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I rarely pedal. I'm working up to it. I have a lot of stop lights on my commute. I may need to look at my speedo settings too, I did change to a bigger tire. But it shouldn't matter what type of battery since the watt meter is just measuring what power goes into the controller. I did pedal more this morning and only used 1.44ah over 4 miles, so that would be a little better.
I have 11 lights, 2 stop signs. |
That explains it. Once you start pedaling more, you'll see a big jump in the number of miles you can travel per AH. Per the logs I keep with my CellLog 8, I'm getting anywhere from 4.58-5.89 miles per AH on my TS LIFEPO4 pack, but I'm pedaling all the time (and often grateful for the granny gears on my bike when trying to climb the steeper hills here).
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You aren't using a direct drive hub, right? So you have the ability to use the gears to your advantage. I run flat out at 19-21 mph and I don't have much pedal left at that speed. I think I need a bigger front sprocket.
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Originally Posted by yopappamon
(Post 10727521)
You aren't using a direct drive hub, right? So you have the ability to use the gears to your advantage. I run flat out at 19-21 mph and I don't have much pedal left at that speed. I think I need a bigger front sprocket.
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I only get 1.6 to 1 mile per 1AH because I got a motor that takes a lot of energy and I weigh about 250lbs.
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Originally Posted by nwmtnbkr
(Post 10727765)
You're right, I've got the Currie conversion kit installed on my 21-speed mountain bike.
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Shouldn't we be talking about miles per wH, not AH anyways? 1 ah on a 48v pack is totally different than 1 ah on a 24v pack.
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Originally Posted by dumbass
(Post 10729669)
But keep in mind that a stock Currie or Currie kit does not use the gearing system at all. So your improved mileage per AH is 100% due to your own personal efforts peddling and the speed you travel. Lets face it your peddling with your motor assisting, whereas. yopappamon is motoring with a only very little peddle assist. This is totally different and can not be compared for AH usage. So no matter what motor setup he/she has it will not change unless they put in the work or just except the high AHs usage per mile. It's a fact of life (ebiking). Nether way is a wrong way I am only stating that they are not the same way to use an ebike.
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Originally Posted by Geekybiker
(Post 10730365)
Shouldn't we be talking about miles per wH, not AH anyways? 1 ah on a 48v pack is totally different than 1 ah on a 24v pack.
You're right, the general method used to determine efficiency is to calculate WH/M, which will vary depending on terrain and riding patterns as well as the e-bike's motor and controller. Clearly the Watt Hours available varies by the size of the battery (I believe you calculate WH by multiplying V x AH). To calculate WH/M, you need to ride to a safe DOD to determine the number of miles you can get in any particular terrain (clearly, weather, especially wind, can have an affect, too). My battery pack is still in break-mode so I've not taken it down to safe DOD levels yet to calculate my WH/M. I've got to order a Turnigy watt meter/power analyzer for my handlebars. However, given the levels of power consumption I've seen in my rides to date, I would guesstimate that Ill be able to ride 27 miles and still be at a safe DOD (yes, that's with pedaling--I always pedal). Using that figure to plug in to the calculation, I get 17.7 as WH/M (V x AH ÷ M). |
So by that formula we are not that different.
The longer, not too many stops, some pedalling: 8.78AH / 22.5M = 0.390 AH/M x 40V = 15.6 WH/M (40volts being that actual voltage of the 36v cells) The work run with lots of stops and minimal pedaling: 1.88AH / 4M = 0.47 AH/M X 40V = 18.8 WH/M |
I just did a 10 AH ride. My weak cell was 3.28v when I got back so I guess it's not that weak.
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On my bike, I can either use 1AH per 1 mile or I can do 1 AH per 2 miles. It just depends on hard I floor the throttle. Not sure if your bikes are the same way or not and that's without pedaling at all. Also, headwinds play a lot bigger role than you realize. I can burn an extra 1AH per mile just on a headwind.
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They just delivered my Cell log 8's and my second battery medic. The cell logs are a log smaller than I expected. Especially next to the medics. I might have time to hook them up tonight.
