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Old 11-08-18, 12:54 PM
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restlessswind
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Thoughts on new Ebike

I bought an ebike, and I posted on a thread about it. I was accused of marketing. Well, I wasn't. I was sharing a find.
Anyway, I would like to discuss it, my findings, and optional improvement ideas, but I really don't want to deal with "Ignorance" bashing and flames. Is this a place I can find useful information? I'm an entry level on these, and donn't claim to know a whole lot. Is it safe to mention the make/model without being accused of trying to sell one?
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Old 11-09-18, 08:30 AM
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Whatever negative comments were posted on your Ride1up City bike comments must have been pulled. It looked like a good deal to me,
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Old 11-09-18, 01:20 PM
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Thanks, I certainly am not trying to plug it as a sales pitch. I only bought it, and want to discuss some issues....As like it isn't geared high enough to keep up with the pedaling resistance after about 17 or 18 mph.. on the higher end of the PA modes.
I found a freewheel with an 11 tooth small cog, and was wondering if it would fit and actually make much of a difference?
This is the only one I can find with less than 14 teeth https://www.jensonusa.com/DNP-Epoch-7-Speed-Freewheel
Or should I add a larger ring gear/front derailleur. (Chain line issues?) or both?
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Old 11-09-18, 05:56 PM
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That's a common problem where the gearing doesn't support the pedal cadence for higher ebike speeds. I've put two of those DNP 11T freewheels on my folding ebikes which have 20" wheels. The DNP's have a reputation amongst road bikers for wearing out fast, but road bikers also talk about wearing out their chains. I doubt I will wear either the cgain or gears out, but it's certainly possible for a strong rider.

I have a couple of 26" mountain style bikes (motorized too) that only have a small 14T gear and while it would be nice to lower the cadence, I've haven't bothered. If I did, I would get a bigger front gear. I'm not sure what's standard, but mine are either 42T or 44T for the big gear. Road bikes are more like 52T.

Both approaches require buying tools. You'll need a free wheel puller to change the freewheel or a crank puller to do the crankset gears. Some day you will have to change the rear tire and learn the nuances of the hub motor removal. If your motor cable goes thru the axle nuts, it needs to unplug to change the free wheel. Given that I don't know how your bike is put together, it's easier to suggest changing the front crankset.
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Old 11-11-18, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Wui View Post
That's a common problem where the gearing doesn't support the pedal cadence for higher ebike speeds. I've put two of those DNP 11T freewheels on my folding ebikes which have 20" wheels. The DNP's have a reputation amongst road bikers for wearing out fast, but road bikers also talk about wearing out their chains. I doubt I will wear either the cgain or gears out, but it's certainly possible for a strong rider.

I have a couple of 26" mountain style bikes (motorized too) that only have a small 14T gear and while it would be nice to lower the cadence, I've haven't bothered. If I did, I would get a bigger front gear. I'm not sure what's standard, but mine are either 42T or 44T for the big gear. Road bikes are more like 52T.

Both approaches require buying tools. You'll need a free wheel puller to change the freewheel or a crank puller to do the crankset gears. Some day you will have to change the rear tire and learn the nuances of the hub motor removal. If your motor cable goes thru the axle nuts, it needs to unplug to change the free wheel. Given that I don't know how your bike is put together, it's easier to suggest changing the front crankset.
Thanks. I'm a bit of a wrench. I have the tools. I am just concerned about buying nonreturnable parts. My concern is the spacing for adding a big ring gear. Since there is a cadence sensor in the BB spundle, are crankset fits going to be a challenge?
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Old 11-11-18, 03:37 PM
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If the bike has a standard crank and enough extra chain to fit a bigger chain-ring, personally I’d do that. It’s very simple and I feel the parts dealt with are more easily removed. Removing freewheels can be a real pita and they’re more easily stripped when tools slide off of the prongs, etc. I’d also take a look at the space between the inner part of the freewheel and the axle. How much room do you have? Enough for an 11t freewheel? If so, it should work?
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Old 11-13-18, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 3speed View Post
If the bike has a standard crank and enough extra chain to fit a bigger chain-ring, personally I’d do that. It’s very simple and I feel the parts dealt with are more easily removed. Removing freewheels can be a real pita and they’re more easily stripped when tools slide off of the prongs, etc. I’d also take a look at the space between the inner part of the freewheel and the axle. How much room do you have? Enough for an 11t freewheel? If so, it should work?
Easiest way to get a freewheel off is to mount the socket (tool) in a vise, faced up, then set the wheel into the tool, and crank the wheel. It works every time, even old, rusty bikes. The axle needs to be removed before attempting to remove the freewheel. I just wonder if the 11t freewheel can interfere with the axle nuts and cone?
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Old 11-14-18, 08:02 AM
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11t small cog would allow more clearance between chain and frame, it would not interfere with axle nuts and cone.
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Old 11-14-18, 10:46 AM
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You would have to make sure that the new chainwheel will clear the frame. It's a straight forward measurement if you know the diameter or you can figure it out prior if you know the teeth on old/new.

