive. Doug Snyder at California Ebike was always at the top of my list. I had a newly purchased bike shipped to him, he mounted the drive and shipped it to me for final assembly. I immediately recognized how nice having a throttle was going to be. BaFang allows you to program their PAS or pedal assist for either 3 or 9 levels of assist. I wanted to use the minimum power assist possible to try and maximize my distance, so I set it for 9 levels. When set for PAS #1 applying the throttle gives the max level of #1 assist power. Pedaling at level #1 uses slightly less than 100% of level #1 power. I found myself bumping the throttle in between peddling to maintain a constant speed and it feels very natural. What I hadn't expected was that it would work so well with the Rohloff Speedhub, it was almost as if they were made for each other. I had bought brake levers with electric shut-off for the motor and found that they actually worked against me. With standard gears, you don't want the motor applying torque when you are changing gears. Also, when braking if you turn the crank in the slightest the motor kicks in and you jump. Bad thing when not expected. So the brake levers have cut-offs that start a multisecond delay in the motor. I hated it at intersections. I would have to wait for the power to kick back in. Being blessed in having the Rohloff drive I disconnected the shut-off in the brake levers completely. When you change gears with the Speedhub you stop peddling anyway and at intersections, I can hold the brake lever right up to the very second that I start peddling or apply the throttle. I am thinking of routing a brake lever shut-off to a button on the bars that allows me to pedal without motor assist, without having to turn the PAS to #0 or shutting the motor off. I find myself riding more and more on low and no power, carrying/towing more weight, all the time. It's all about range and hill climbing ability in touring. I wouldn't ride a bike without a throttle and yet wouldn't ride one with only a throttle either. The BaFang allows me to ride with no power assist, PAS 1-9, and/or throttle only. There are more refined PAS systems but none with as much versatility.
#49
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Has anyone ever seen one of these Riese Muller Intercontinental full suspension touring bikes in the USA?

This bike piques my interest, but price is likely out of this world too...

This bike piques my interest, but price is likely out of this world too...
#50
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They no longer make non-electric bikes aside from the Birdy so if you want one you'd have to buy second hand. They are quite cool though!