Building a new electric assist bike
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I am building a electric bike from a kit I bought on eBay for $219 free shipping. With a 36V 250 watt motor. I got a lead acid nine amp hour battery for $57 with shipping $80. Fairly easy to build. The problem I’m having is it has aluminum rim and the brake pads severely scored the rims. Is there a special Bike brake pad for aluminum rims and does anyone know what I can do to fix the damage rims? They are scored pretty deep and sharp I only rode it one day, but didn’t notice how badly the rim was being scored.
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Looking good, keep up the good work there, how does your bike perform, once thing you have to consider when building your own e bike is the weight and chunky batteries and wiring. Doesnt usually look as good as a factory made e bike
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Last edited by ohno; 10-09-13 at 10:56 AM.
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Two years later, an update
Just thought I'd check in to say with another year in the books, this bike continues to be 100% reliable every time we take it out.
My wife loves it, and I love it too, because it makes our rides together very enjoyable.
The only tweak I've made is to install a stabilizing spring on the fork to keep it from flopping over when parked.

My wife loves it, and I love it too, because it makes our rides together very enjoyable.
The only tweak I've made is to install a stabilizing spring on the fork to keep it from flopping over when parked.


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I have built a standard front wheel with matching rim that I can swap in for transporting long distances on the bike rack, and to try and wean my wife off the electric motor a bit at a time.
In a matter of a few minutes, I can swap in the electric wheel, strap on the battery and it's an e bike again.

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Great Videos Dan
I'm building up a yuba Mundo with a BMC V3 48V rear hub that is almost new. I love the kill switch idea since I really don't want to run another set of brake levers.... thanks for the idea! Any experience with ordering batteries with built in controllers from over seas? Thoughts on Lithium ion vs lifepo4? Appreciate your time Donny
I'm building up a yuba Mundo with a BMC V3 48V rear hub that is almost new. I love the kill switch idea since I really don't want to run another set of brake levers.... thanks for the idea! Any experience with ordering batteries with built in controllers from over seas? Thoughts on Lithium ion vs lifepo4? Appreciate your time Donny
As I explained in one of the earlier videos, I am discarding the brake lever with the kill switch built in, and wiring a separate kill switch on the handlebars. The reason being, the lever is junk, but it does seem a good idea to to be able to cut the power in case it stuck on.
I was simply going to wire an on off switch in place of the lever, but was surprised to learn that pulling the lever actually closes the circuit rather than opening it. This means that the safety overide actually relies on a power supply rather than cutting power. Hardly seems fail safe to me.
So, I went with the original plan, and connected the cable to bypass the key switch instead as I had done on the earlier conversion.
Is it common to have safety overides that function by supplying power, and if so, why?
I was simply going to wire an on off switch in place of the lever, but was surprised to learn that pulling the lever actually closes the circuit rather than opening it. This means that the safety overide actually relies on a power supply rather than cutting power. Hardly seems fail safe to me.
So, I went with the original plan, and connected the cable to bypass the key switch instead as I had done on the earlier conversion.
Is it common to have safety overides that function by supplying power, and if so, why?
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Great Videos Dan
I'm building up a yuba Mundo with a BMC V3 48V rear hub that is almost new. I love the kill switch idea since I really don't want to run another set of brake levers.... thanks for the idea! Any experience with ordering batteries with built in controllers from over seas? Thoughts on Lithium ion vs lifepo4? Appreciate your time Donny
I'm building up a yuba Mundo with a BMC V3 48V rear hub that is almost new. I love the kill switch idea since I really don't want to run another set of brake levers.... thanks for the idea! Any experience with ordering batteries with built in controllers from over seas? Thoughts on Lithium ion vs lifepo4? Appreciate your time Donny
I'm still shopping for batteries. Looks like lifepo4 is the way to go.
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Time for an update.
I've replaced the 7 ah SLA battery pack with a 10 ah Lifepo4 pack. I did not change anything else. The first trip out, I did 16km all on the battery, only pedaling to get enough speed for the motor to engage.
Lots of power, and no sign of diminishing at the end of the ride.

The battery pack came complete with a slide and lock mount.
I've replaced the 7 ah SLA battery pack with a 10 ah Lifepo4 pack. I did not change anything else. The first trip out, I did 16km all on the battery, only pedaling to get enough speed for the motor to engage.
Lots of power, and no sign of diminishing at the end of the ride.

The battery pack came complete with a slide and lock mount.

Last edited by Dan Burkhart; 08-04-15 at 06:41 PM.
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Well, since nobody has un stickied this thread, I guess I'll do another update. The mechanical and electric components of this bike continue to function flawlessly, but the frame had an issue. The chain stays were being crushed by the double leg kick stand clamp, so before it got too bad, I started the search for a suitable donor frame.
Big box store steel frame with rigid fork, horizontal dropouts, V brake posts and a kickstand mounting plate behind the bottom bracket were my criteria. I found one in the right size, and in pretty good condition.

