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Advice On Rear Brushless Motor

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Advice On Rear Brushless Motor

Old 03-17-22, 08:48 AM
  #1  
The Big Wheel
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Lightbulb Advice On Rear Brushless Motor

I currently have a BAFANG 48V 500W Front Hub Motor that I installed on my Yuba Mundo. I went with a front kit on this bike for better weight distribution since it's a cargo bike, the front forks are steel and the rear wheel has a weird size axle that would make it difficult for a noob to install a rear kit.




This is the kit I got for the cargo bike:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I recently bought a Sun EZ Classic bent, I got the aluminum version over the steel version which means I have to go with the rear motor kit (or middrive, but I read that with middrive you have to change the chain a lot more often as it puts a lot of stress on everything).





I found this version of the Bafang rear kit (it's basically just like the front kit except made for the rear wheel):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4T5MQK...v_ov_lig_dp_it


The only thing is, 500w is enough for the cargo bike, I can max out at 25 mph and most of the time I am running errands on it or taking my 7 year old daughter to school or grandsparent's house, etc, so I usually go 15 to 20mph anyways.

But with the bent, I'm itching to go a little faster...I'm looking for a 750w or even a 1000w kit that is:

1) On Amazon
2) Brushless
3) Just as easy to install as the Bafang kit

I should also mention that I am using a 52v battery (instead of 48v) on the cargo bike and maybe that's why the power feels adequate (I know a lot of folks will say 500w is not enough). Or maybe I should just go with the Bafang rear 500w kit?
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Old 03-25-22, 06:03 PM
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unterhausen
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Old 03-26-22, 07:58 PM
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I noticed the Sunseeker has a 20" rear wheel? One critera for a 20' hubmotor is its winding speed. When mounted in a smaller wheel, you need a higher RPM motor because the smaller wheel turns faster. The same motor that goes 25 mph in a 26" wheel will probably be unsuited for a 20" wheel. Typically, the 26"-29" wheel has a 220 rpm motor, where the 20" is 260 -320 rpm. Hopefully, the seller knows this,
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Old 03-27-22, 06:21 PM
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Looks like the seller, Junstar, answers questions. Ask them the question DW posed. The slower motor almost certainly goes < 20 mph, while the faster one is probably around 25 - 27. Look at the simulator at ebikesca and ask at endless sphere. I think you might need a big hub motor or Cyclone mid-drive to achieve the speeds you're seeking with a 20" wheel, then get ready for insane acceleration.
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Old 03-27-22, 06:35 PM
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dont freak out on chains. on my bosch powered bike Get 2500.00 on a regular kmc 10 speed chain and I got 12,000 on my drivetrain before I had to change the cogs and chainring. I think I was on my 9th chain.
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Old 03-28-22, 12:18 AM
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A mid drive is the most suitable for BOTH bikes.

-SP
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Old 03-28-22, 05:13 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by fooferdoggie View Post
dont freak out on chains. on my bosch powered bike Get 2500.00 on a regular kmc 10 speed chain and I got 12,000 on my drivetrain before I had to change the cogs and chainring. I think I was on my 9th chain.
2500 km or miles?
12,000 on drivetrain.. km or miles?
9th chain? You've replaced chain 8 times before you replace the rest of the drivetrain?

Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
A mid drive is the most suitable for BOTH bikes.

-SP
Why do you think that is?
have you ridden hub motor on both bikes to give a decent comparison?
What type of riding have you done on both types of bikes?
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Old 03-28-22, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cat0020 View Post
2500 km or miles?
12,000 on drivetrain.. km or miles?
9th chain? You've replaced chain 8 times before you replace the rest of the drivetrain?



Why do you think that is?
have you ridden hub motor on both bikes to give a decent comparison?
What type of riding have you done on both types of bikes?
miles. yep on the 9th chain the chainring was pretty noisy and the chain jammed a little a couple of times. I replaced the chain as soon as it hit .5 on my park gauge. I think the cassette may have gone a bit longer shifting was a little rough but that was it.
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Old 03-28-22, 07:54 AM
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As above, if you're conscientious about chain wear, you can get a lot of miles from a drivetrain by replacing the chain at 0.5. I tend to wait until the shifting is atrocious, then change everything. Different strokes.....
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Old 03-28-22, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 2old View Post
As above, if you're conscientious about chain wear, you can get a lot of miles from a drivetrain by replacing the chain at 0.5. I tend to wait until the shifting is atrocious, then change everything. Different strokes.....
thats a lot of money there, I was pretty impressed How long the components lasted. my chain ring is 18t as bosch uses gearing and its hardened steel. it showed no wear but it was an issue. I also ride 9000 miles a year the cost for a new drivetrain would be crazy. its bad enough to spend as much as I do on chains and brake pads and tires every year about 1000.00 between my commuter and tandem.
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Old 03-28-22, 08:25 AM
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As I said, and not to argue, but I ride my ebikes once or twice a week so no big deal on wear; the drivetrains last indefinitely since they receive little mileage. I ride MTB at least three times a week with my wife (2,500 miles a year or so) and our drivetrains last three or so years until totally destroyed. By then we're tired of them anyway. Now that we're both riding 12 speeds, I might be more diligent since components are more expensive than our old 9-speed.
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Old 03-28-22, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 2old View Post
As I said, and not to argue, but I ride my ebikes once or twice a week so no big deal on wear; the drivetrains last indefinitely since they receive little mileage. I ride MTB at least three times a week with my wife (2,500 miles a year or so) and our drivetrains last three or so years until totally destroyed. By then we're tired of them anyway. Now that we're both riding 12 speeds, I might be more diligent since components are more expensive than our old 9-speed.
that would not be so bad and I would do the same. I had no idea I would spend so much riding. but the miles add up fast.
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Old 03-28-22, 08:58 PM
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I have a Sun EZ Sport that was converted into an e-bike last year. I started out with a 1000W motor, but the problem with that was between its weight and the frame weight, it was just too heavy. Mounting that bike on the bike rack on back of the car was a challenge in itself. It had plenty of speed, but that isn't worth the weight factor.The first motor had a good price, but I ended up spending a bit more and going to a 500W Bafang, the same as the DF frame that was converted. It works fine with that setup. With the open frame on the EZ Sport, it is fairly easy to get the battery and controller mounted. It can hit 25 easily, but I keep it within a legal speed, especially on the trails. Slower there depending on the trail usage that day. The padded seat makes those wooden bridge decks much easier to go across!! On exercise with e-bikes, you get plenty of it! We went on a ride with some relatives on the Grand Illinois Trail by Quad Cities. The motor is an assist for me.

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