Thought I'd post some info on my build - Actionbent T1 goes LIPO w/ 9 continent Motor
 

Some of you are aware I've started an electric trike build. I thought I'd finally do a bit of an update. :)

Started out as this:

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/1...0313154921.jpg

And here is the current state of it:

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/4...8179391364.jpg
http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/9...4979311364.jpg
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9...6179341364.jpg
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3...8979411364.jpg

Tis a work in progress, to say the least. :)

I shot this video, with the rear wheel suspended in the air just to test the setup. Can't wait to get rolling on it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vtPr...layer_embedded

Hey, those pictures look familiar... :)

What's the heatsink for in the top of the right battery compartment? Looks good!

Edit: I figured it out. (DC-DC converter)

Thanks! And also, Correct! 48v-->12v 120W 10Amp converter.

http://www.current-logic.com/shop/in...roducts_id=151

I got one like that - they use them in the scooter type ebikes. I ended up getting something from Mouser which cost a bit more but was much, much lighter...

How much lighter? The one I bought doesn't weigh THAT much, did it work well for it's intended purpose? I wanted a nicer one, but well, I'm already over budget.

In other news though, my replacement 1420I charger comes in today!

Last night, I reconfigured the way the batteries are paralleled so that they will better fit under shrink wrap, as well as using 10awg instead of 12. Just waiting for the shrink wrap to come in from GGoodrum's TPPacks site now.

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/1...8584871364.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7...3092981364.jpg

- about 200g lighter - 220g vs 20g.

Ok, so that is a fair amount. Do you have a link for the one from Mouser?

Made some progress this weekend. Shortened the controller-->motor wires by about 1.5 feet, moved the torque arm to the non-drive side, and then reinstalled some Anderson powerpoles on the motor phase wires, this time color coordinated vs 3 black ones.

Next step is getting the cover plates built for the boxes, and having the wooden plate my controller sits on changed out to a metal one, so it will slide under my seat better.

Any thoughts on my 100 AMP circuit breaker? Everything being powered by batteries is after the breaker, but am wondering if I should install MAXI fuses on each of the 6S4P LIPO sub sections.

The DC-DC converter I purchased is no longer available, but this one is similar: http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductD...64-PKB4913PINB These converters are tiny!

What is the circuit breaker for? Are you trying to protect the batteries from an accidental short or something else? Fusing was once a hotly discussed topic in the electric R/C world. Eventually, it was realized fusing was not really necessary as overcurrent protection became a standard feature of speed controls. There seems to be a parallel in the ebike world as fusing is not included in most (all?) e-assist kits. Outside of this circuit, fusing makes more sense. I've got a 6A fuse in my lighting circuit if memory serves...

Yeah, the circuit breaker is there in lieu of a master fuse. I'm just used to including a fuse or breaker on all my electric projects, as a "just in case" thing.

The guru's @ ebikes.ca told me to place the largest fuse I could find between the controller and battery - since they said if the controller goes, it'll start to dump hundreds if not thousands of amps through. Hence a 100amp circuit breaker. Everything pulling power will be after the breaker.

Is this the recommendation in light of the current the LiPos can deliver? I have no such fusing... 8-)

Ha, well I don't feel bad for only having a circuit breaker in place then!

To answer, no, I didn't explain to them that I was using LIPO.

Ok, another thing that is on my mind. Also posted on Endless Sphere, but haven't gotten any love on it yet.

On my torque arm setup - here it is on the left side of the trike.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/7...0521131526.jpg

Will that position be effective enough to run on? Eventually I want torque plates made for both sides, but in the time being, this is what I've got.

Hoping to complete the build soon though! Running down to the shop tonight to get the battery box cover plates put on, as well as machining a new mount for my controller and hopefully, cycle analyst.

I'm switching up my plan on how to use Gary Goodrum's LVC boards now too. I'll be splitting the boards tonight into two, and having one in each box, as opposed to having a smaller box inbetween the battery boxes, which was my plan before. Then I'll just need a bridge wire for the LVC function, and can reconfigure my JST XH extensions for charging purposes.

I replied on Endless Sphere but obviously screwed up as there is no post. :) Honestly, it isn't great, corkscrew, as with the pivot in line it is the weakest possible arrangement. As stated previously, it is best if the angle is 90 Deg and the arm is very firmly locked on the arm of the bike. It is also best if the rotation pulls the axle INTO the dropout. Can you picture the forces involved here?

Well I might be missing something here, but 90 degrees from what point exactly?

I understand that under normal use, the axle (as seen from the left in that photo) will want to spin clockwise - opposite of the motor. Meanwhile in regen, it will want to spin counter clockwise, or forward.

I flipped the short portion of the arm as instructed on endless sphere, with that done, should the long portion of the arm be going up to the seat stays?

The angle at the intermediate pivot point should be 90 Deg. or so to stop the section connected to the shaft from rotating. Does this make sense?

I think so - do you mean more like this?

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203262

If so - I tested it out in that position - using the same p-clamp through the cut out area of the dropout gets the arm in a nearly vertical position. At the time though I didn't think it was correct, but I couldn't figure out 90 degrees from what lol.

Yes, if you leave the rest the same...

Ok, I'll reconfigure the longer arm tonight into it's vertical position, and will repost a pic then. Thanks for the assistance!

Ok, I'm getting closer I'm sure of it.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/1...21714edit0.jpg

Much better!!

Yes. The only downside is the reaction torque would tend to pull the axle down out of the dropout. But frankly, I doubt this would ever be an issue...

Assuming I check my axle nuts periodically of course.... :)

Thanks for the assistance guys. I'm going to get some torque plate templates made soon, hopefully the guys down at the shop can assist with that.

Got some work done on it last night, in addition to moving the torque arm a bit.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/948...0966331364.jpg

Have working covers for the battery boxes now, and a new controller plate made of stainless steel. The plate has a rod coming up off of it to mount the Cycle Analyst nice and centered on the trike.

Tonight I'm hoping to separate the LVC boards, and shrink wrap my battery packs.

You are much more ambitious than I was when I did mine! Here are some pics of the converted QNT FWIW. Also, here is my nephew riding it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnfmrhxTxJU
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203369http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203370http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203371http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203372http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203373http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203374http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203375http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=203376

I dunno if I'd say that rscamp. :) I just really have nothing better to do being a single guy. I go to work, head home, work on my trike. Weee?