Cadence magnet disks are usually mounted on the BB axle, so removal of the crank shouldm't affect that unless the new crank slips in further and hits the .disk. As a DIY guy, I've had a few bikes where there wasn't enough space to add the disk by the crank.

The advantage from going from 14T to 11T is 27%. You would have to swap a 46T crank to 58T to get that same multiple. I guess a feewheel is preferred.
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Old 11-14-18, 02:36 PM
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so I have a ride1up as well, I did swap out the freewheel. note I said Freewheel. a cassette has the 11t option not so much with freewheels. I am also toying with the idea of swapping in a road double crankset in from, several ebike companies use the same frame and the frame already has the wire guides for the shift cables in place. i am waiting to do the upgrade gearing until after I source a higher wattage battery i would drain my battery well before i arrived at my destination. if i used the highest level as it now stands,
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Old 11-14-18, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by restlessswind View Post
Thanks. I'm a bit of a wrench. I have the tools. I am just concerned about buying nonreturnable parts. My concern is the spacing for adding a big ring gear. Since there is a cadence sensor in the BB spundle, are crankset fits going to be a challenge?
Good questions. I'm assuming you have a 7 speed screw on type freewheel?

The DNP is a good option, with an 11T small gear. I use a shimano - the smallest they make is 13t. Supposedly its more reliable than the DNP, but that is just hearsay. Wear tends to be more of an issue below 14t, but that depends on how hard you are pedaling.

I also put a 53t chainring on my custom build. Definitely check for clearance - its a pretty big ring. But if it fits, it could minimize chain and sprocket wear.

For reference: I like to get some aerobic exercise on my bike. I cruise at about 25mph, Single speed 53tx17t - roughly 100rpm cadence.
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Old 11-14-18, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nasabiker View Post
so I have a ride1up as well, I did swap out the freewheel. note I said Freewheel. a cassette has the 11t option not so much with freewheels. I am also toying with the idea of swapping in a road double crankset in from, several ebike companies use the same frame and the frame already has the wire guides for the shift cables in place. i am waiting to do the upgrade gearing until after I source a higher wattage battery i would drain my battery well before i arrived at my destination. if i used the highest level as it now stands,
There is one 11t option for a freewheel that I found.

See: https://www.jensonusa.com/DNP-Epoch-7-Speed-Freewheel

I thought that certain cranks require certain spindle lengths, even on the same width bottom bracket? I think I'll start with the freewheel

I get 25 miles on highest PAS. I'd probably get more if I can add some muscle to the cranks. I ride 12 each way (to and from work) and charge at the office. My goal for getting this bike was to shorten the commute in the hot summer sizzle. I'm not thrilled with that gaping hole at the lower end of the downtube. What's your thought?

I prefer my conventional bike for leisure.
When I move to Humboldt County in a few years, I plan on getting a lighter, decent, torque-sensing, mid-drive dual sport for all the hills there. That will be my retirement gift to myself
Sorry, I digress...

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Old 11-14-18, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Wui View Post
You would have to make sure that the new chainwheel will clear the frame. It's a straight forward measurement if you know the diameter or you can figure it out prior if you know the teeth on old/new.

Cadence magnet disks are usually mounted on the BB axle, so removal of the crank shouldm't affect that unless the new crank slips in further and hits the .disk. As a DIY guy, I've had a few bikes where there wasn't enough space to add the disk by the crank.

