lmike6453

Thanks ahead of time for hearing my situation out and helping me as a noob to e-biking. I have been researching and am having a hard time deciding whether to buy a e-bike, or convert mine to a mid drive system of sorts.

I currently have a Niner RLT9 Steel 3 Star Rival build, reference: RLT 9 STEEL 3-STAR RIVAL

I put fenders on it and it's great for commuting, but takes me awhile to travel long distances. I live 24 miles from work, and want to commute at least 15 of those miles on an e-bike (I currently commute 9 and it takes me 40 mins). I currently carry a considerable amount of weight (20 lbs all in) and want to commute 5 days per week.

I like the idea of getting a separate dedicated bike, so that I have my regular bike for biking on the weekends with friends, but dislike spending $4,000 on a decent e-bike that fits my wants / needs.

This is what I think is important to me:

- Battery capacity to commute 24 miles, 1,000ft elevation on "turbo" setting (I can charge it at work).
- Mid drive solution that assists up to 28mph legal limit.
- On the quieter side of my options, if not the quietest option.
- Ability to mount on my platform hitch bike rack on car, 35lb rated limit (remove battery, or go slightly over limit).
- Ability to ride in the rain.
- Torque sensing based on rear derailleur, and cuts power to promote longer drive train life.

With this in mind, does it make more sense to spend ~$1,500 on a conversion kit, or ~$4,000 on a dedicated e-bike?

If I go the dedicated e-bike route, I was leaning toward the Trek CrossRip+:
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b.../1373000-2018/

Nightdiver

If you have the budget, I'd certainly choose the dedicated route. It will be a much nicer daily riding experience, cleaner looking, quieter, and probably a bit lighter. Sounds like you plan to use this bike daily, so I'd say it makes sense to invest in a bike that will see so much use.

For quietest operation, the Brose system is going to be hard to beat, at least until Bosch comes out with their next generation of Performance motors. But I'm not sure which bikes are available in the US with the Brose speed system. Specialized uses Brose, but I don't think they make a drop bar road type of bike (yet).

All your other criteria will be met by any of the speed pedelec systems, except for the 35lb weight limit. That one will be hard to find even once you've removed the battery. Most of these bikes will weight 45-50 lbs. The battery is about 6 lbs, so...

If speed pedelec is a hard criteria, then you're certainly going to be up in the $4k range.

Even if you decide to do the conversion thing, maybe consider getting a secondary bike anyway. It would be such a shame to tart up that beauty Niner of yours. Maybe find a used steel cross/touring bike with some beefier tubing (Surly?). Should be able to get one fairly cheap so your total investment would still be about half of purchasing a new speed pedelec.

2old

+1 on above. IMO, for reliability and durability you can't beat a dedicated OEM system (check their 2-3 year warranties compared to 3-6 months for DIY). However, don't expect a weight less than 40 pounds without battery (probably more like 45) for at least a year. The manufacturers are starting to attack the weight issue. Chas58 has a light commuter, but he's an experienced builder; look for his thread on Endless Sphere.

Rick Imby

I've ridden a lot of different e bikes. My son has a pair Giant e-bikes (2017 model e-dirt) and I built up a Bafang bbs02 mid drive on one of my old favorite mountain bikes. I would do a build---hands down. If you are willing to spend 4k for a prebuilt you could easily buy a great bike and convert. I find it hard to tell the difference between the two types of assist. I tend to ride hard with assist or without. I would not pay $5 more for a bike with torque sensing--I see no benefit.

I have never ridden a mid drive that was not quiet. The wind noise on any bike above 10 mph will over ride any noise out of any of the e bikes I have ridden---(around 20 different bikes).

Riding without power---I have ridden my bafang bbs02 without power and it works fine. The Bosch system has such a small front cog it is horrible for riding with a dead battery.

I would go with a Mountain bike conversion for several reasons. When you double your average speed from 14 to 28 mph you want awesome disc brakes and wider tires for better traction and softer ride. I want front suspension also. I also went with a suspension seatpost. Higher speed makes a huge difference.

The difference between my son's ebike and mine---I used a $1200 used bike ( worth about $350 used) + 1000 in bafang bbso2 and big battery and aluminum chainring and charger-install $150 equal $1500.

I can easily reprogram my bike for higher speed. I have significantly more power. My bike is a couple pounds lighter. I can easily set mine up as a speeder or as a mountain bike. My battery has way more capacity.

My sons bike $2900. His is a mountain bike that also rolls around town at 20 mph or works well on legal trails. He loves his bike also.

For what he paid for his I can have one for me and one for my girlfriend....

2old

Obviously you're going to get many different opinions. Probably I've ridden at least 50 different e-bikes and agree that all were very quiet. My experience after owning front hub, rear hub, BB02's and OEM mid-drive is that for commuting, for me, where reliability is paramount, the OEM is superior, albeit more expensive.

lmike6453

Thank you all. I think I am going to go with the Crossrip+ and scheduled a time to test ride it tomorrow.

They make it n 55cm and 58cm and cant figure out which size is my best fit. They only have the 55cm in stock. I am torso long:

- 6'0
- 31/32 inseam
- 34/35 shirt sleeve length

Suggestions? My current bike is a 56cm.

