Patriot

I started this thread in the road forum, but since I have finally decided this is going to be an Ebike, I'll repost it here, and continue with it, since I just bought my Crystalyte 5303 hub motor.

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I have no idea what I'm doing. In fact, I think I've lost it.

I have spent the last couple of days trying to figure out where to start a thread for this project. Then it dawned on me. I have no idea what I'm doing. This piece of old school steel started off as a Peugot roadie from the mid 70's. I think it's a UO-8 that has some nice shiney Mafac Racer brakes. I still have all the old parts, but the bits are virtually junk. The hubs and rims are good, but the rims are chrome steel, and weigh more than the tracks of an M-1 Abrams. They also don't work well when wet.

I've been trying to decide exactly what to do. So far, my idea is leaning towards a newer 8s FB roadie. However, I plan on using some beefier wheels. 29'ers perhaps.

So, I guess it could go in the cyclo-cross Forum? No. Definitely not.

The Touring forum? Nah, don't plan on alot of touring.

Then I thought, maybe another commuter? Commuter forum?....... Nope. Did that with my old Centurion.

I may even make an E-bike out of it, if I get the moolah for the motor. Then it goes in the E-bike forum. Well.... no. That's not a rock solid endeavor either.

Then I thought that since it's vintage, it should be in the Vintage Forum. Well.... no. It does have a more modern 8s group I plan to install, with brand spankin' new wheels. So, it doesn't seem to fit there either.

I have to do some drilling, boss installing, and cable stop brazing, so it could go into the Framebuilders forum. Nah, not enough prying eyes. I am a Poseur after all.

Well......

I figure, since it started as an old road bike, I'll post it in the forum where I started my life as a cyclist as well.

Where we end up from here, is anybody's guess.



First, we started with an old 1970's Peugot road Bike.





All stripped, and the chrome forks polished.

Patriot

Got some parts.

A French threaded BB pieced together from various parts.



A cheap but bombproof steel ringed triple crank for long hills.



And the original old set of Mafac Racer center-pull brakes.

Patriot

Quick update:

Well, the frame is painted and first clear coats applied. I need to add decals now. Then, final clear coating. I painted the stem too. The original alloy finish was shot, so I smoothed it out, and painted it. The old alloy wouldn't polish worth a darn.

I pulled the bars off my old Specialized MTB. I think I may use them. As a mater of fact, as this project moves along, I'm thinkin' Flat Bar Roadie. Maybe even an E-Bike. I've been reading up on the tech, in the E-bike forum. Quite the projects those fellas get themselves into. If that is the case, I'll eventually move this project to the Electric Bike forum. But, for now, since it's technically still in the roadie category, I'll keep it here.

Anyway, here's the latest progress.







Yes, it's Fire Engine Red, with some cosmic sparkle.

If they don't see me comin', they really are BLIND!!!

Patriot

Built my first wheel.

Used the old Normandy hub, some new DT Champion 15ga spokes, brass nips, and a cheap Alex DM18 heavy duty rim. Definitely not the lightest, but this thing is built for heavy duty use.

Patriot

I just got done clear coating with the new decals. The frame is now complete, and ready for assembly.

If you'll notice, there is a very soft blueish hue in the red. That's from a coat of Gem Sapphire I added just prior to clear coating.











I didn't like the original headtube decal, because it has a red background. So, I made my own custom with a lion facing to the left, instead of the right. I found it on the internet. I think it was used on some limitted bike, or maybe even an old car.

Patriot

Movin' right along.

As you can see, I have installed a set of chrome plated headlights. I know this sounds odd, but they are a set of commercial grade chrome plated drain pipes. I got them for free from work. Size MR11 halogen bulbs fit perfectly into these pipes with the collars screwed on. I also soldered some caps on the backs. They're heavier than aluminum light bodies, but they will never rust, and they are easy to drill through to run wires. Also, they will never melt. Plus, I love the real CHROME.



Here's my computer. I like the fact that it has a thermometer, which helps alot for commuting in cold weather. Nice to know how frozen I am.



