The7:
Confirmed 5 thin wires for hall effect and 3 thicker wires - yellow, green and blue -
for phase (as you suggested, I assume). I wired these to the corresponding YGB connectors from the controller. To jump ahead, you think the colors are wrong and it is wired out of phase .

IMO you have not addressed how many minutes your battery will operate at the correct voltage by discharging it with a 10 amp light bulb load.Try three 12 volt light bulbs in series.You need to look in to the batteries FIRST!

To EbikeHawaii:
I feel I have totally ruled out batteries as the problem. As I described above, I have 5 SLA 12V 12ah batteries, all new. The initial reported problems were with batteries AB&C in series. When batteries as the source of the problem was suggested I wired up batteries DE&A and then DE&C and got the same result as with AB&C. The batteries were from 3 suppliers. I'm willing to take a chance that the skillion to one chance that A&C are both defective doesn't hold water. Thanks for your help .

Good. Let us start to find the fault.
1) It seems that it is wired correctly. Otherwise, the drive wheel will not be turned by the motor.
2) There could be a faulty Hall sensor and/or a faulty winding.
3) Disconnect all the motor wiring from the controller.
4) Use the low OHM range to measure the resistance between any two phases (thick wires) of the motor winding: Ryb; Rbg and Rgy. The values should be very low and equal.
5) Use high OHM range to any of these thick wires to the motor casing. The value should be very high (ideally infinitive).
6) Also use high OHM range to anf of these thin wires to the motor casing. The value should be very high (ideally infinitive).
7) If ALL (4), (5) and (6) pass. Then reconnect all the wirings back to controller.
8) Turn the POWER on but no throttle.
9) Measure the voltage across the thin red and black wires. It should be about 5V dc.
10) Measure the voltage across the thin yellow and back wires. Turn the drive wheel BACKWARD very slowly. The voltage should be alternating between LOW (nearly 0V) and HIGH (nearly 5V)!. If it does, the yellow Hall sensor is good.
11) Repeat (10) for blue and black wires to check the blue Hall sensor.
12) Repeat (10) for green and black wires to check the green Hall sensor.
13) Report the results for further actions.

I will watch this thread with interest as I can see no way to achieve the level of voltage drop other than battery or connection that would not generate massive heat levels.
Wild guesstimate the batteries should not sag that much even at 30 amps, now times 36 volts thats over a kilowatt of energy to dump with out major heat generation?

Unless you actually test your batteries your wasting everyones time.

The 7:

#4: My meters residual resistance reading varies between 0.3 and 0.5 Ohms, actual measurement on the RGYs are 0.6, 0.7 and 0.9 Ohms for a net of 0.3-0.4 Ohms.

#5-6: Both >40M

#9-12: all measure 4.88V from the Controller,
THERE IS NO V VARIATION TURNING THE WHEEL BACKWARDS, IT DOESN'T FLUCTUATE FROM 4.88V.



To EbikeHawaii and the other battery guys:

Hey guys, I really, truly do appreciate your help. Please don't give up on me.
I have to do something first and thought I had easily eliminated the batteries without going out and buying various supplies to do your tests. I now have the bulb holders, (3) 100W bulbs and necessary alligator clips to test the batteries though I'm not clear on how I'm supposed to detect change. Are the 100W bulbs OK?

Motor windings seem OK.

Some things went very wrong here! Because it is very unlikely ALL sensors went BAD at the same time.
Did you do step (7) - connecting the Hall sensor plug to the controller for these measurements?

So, is the Hall sensor plug the 5 wire harness that I was measuring? If I plug it into the 5 wire harness that leads to the drive wheel I don't see how to take voltage measurements of the thin Black to thin YGB wires.

P.S. I was measuring the 5 wire harness that comes from the controller while not plugged into it's corresponding harness that leads to the drive wheel.

Attached is photo of J3 Controller

Yes, you need to plug it the 5 wires harness to the drive wheel. Use metal pins or needles to touch the connectors for the measurement.

Could you take a photo to show the data on your Controller?

Where did you buy the new J3 controller and what is the cost?

EV Parts - they are a Currie dealer and special ordered it for me - they ordered an extra one that is on the web site:

https://www.evparts.com/shopping/?id=262

bottom of page, about $52 incl. shipping, if I remember right.

I'll get on the pin bridge thing today of in the morning.
Thanks,
Dennis

It seems that your 36V controller looks like my 24V controller.

Could you take a photo to show the data of the manufacturer of your controller?

If you have a brushless motor and you have a brushed CONTROLLER no wonder you are having problems.
"6 pin connector from motor, only uses 5, has 3 wire from throttle "
3 wires from the throttle and 2 to the motor= 5 Where are the 5 hall sensor wires for the motor and the 3 phase wires to the motor? Does your brushless motor already have a internal controller? LOL

I don't have a digital camera but the nomenclature is "3615DLC-11G0" and below "S.N. N12C6F071720" I would assume that the initial 36 indicates a 36V controller.

I don't have any idea how many wires are required to control a Hall Effect Throttle.
Seems I recall reading on the ScootOnThis website that there were 6 wire Hall controllers that weren't compatible with 5 wire Hall controllers (from Currie) I'll check. Anyone else chime in? Are 6 necessary for Hall effect?

Meanwhile I have a 100W bulb chugging away on one of the 12V batteries. Voltage has dropped from 12.65 to 12.52 in an hour.

I broke one of the CEQ@#$B leads to the Hall Connecter trying to get those VF^$(G!# readings. I'll fix it in the morning.

That's a bulb that consumes 100W power at 120V?

On the left side of the Controller it says <22"> and then some Chinese after that.
I just checked the Currie Mongoose site and the J# is the only bike that uses 22" wheels. I think it is the right controller.

Unless you KNOW what you have it's like pissing into the wind.How many wires come out of the motor ??

Sorry to say, Currie does NOT make any hub motors.

But my Schwinn AL1020 uses an brushless, geared hub motor with internal freewheel which looks identical to IZIP EZGO.

Great mabe the first guy posting can fix his ebike now. LMAO

To EbikeHawaii:
All you have to do is go to the Currie Tech / Mongoose Web site and check out the tech specs to see that Currie does indeed make brushless hub motors.

The 7:
I have stripped down the bike and retraced the wires that lead to the controller. I have removed extra wires that applied to equipment I didn't replace on the bike. It is possible that I had the thing miss wired . I can't see the connector in your photo you labeled "Throttle". Is it a small black 3 wire male YBlkR connector? I have an unused connector on my controller like that (as well as a black wire "bayonet" with green housing - like phase wires only male). Anyway - on the small black unused connector - I have an unused female small black connector that leads to the brake assy next to the throttle. I have an unused 3 wire small black female connector that leads to the throttle assy. In other words, beside the actual rear brake wire near the throttle assy I have two small black connectors that I wasn't using. They are both RGBlk which doesn't match the spare YBlkR small black connector on the controller. What should I hook up?