Nightdiver

For sizing, compare your current reach/stack and head/seat angles to the Crossrip geometry to determine fit. Also, is the store you're visiting an exclusive Trek store, or do they have other brands? If they have more ebikes, maybe you can try out some other systems.

msbiker

Why do think you need to spend $4,000 for an ebike? A little internet shopping will come up with several options for a quality ebike for a lot less than $4,000. For instance, depending on your size you can order a new 2016 haibike (400 wh battery) with a yamaha motor for less than $2,000 and one with a bosch for about $2,500. Lots of deals available and 2017 models will start to go on sale pretty soon. And there is always room for one more bike in the garage.

Nightdiver

Do they meet the OP's requirements? If so, an s-pedelec for $2500 is a great price!

Bizman

There are allot of good answers/opinions here, I will add mine. I own an Easy Motion Max 700 mid drive with a 250 w motor and 12 ah battery. This was my first ebike I got in 2013. It has been a great bike and now is my dedicated winter bike with studded tires. This is a $3000 bike as stock but I built it up custom with IGH, dyno lights, rack, panniers and use it for my bad weather commutes. I don't use the motor that much and pedaling with the motor off feels (to me) like a regular bike

I just built up a Jones Plus bike with LEAP extension and Bafang BBSHD mid drive motor and 20 ah battery, creating a cargo bike. The motor and battery was around $1400, the bike I chose and LEAP extension added some substantcial cost but this bike is my most comfortable 2 wheeled bike (my Surly Moonlander is now my second most comfortable 2 wheeled bike). You could use this motor/battery setup (or go with smaller motor/battery to save money) using a bike of your choice and type of riding and have a very nice ebike with GOOD power for less than most OEM bikes.

If I had to do it again I would go the Bafang route, it just seems like you get more for your $$$'s! Good luck in your shopping!

Nelson37

For speeds at 28 mph, for a regular commute, up north, with traffic, there is absolutely NWIH I would use a bike with no front suspension. It is less a comfort issue than one of pure safety. I was amazed how much just a slight increase in speed increased the force of road bumps, etc., you are talking about doubling your current speed. Chas58 does it, on quiet, smooth country roads. I have good roads and would not go much over 20 on a rigid fork.

Your weight goal is going to be hard to reach. Get a better rack, or ride the whole way.

The ultimate in reliable e-biking is the direct drive hub motor. Heavy, but extremely low failure rate, almost always resulting in a pedal-able bike. Geared motors fail a bit more often, but are lighter in general and also usually have more torque.

Mid-drives climb better, in general, but you are riding the hills already and mid-drives put excess stress on the drive-train, leading to issues and when they fail, often the bike can not be pedaled. Good fun bike, but not my choice for a reliable commuter.

If you build it yourself, you get to choose all components to suit your needs and will be more likely to be able to repair it yourself. Pre-built you take the closest they have and at least you will always know where to find someone you can pay to fix it for you, if the dealer is still in business.

In terms of service availability and ability to get replacement parts, "proprietary" systems are ALWAYS bad.

Verify carefully that you can charge at work, get a second charger as they do not travel very well. Get at least one that can charge to 80%, 90%, or 100%.

If going to remove battery 100-200 times a year, make certain you have easily replaceable connectors on BOTH battery and mount, or between battery and controller. Buy one or two full sets at time of purchase, ESPECIALLY if pre-build, or purchase crimping tool and soldering iron and standard connector and housing blanks.

chas58

Good choice, you are going to have so much fun on that if you get it.
The shop should do a fitting with you. But a 55cm frame with a stem that is 10cm longer than the stem on your 56mm frame will have the same cockpit length.


I do rather like road bikes with 32-38mm tires for commuting. But that does assume one is an active rider, knows how to road bike, knows how to ride light, and doesn't just steam roll over over things that you can do with a mountain bike. Its a different kind of riding.

While that sweet Niner looks to me like the perfect platform for a conversion, I don't think you can really mount a hub motor to that, and you would have to check to see if a mid drive would mount well. I did build a 27mph bike for a 24mile commute, and I love it.

angerdan

You asked this question in three separate threads, so people don't know about your expectations.
Also it's sure that you have to double your budget or weight limit.
What to look for in an e-bike
Mid Drive Conversion or Buy a Separate Pre-Built eBike? Already have a good bike...
e-Bike Commuting: Buy a Pre-Built eBike or Conversion? Already have a good bike...

All Pedelecs with Bosch motor do weight at least 22kg including battery. So without battery still 19,5kg.
https://www.ebike-base.com/search/advanced-search/

lmike6453

I ended up picking up the Trek Crossrip+ in 55cm version after test riding it and then working with their fit guy. I brought my existing bike in where we compared geometries and a 55cm was surprisingly perfect.

It feels great and I can commute much longer distances now for the time I'm spending on the bike!

2old

Good luck with the bike; IMO, you made an excellent choice. I rode a 2017 Trek 28 mph city-style bike and it was exceptional.

Rick Imby

Have fun...