The advantage from going from 14T to 11T is 27%. You would have to swap a 46T crank to 58T to get that same multiple. I guess a feewheel is preferred.
Thank you!!!
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Old 11-14-18, 11:27 PM
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I had forgotten one thing about changing the freewheel. If your motor cable comes out of the axle on the freewheel side, then you'll need to be able to unplug the cable and run it thru the axle nuts/washers and the freewheel. You'll also need a freewheel tool that allows the cable to slide thru.

A lot of commercial bikes and some DIY bikes use a male 9 pin motor connector. These will go thru a Park Fr-1.3 as in my picture. I've heard some outfits, like RAD, use a female plug that won't go thru the hole, and need a different tool. And some DIY kits use box connectors that force you to remove the pins if you want to remove the freewheel.

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Old 11-14-18, 11:40 PM
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Restlesswind,, what gaping hole at bottom of downtube did you mean?
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Old 11-15-18, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Wui View Post
I had forgotten one thing about changing the freewheel. If your motor cable comes out of the axle on the freewheel side, then you'll need to be able to unplug the cable and run it thru the axle nuts/washers and the freewheel. You'll also need a freewheel tool that allows the cable to slide thru.
My biggest problem was the removal tool did not fit over the large axle on the motor. I had to drill it out - it was some pretty tough steel to drill...
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Old 11-15-18, 01:08 PM
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The Park FR1-3 is supposed to fit a 14mm axle.
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Old 11-15-18, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by restlessswind View Post
There is one 11t option for a freewheel that I found.

See: https://www.jensonusa.com/DNP-Epoch-7-Speed-Freewheel

I thought that certain cranks require certain spindle lengths, even on the same width bottom bracket? I think I'll start with the freewheel

I get 25 miles on highest PAS. I'd probably get more if I can add some muscle to the cranks. I ride 12 each way (to and from work) and charge at the office. My goal for getting this bike was to shorten the commute in the hot summer sizzle. I'm not thrilled with that gaping hole at the lower end of the downtube. What's your thought?

I prefer my conventional bike for leisure.
When I move to Humboldt County in a few years, I plan on getting a lighter, decent, torque-sensing, mid-drive dual sport for all the hills there. That will be my retirement gift to myself
Sorry, I digress...
That's pretty good mileage, I'm a big guy and lots oh hills so I don't get that with the 10.4ah battery. I'm not sure what hole your talking about? my only issue right now is ALOT of broken spoks.
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Old 11-15-18, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Wui View Post
Restlesswind,, what gaping hole at bottom of downtube did you mean?
Below the controller, where the wires come out, in front of the bottom bracket, on the belly. It's a mud trap
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Old 11-15-18, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nasabiker View Post
That's pretty good mileage, I'm a big guy and lots oh hills so I don't get that with the 10.4ah battery. I'm not sure what hole your talking about? my only issue right now is ALOT of broken spoks.
Its a fairly flat commute.
Broken spokes? Easy riding? Rough driing? That would piss me off!
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Old 11-15-18, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by restlessswind View Post
Below the controller, where the wires come out, in front of the bottom bracket, on the belly. It's a mud trap
For wires coming out of the controller box itself, those are usually sealed with silicone.Can't let any water get inside. Very rarely do these boxes get opened up.

If it's wires just going thru the frame, I guess I would cover with duct tape. Messy but would keep the mud off and you always clean with Goo Gone. if youhave todo something.

Broken spokes is often sloppy assembly. A good wheel trueing on delivery would take care of that.
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Old 11-17-18, 08:38 PM
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The elitists and poseurs who scoff at inevitable change tell people to do things the hard way because they’ve always been done that way and they’re afraid to embrace change.

E-biking takes the drudgery and hassle out of traditional cycling and makes it convenient and fun. Why would anyone be a killjoy about it? New technology makes our lives easier and more enjoyable .- that’s why inventions come along no one thought would change our lives.

The e-bike is that development. In a few decades, it will become mainstream. People want to enjoy cycling with less effort and they want a smarter - not harder - way to take advantage of the outdoors.
And they will wonder why it wasn’t available before. In short, traditional biking will still have its place but e-biking will be the future of the bicycle.
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