The transfer of components was pretty straight forward. The front axle mounting tabs had to be re created to fit a slightly different dropout design.


The offending decals had to go.

And here it is, reborn. Works great. The frame is noticeably stiffer than the old one, and the V brakes are way superior, as expected.
Still some tidying up to do with the wiring, and I need to install riv-nuts in the downtube for a bottle cage, but otherwise ready for action.
Big box store steel frame with rigid fork, horizontal dropouts, V brake posts and a kickstand mounting plate behind the bottom bracket were my criteria. I found one in the right size, and in pretty good condition.

The transfer of components was pretty straight forward. The front axle mounting tabs had to be re created to fit a slightly different dropout design.


The offending decals had to go.

And here it is, reborn. Works great. The frame is noticeably stiffer than the old one, and the V brakes are way superior, as expected.
Still some tidying up to do with the wiring, and I need to install riv-nuts in the downtube for a bottle cage, but otherwise ready for action.

Last edited by Dan Burkhart; 04-08-16 at 07:20 PM.
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Well, since nobody has un stickied this thread, I guess I'll do another update. The mechanical and electric components of this bike continue to function flawlessly, but the frame had an issue. The chain stays were being crushed by the double leg kick stand clamp, so before it got too bad, I started the search for a suitable donor frame.
Big box store steel frame with rigid fork, horizontal dropouts, V brake posts and a kickstand mounting plate behind the bottom bracket were my criteria. I found one in the right size, and in pretty good condition.

The transfer of components was pretty straight forward. The front axle mounting tabs had to be re created to fit a slightly different dropout design.


The offending decals had to go.

And here it is, reborn. Works great. The frame is noticeably stiffer than the old one, and the V brakes are way superior, as expected.
Still some tidying up to do with the wiring, and I need to install riv-nuts in the downtube for a bottle cage, but otherwise ready for action.

Big box store steel frame with rigid fork, horizontal dropouts, V brake posts and a kickstand mounting plate behind the bottom bracket were my criteria. I found one in the right size, and in pretty good condition.

The transfer of components was pretty straight forward. The front axle mounting tabs had to be re created to fit a slightly different dropout design.


The offending decals had to go.

And here it is, reborn. Works great. The frame is noticeably stiffer than the old one, and the V brakes are way superior, as expected.
Still some tidying up to do with the wiring, and I need to install riv-nuts in the downtube for a bottle cage, but otherwise ready for action.

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Dan,
I saw a post for a BOB trailer with a 16" electrically driven wheel. Now I'm getting seriously interested. It looks to me like you could attach the BOB to any bike (or trike) that has a QR rear wheel but, of course, I don't have any experience with either BOB trailers or e-assist. Does this sound like a good idea to you? I'm thinking that Mrs. Grouch might have such a booster in her future.
I saw a post for a BOB trailer with a 16" electrically driven wheel. Now I'm getting seriously interested. It looks to me like you could attach the BOB to any bike (or trike) that has a QR rear wheel but, of course, I don't have any experience with either BOB trailers or e-assist. Does this sound like a good idea to you? I'm thinking that Mrs. Grouch might have such a booster in her future.
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#43
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Dan,
I saw a post for a BOB trailer with a 16" electrically driven wheel. Now I'm getting seriously interested. It looks to me like you could attach the BOB to any bike (or trike) that has a QR rear wheel but, of course, I don't have any experience with either BOB trailers or e-assist. Does this sound like a good idea to you? I'm thinking that Mrs. Grouch might have such a booster in her future.
I saw a post for a BOB trailer with a 16" electrically driven wheel. Now I'm getting seriously interested. It looks to me like you could attach the BOB to any bike (or trike) that has a QR rear wheel but, of course, I don't have any experience with either BOB trailers or e-assist. Does this sound like a good idea to you? I'm thinking that Mrs. Grouch might have such a booster in her future.
I also have 3/8 x 26 BoB Nuts on my Alfine hub, and 13/32 ones on my Sturmey Archer 8 speed. I believe they are also available in m10 x 1 threaded version.
My 3 and 5 speed Sturmey Archers are too narrow for the hitch to work properly without bending the hitch yoke, so I don't pull it with those bikes.
One thing I would strongly advise is to have a kill switch immediately at hand on the handle bar in case of controller malfunction.
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Electric Bike Mnaufacturing
I am working out an electric bike for some special client in the New Zealand best company name is Ripple Electrical best and professional company I am working here for 3 years back to till.
#50
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It is very nice to see how a bicycle is mounted, I admire the bicycles and the way they are mounted, I always bring a relaxation when I deal with another doing this, I am glad that I can see such works thanks for posting and as much as possible of such works on bicycles.