Anyone heard of or purchased Papamotor electric conversion kits?
#101
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Whoops...fixed it.
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#103
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Try this link: https://youtu.be/3Ca9sRlqOok
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#105
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Try this link: https://youtu.be/3Ca9sRlqOok
SiXiam .. my commute is is also 6 miles each way which also includes some hill, so we both in the same boat..
make sure whatver bike you buy has a strong frame, the konai lanai, has all a alluminium frame made from 7005 type aluminium, this is the stronger type so its good, personally I think you should get something with a 4130 chromolly steel frame, which is very strong
https://www.brightspoke.com/c/underst...materials.html
heres a good link on bike materials..
if you do get the kona, then your in good hands as its the exact same bike as EBikeFL,
so you can copy directly what EBikeFL did.. so should be easy process for you.
try not to get the weaker aluminium 6061 frames.. 7005 should be minimum for all round ease of mind..
other things to consider on your bike frame is can it easily take fenders and racks.. the problem with my bike is that it cant take these things easy, and I have to be a bit creative as to how I install these things.. but it can be done.. just more harder..
make sure your chainset/ crankset ( the part you pedal) is a minimum two piece set ( contains 2 parts).. so then you can install the PAS system.. ( pedal assist system).
and the safe bet I think is to go for the rear motor, as if the front has failure you end up worst case scenario fly over the handle bars resulting in a nasty accident..
and keep involved in this thread, it will help others and me too.. welcome to the world of cool bikes
make sure whatver bike you buy has a strong frame, the konai lanai, has all a alluminium frame made from 7005 type aluminium, this is the stronger type so its good, personally I think you should get something with a 4130 chromolly steel frame, which is very strong
https://www.brightspoke.com/c/underst...materials.html
heres a good link on bike materials..
if you do get the kona, then your in good hands as its the exact same bike as EBikeFL,
so you can copy directly what EBikeFL did.. so should be easy process for you.
try not to get the weaker aluminium 6061 frames.. 7005 should be minimum for all round ease of mind..
other things to consider on your bike frame is can it easily take fenders and racks.. the problem with my bike is that it cant take these things easy, and I have to be a bit creative as to how I install these things.. but it can be done.. just more harder..
make sure your chainset/ crankset ( the part you pedal) is a minimum two piece set ( contains 2 parts).. so then you can install the PAS system.. ( pedal assist system).
and the safe bet I think is to go for the rear motor, as if the front has failure you end up worst case scenario fly over the handle bars resulting in a nasty accident..
and keep involved in this thread, it will help others and me too.. welcome to the world of cool bikes
I'm still looking for what bike I want.
I don't really want the Kona Lana'i due to problems using the kit, especially with the twist throttle.
Last edited by SiXiam; 07-22-12 at 01:51 PM.
#106
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hi there,
Im not sure on this so will need EbikeFL to confirm this, but if you use the twist throttle, then I think you have to use papa motors brakes levers, and they are only cable brake systems, so you cant use hydraulic brakes.. I think..
if you use thumb throttle then you dont have to use their brake levers therefore you can use hydraulics..
although having said that, my bike has hydraulics and to be honest with you I feel that V brakes had more stopping power, maybe Im wrong so dont quote me, the advantage of disk brakes is that they work in all weather.....
if your looking for a bike then I suggest looking at following website
https://www.evanscycles.com/categorie...mountain-bikes
you dont have to buy it from there, but its a good place to find out specs of lots of different bikes, all your information is in one place sort of thing..
one important thing is that make sure your rear forks dropouts have the right fittings and shape, as there are so many different types, and with some its more difficult to add things like torque clamp and so on...
what is your maxumim budget for the bike? have you seen the kona minute..? its a very strong bike..
all the best
Im not sure on this so will need EbikeFL to confirm this, but if you use the twist throttle, then I think you have to use papa motors brakes levers, and they are only cable brake systems, so you cant use hydraulic brakes.. I think..
if you use thumb throttle then you dont have to use their brake levers therefore you can use hydraulics..
although having said that, my bike has hydraulics and to be honest with you I feel that V brakes had more stopping power, maybe Im wrong so dont quote me, the advantage of disk brakes is that they work in all weather.....
if your looking for a bike then I suggest looking at following website
https://www.evanscycles.com/categorie...mountain-bikes
you dont have to buy it from there, but its a good place to find out specs of lots of different bikes, all your information is in one place sort of thing..
one important thing is that make sure your rear forks dropouts have the right fittings and shape, as there are so many different types, and with some its more difficult to add things like torque clamp and so on...
what is your maxumim budget for the bike? have you seen the kona minute..? its a very strong bike..
all the best
#107
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I couldn't use the twist throttle due to the combo of the stock parts on the Kona Lanai. The stock Shimano v-brake and shifter prevented me from using the twist throttle which uses the Papamotor e-brake to send a signal to the controller to stop. The e-brake handle isn't something to brag about. It looks very cheap. I've since ordered parts to install hydraulic brakes which meant I had to break the stock Shimano combo apart to its individual components. I purchased Shimano shifters only without the brake included since the hydraulic brakes are a one finger operation and I don't have a 10-speed. The replacement Shimano shifters were very inexpensive which made me happy since I don't even use the shift derailleurs anymore.