I plan on installing 2x20w headlights. Possibly one 10deg, and one 30deg. Not sure yet. Maybe just two 30deg floods. The lights will be powered off a small 100w 48v-12v dc converter, which will be powered off the main battery.

IT'S ALIVE!!!!

Looks like Johnny-5 with wheels!!!





As you can see, I'm using some heavy duty bolts for the rack. It needs to securelt hold 40lbs of weight. I figure 30lbs for the controller/battery, and another 10-20lbs for my lunch, and other goods when shopping.




I just placed my order for a Crystalyte 5303 motor, and a 100a Kelly Regenerative braking controller. I also have most of the parts I need for the bike, except a good set of commuter tires.

Patriot

More progress. I finally got the rear wheel laced, and dished. Just waiting for tires now.





Using an 8s Sunrace freewheel, I needed an additional few washers on the inside of the axle to make it fit properly.

Allen

Beautiful work.

FWIW I've had good success with both Michelin's TransWorld City tires and Schwalbe's Marathon tires.

Patriot

Actually, I just ordered Michelin City tires. Similar to Transworlds, but handle better, from all the reviews I've read.

Allen

Haven't tried those yet.
I have the Transworld on my E-Xtracycle, when I wear them out I'll look at the Cities. (or should that be Citys since it is a proper noun?)

djork

Nice! What sort of mounting braket did you use to mount the chrome lights? That looks awesome. What is the distance between the rear dropouts? I'm surprised you can fit an 8-speed cassette! Again, very nice!

Patriot

I used some plastic conduit brackets that you can get at Home Depot for about $0.80ea. I sprayed them black with plain old flat black Rustoleum. They're nice, because they fit snugly around a regular MTB bar, and have holes to bolt the chrome lights to it snugly with a piece of rubber inbetween the two.

The dropout spread is....

I have no idea. Thank God it's steel.

Allen

^^^
I love steel.
I'm running a Rohloff on a Salsa La Raza.
The rear spacing on the La Raza is 130mm, a Rohloff is 135mm. The rear triangle stretched out without a problem.

cerewa

your bike is looking great so far. I'm impressed!

Patriot

Here's som more pics of my progress today. I got my panniers in the mail, and I mounted the Otivia box for my battery and controller.








The box has some really cheap plastic brackets for holding it onto the rack. I said, "Toss those!!" Then, I made my own heavier duty brackets out of 2" aluminum flat stock with curved edges on the sides, so it won't slide and be able to handle heavier loads.

Toss these...




Then, mount the box with these...




Oh, and here's my new controller. Yippeeeee!!!!

Patriot

Now I'm working on my controller mount. I have other items to mount, so I'm building a custom wood shelf to mount everything to.



Gluing pieces together.



If you look at the right side, there is a small 48v/12v DC converter which I got for $25, and will use it to power my 20w halogen headlights.

djork

Looking very nice, patriot! I was wondering since all the weight is on the rear tire, what sort of tube do you use? I'm contemplating this issue since my e-bike build will be set up like yours, though my other option is to get a fork pannier rack and put the batteries there. Since the hub is on the rear and most likely bolted to the dropouts, changinga flat is gonna be a pain. So I was thinking using a Slime tube for flat prevention. However, I've read that Slime tubes use regular or cheap rubber tubes, and those might not be able to handle excessive weight. Then there is the heavier tubes such as the Maxxis welter weight tubes, but they aren't self-sealing. Maybe get thicker and stronger tubes and inject some Slime into them?

Also, could you tell me what sort of parts you are using for the light mounts? What area in Home Depot can I find them in? What are they listed as or a part number will help!

Patriot

Belive it or not, virtually every standard butyl rubber tube out there is identical in thickness and strength, unless it's a specific thinner wall "lite" tube, or a heavy tube. Thicker tubes really don't give you all that much more protection. The tube is not the main concern. I've been using cheap Performance brand tubes for years with no worries.

Tires are what you need to worry about. For ebikes, any good heavy duty commuting or touring tire can easily handle the extra 55lbs of weight. Think about it. Your shards of glass and debris need to get through the tire first, before they can puncture the tube. Also, for the extra weight. If you're a fairly average guy like me, who weighs say 180lbs or so, the extra weight gives you the equivalent of a 235lbs guy riding thebike. So if the bike can handle a 235lbs rider, it can easily handle the electric hub motor and battery.

