Yes all 4 wires are individually soldered to the battery cradle on the bike then the battery locks onto the cradle.

Yes battery came with charger , bike does have a display monitor,

Good, progress. First, make certain that the wires on the cradle are not joined or paired in any way. Should be 4 separate solder pads and 4 or more connectors on the cradle.

Now, search that frame! Charging port, or rocker switch? Possibly both. Should be close to battery mount on frame.

There is a third possibility of powered lighting, either from the factory or user-installed.

None of the half-dozen or so wiring diagrams I looked at show this, but these were similar but non-identical Currie models prior to 2013, or 2017 and later. 2014-2016 appears to be an informational black hole. That is the period when the company restructured, or changed ownership. Possibly twice. Your model, the Currie Izip E3 Dash, was introduced in 2015 or possibly 2014. It is dramatically changed in 2017 and now bears little to no resemblance to what you have.

There are good odds the wires are for an on-board charger, which you can simply cut off and stuff back into the frame. They can be safely ignored.

The on/off switch is a bit more complex to deal with, strategies will vary depending on whether or not the new battery has a built-in power switch. If you find a rocker switch and no charger port on the frame, the above will become a question I need an answer for.

Lvic28, is this the same battery?
https://electricbikereview.com/forum...-charger.8392/

The suggested method of operation for the battery ports contained in that thread is almost insanely inaccurate.

Yes it was.

Yes that looks like the stock battery that comes with the bike originally

Here's my thoughts from the measurements in the link.

1. The two pairs SHOULD BE either A-B and C-D, adjacent, or A-D and C-B, Inner/Outer.

2. At least one on these pairs MUST BE full pack voltage.

3. B-C gives the only close reading, 44V, reasonable for a partially discharged pack.

Now, that leaves A-D, which gave a dramatically different reading. Contrary to the posted musings, batteries almost exclusively have only one output reading. A switch output might have low-amperage wiring, but should have been at the same pack voltage. The same should hold true of any sort of output port.

That leaves only an input port.

I do know that various BMS will give readings, at the input port, that differ substantially from full pack voltage.

I find myself idly wondering what exactly happens if you connect the output of the battery to the charge port. Slowly run dead, I guess.

Currie never used any sensors of any kind on either battery or motor, within the documented years, that I saw.

Still, look on the frame for that charge port, or perhaps a round hole where one used to be.

Should also locate the controller access panel, or determine that there is not one for future issues.

What was outcome?
 

Did you ever get a non-stock battery to work in your bike without the blue and white wires connected?