If it wasn't for the need to get the bike moving from a standstill I wouldn't even need the thumb throttle. Of course, I could shift the bike into lower gears and then back into the highest gears but 99% of the time I'm riding the bike it's at full throttle so the majority of the time I'm using the highest gear. In addition, once the bike gets moving it only takes a few seconds for the motor to out race me even in the highest gear.
The thought of having a one speed has crossed my mind. I wouldn't have to worry about derailleurs and it would certainly save space on the handlebar for additional toys. I can't remember seeing only one cog in the rear as an option on the Papamotor's website though so it may be a moot point.
Anyway, the upgrades I've been making (i.e. braking, rim width and tire size) should give you some ideas of what your bike should have on it. I've got 180 mm Ice Tech front and rear rotors on the way to go along with the hydraulic brakes. I hope I'll be able to get them to work especially in the rear. Maybe soon I'll be able to go to 203 mm rotors.
I'll be a little late on the pictures I promised to post. I've been calculating the spoke lengths for the new Sun Ringle MTX-39 rims and reworking the attachment of the controller to the cargo cache. The controller has been getting loose on my commutes and bouncing around near the Ping battery in the cargo cache has caused some abrasion on the Ping battery's blue heat shrinking in one corner. I finally think I've fixed the problem but will have to wait to know for certain after tomorrow's commute. I've also come up with a creative way to reinforce the corners of the Ping battery with materials I already have. I'll work on that next week.
These upgrades are too much fun...I'll miss them once the bike has all the improvements made to it.
Stay tuned...more to come.
If it wasn't for the need to get the bike moving from a standstill I wouldn't even need the thumb throttle. Of course, I could shift the bike into lower gears and then back into the highest gears but 99% of the time I'm riding the bike it's at full throttle so the majority of the time I'm using the highest gear. In addition, once the bike gets moving it only takes a few seconds for the motor to out race me even in the highest gear.
The thought of having a one speed has crossed my mind. I wouldn't have to worry about derailleurs and it would certainly save space on the handlebar for additional toys. I can't remember seeing only one cog in the rear as an option on the Papamotor's website though so it may be a moot point.
Anyway, the upgrades I've been making (i.e. braking, rim width and tire size) should give you some ideas of what your bike should have on it. I've got 180 mm Ice Tech front and rear rotors on the way to go along with the hydraulic brakes. I hope I'll be able to get them to work especially in the rear. Maybe soon I'll be able to go to 203 mm rotors.
I'll be a little late on the pictures I promised to post. I've been calculating the spoke lengths for the new Sun Ringle MTX-39 rims and reworking the attachment of the controller to the cargo cache. The controller has been getting loose on my commutes and bouncing around near the Ping battery in the cargo cache has caused some abrasion on the Ping battery's blue heat shrinking in one corner. I finally think I've fixed the problem but will have to wait to know for certain after tomorrow's commute. I've also come up with a creative way to reinforce the corners of the Ping battery with materials I already have. I'll work on that next week.
These upgrades are too much fun...I'll miss them once the bike has all the improvements made to it.
Stay tuned...more to come.
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#108
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does having bigger rotors brake discs improve braking ? I think it just might?
can we have lots of pictures please?
out of 10, 10 being very easy?
how would you rate the installation process of the papa motor kit?
also if the the throttle control only has a light for when the battery is half full? how do you know when its near empty (I mean I was told that you should always charge from minimum 20 % of the battery charge), is it ok o charge the battery when it is half full?
can we have lots of pictures please?
out of 10, 10 being very easy?
how would you rate the installation process of the papa motor kit?
also if the the throttle control only has a light for when the battery is half full? how do you know when its near empty (I mean I was told that you should always charge from minimum 20 % of the battery charge), is it ok o charge the battery when it is half full?
#109
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Absolutely, I'll make sure to load lots of pictures.
I wanted more security as far as the battery and controller were concerned so I went with making modifications to the cargo cache. Using the dremel on the PAS was probably the most difficult part of the installation.