If you're concerned about pinch flats, one good way to minize that concern is to use a suspension seatpost, or perhaps a springer seat.

For the light mounts, go to the electrical section at Home Depot and look at all the mounting hardware they have for running electrical conduit, etc.

Heck, you could even print the picture I have in the Electrical Forum for my 2 x 20w light project, and print it out to see.

Patriot

The controller mount is pretty well finished, and installed. The nice thing, is this will allow me to remove it easily, so I can install and work on the battery, which goes in the front of the Otivia box. I plan on getting one of Ping's batteries when I can afford it. As of now, all the money I had slated for this project has gone into the motor and controller. It may be a few months before I can save up enough money for a 48v/20ah LiFePO4 battery.





Here it's inside the Otivia box. I will be cutting a large hole in the mount, next to the controller. Then, I can reach underneath it to store extra tubes, tools, and the plugs for the charger and hall wires, etc.



Now comes lots of wiring. :mrgreen:

jsharr

As usual, your work has left me in awe. Thanks for the updates.

Patriot

The Throttles.

Here's how I've decided to setup my throttles. I decided on a full twist for the right, and a thumb throttle for the left/Regen braking.

As we all know, the plastic throttles are very cheaply made, and I really wanted some throttles that are softer, better in rain, and more durable.

The problem with the original twist throttles, is that the sleeve that goes over the handlebars is bigger, so it tends to leave the grip with a bit of wiggle, which is destined to eventually break from cranking on it while pushing hard, or standing and climbing.

So, I went with a nice set of Oury rubber grips. Here's how I modified them.

1. First, one needs to assemble the proper tools. A screwdriver to take the end cap off, a box cutter, a file for making the sleeve fit snugly over the bars, and a drill using a 1/2" bit.



2. Now, the screw for the end cap is inside the grip, so a long screwdriver will be needed. After removing the end cap, use the box cutter to slice and gently peel off the cheap grip. It's glued on, so it takes a little effort. Clean off excess glue on the sleeve with some lacquer thinner if needed.

3. Then, drill a good sized hole in the end of the throttle sleeve, so you can get your half round file in there for finishing the inside diameter of the sleeve to fit smoothly over your bars.

4. Now, BE CAREFUL!!!! File away just enough of the sleeve so it gently slides over the bars, but not too much so that it wiggles. The objective here is to get it to rotate easily, but have no radial movement/wiggling, which could add to weaking of the sleeve/potentiometer joint.



5. Install the grip over your throttle. You may need some soap or other means to slide it on. Use very little dish soap. Less than a drop rubbed over the sleeve is all that's needed. Once that Oury grip goes on and dries, it ain't comin' off. So, twist it where you want it right away. I set mine up with the Oury lettering facing forward.

6. Now, your aftermarket grip will most likely be longer than the original by a good 1/2". Mine were. So, any handlebar that sticks out of the end of your throttle will rub/grab the end of the grip when installed. However, this can be easily alleviated into a smooth action by simply applying some thick axle grease to the very end of the handlebar where it rubs the grip. I used some Liquid Wrench Dry Teflon lube. It works perfectly.

7. The installed grip will be one heck of a thick monster for a grip, which I prefer. I hate skinny grips. I like to really be able to grab onto it. The left side will obviously be skinnier. So, what I did, was wrap several layers of electrical tape to the handlebars on the left side, to make the grip close to the right. They match up much better now.



I also got my new tires in the mail. The 700x32c Michelin City tires look like they will do more than adequate for the job I need.

Optimaman

Looking forward to you connecting your controller! I'm thinking of upgrading to Kelly controller and trying to figure out how to wire the hall sensors and throttle and regen stuff. I can figure out the battery and 3 wires for the motor - that's it for now...

Miketx1

That is very impressive

wasp

nice clean ride...
keep the wiring neat

Zeuser

WOW! Nice work. Quite an impressive build.