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Horrible day to ride a bike today in my city. Wind was like 20 or 30 mph and the damn lawn sprinklers were blowing water in my face.
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It's windy today here too. and it rained night before last. I had to get up at 4am to cover the bike (i have no garage). Then later that day I looked at the bike, and my battery box was falling apart. Apparently the cd case I was using is only pressed together and the bumps have been working it apart. I pressed it back together and now have a leather belt wrapped around it keeping it together. So much for my bright idea.
The longer term plan is to make it so I don't have to open the box much. Charging connectors on the side. Either a window to see the watt meter, or mount it on top. Same for the cell logs. |
Originally Posted by yopappamon
(Post 10742442)
It's windy today here too. and it rained night before last. I had to get up at 4am to cover the bike (i have no garage). Then later that day I looked at the bike, and my battery box was falling apart. Apparently the cd case I was using is only pressed together and the bumps have been working it apart. I pressed it back together and now have a leather belt wrapped around it keeping it together. So much for my bright idea.
The longer term plan is to make it so I don't have to open the box much. Charging connectors on the side. Either a window to see the watt meter, or mount it on top. Same for the cell logs. |
or just get a bag on the back. My topeak bag has been holding up pretty well so far. Going on 2 years with it.
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2 Attachment(s)
Got the cell logs wired. I think I might wire the alarm outputs to a buzzer outside the box and leave the monitors inside.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148627 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148626 |
Originally Posted by yopappamon
(Post 10744367)
Got the cell logs wired. I think I might wire the alarm outputs to a buzzer outside the box and leave the monitors inside.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148627 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148626 http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...log-8s-monitor |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by nwmtnbkr
(Post 10746870)
If you haven't done it already, just remember to modify the CellLog to avoid having it draw all its power from cells 7 and 8. I linked to a photo showing where to solder a small copper wire to fix this issue in the thread on CellLogs. This fix is courtesy of SpeedEBiker, who was an early adopter of the CellLog 8S.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...log-8s-monitor I tried to start using them on the way into work. I didn't create the log file to start with so it didn't log for the 4 miles in. I took off the afternoon and went for a 20 mile trek. These are the logs from it. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148721 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148720 So I did 24 miles on the charge 10.7ah. The winds were very high today. |
Originally Posted by yopappamon
(Post 10747568)
I'm only using 6 cells per celllog. So I have nothing connected to 7 or 8. I was wondering where it got its power since I was wanting to add a switch to turn them off without unplugging them.
I tried to start using them on the way into work. I didn't create the log file to start with so it didn't log for the 4 miles in. I took off the afternoon and went for a 20 mile trek. These are the logs from it. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148721 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=148720 So I did 24 miles on the charge 10.7ah. The winds were very high today. |
After the ride today, I noticed the battery box was falling apart. The corners were broken, no salvaging it. So I picked up this Avenir case from Dicks sporting goods. The batteries fit exactly.
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wow, that looks pretty good. How did you keep your voltages so flat? Did you let off the throttle if it got around 2.8v or did it never get to that point? I'm using probably twice as much current on my controller as you so maybe that's the difference. Actually, I do remember that my batteries only sag to about 3.05v under 20 amps so maybe if you only use 1C, it looks like that.
Were you flooring the throttle the whole time? What would happen if you floored the throttle for say 15 minutes straight? or have you tried that? |
My controller never puts out more than 15 amps that I've seen. The area on the chart after 50 minutes is up hill full throttle. Not a big hill, but a long grade. I don't floor it off a stop, I tend to gradually give it throttle and pedal.
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7 Attachment(s)
My new battery arrangement.
I bolted a piece of wood through the bag to the bike rack. Wrapped ties around it to anchor the batteries. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=149164 Battery bundle http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=149165 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=149166 Battery bundle strapped down to the board. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=149167 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=149168 Watt meter in the side pocket, controller in the other side pocket. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=149170 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=149171 It's much more stealthly now. But I've found that the board in the bag seems to amplify the motor chatter quite a bit. I should have put some rubber in between them. |
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