I don't pay any attention to those lights on the throttle. I use the Cycle Analyst to tell me exactly how much I've used and how much I have left. It has also been extremely helpful in determining if the additions such as the front fairing have been any benefit. I've also used it to give me an early warning that my rear tire was flat.
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#110
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hi there,
Im not sure on this so will need EbikeFL to confirm this, but if you use the twist throttle, then I think you have to use papa motors brakes levers, and they are only cable brake systems, so you cant use hydraulic brakes.. I think..
if you use thumb throttle then you dont have to use their brake levers therefore you can use hydraulics..
although having said that, my bike has hydraulics and to be honest with you I feel that V brakes had more stopping power, maybe Im wrong so dont quote me, the advantage of disk brakes is that they work in all weather.....
if your looking for a bike then I suggest looking at following website
https://www.evanscycles.com/categorie...mountain-bikes
you dont have to buy it from there, but its a good place to find out specs of lots of different bikes, all your information is in one place sort of thing..
one important thing is that make sure your rear forks dropouts have the right fittings and shape, as there are so many different types, and with some its more difficult to add things like torque clamp and so on...
what is your maxumim budget for the bike? have you seen the kona minute..? its a very strong bike..
all the best
Im not sure on this so will need EbikeFL to confirm this, but if you use the twist throttle, then I think you have to use papa motors brakes levers, and they are only cable brake systems, so you cant use hydraulic brakes.. I think..
if you use thumb throttle then you dont have to use their brake levers therefore you can use hydraulics..
although having said that, my bike has hydraulics and to be honest with you I feel that V brakes had more stopping power, maybe Im wrong so dont quote me, the advantage of disk brakes is that they work in all weather.....
if your looking for a bike then I suggest looking at following website
https://www.evanscycles.com/categorie...mountain-bikes
you dont have to buy it from there, but its a good place to find out specs of lots of different bikes, all your information is in one place sort of thing..
one important thing is that make sure your rear forks dropouts have the right fittings and shape, as there are so many different types, and with some its more difficult to add things like torque clamp and so on...
what is your maxumim budget for the bike? have you seen the kona minute..? its a very strong bike..
all the best
$717 Ping Battery (with upgraded charging)
$30 Bike rack (low estimate)
$30 Fenders (low estimate)
= $1184 (not counting the bike)
I'd like to keep the whole thing under $2000, so that means around $900 max for the bike.
I'm not interested in using the PAS. I want to peddle as much as possible. Maybe that will change later once I get used to the bike and the capabilities.
Twist throttle isn't a deal breaker. If I have to use the thumb one, that's ok.
Hydraulic disc brakes seem a priority according to EBikeFL.
Last edited by SiXiam; 07-22-12 at 07:08 PM.
#111
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$407 Papa motor Jade
$717 Ping Battery (with upgraded charging)
$30 Bike rack (low estimate)
$30 Fenders (low estimate)
= $1184 (not counting the bike)
I'd like to keep the whole thing under $2000, so that means around $900 max for the bike.
I'm not interested in using the PAS. I want to peddle as much as possible. Maybe that will change later once I get used to the bike and the capabilities.
Twist throttle isn't a deal breaker. If I have to use the thumb one, that's ok.
Hydraulic disc brakes seem a priority according to EBikeFL.
$717 Ping Battery (with upgraded charging)
$30 Bike rack (low estimate)
$30 Fenders (low estimate)
= $1184 (not counting the bike)
I'd like to keep the whole thing under $2000, so that means around $900 max for the bike.
I'm not interested in using the PAS. I want to peddle as much as possible. Maybe that will change later once I get used to the bike and the capabilities.
Twist throttle isn't a deal breaker. If I have to use the thumb one, that's ok.
Hydraulic disc brakes seem a priority according to EBikeFL.
I would still recommend installing the PAS but just don't connect it to the controller if you don't want to use it. It will be a lot easier to get everything installed in one shot instead of having to later on go back and remove parts again. Don't let the installation of the PAS scare you.
You'll want to get the Cycle Analyst as soon as you can ($150 not incl. shipping).
If you don't intend on hitting the max speed ever using the 48v 1000w motor then the mechanical disk brakes would be sufficient. I have the 160 mm mechanical disk brakes on mine and after about five minutes of riding at max speed and stopping once or twice they aren't very effective until they've had time to cool down. I'm also going through the pads very quickly. I haven't replaced them yet but I'll have to adjust the brakes very soon.
If you don't intend on being out of eyesight of your bicycle while it's locked up outside then leaving the battery and controller exposed would be fine. However, if your riding in the city or anywhere where you'll leave your bike locked and unattended then having the controller and battery in the locked cargo cache would give you peace of mind. If the thieves don't know it's there they probably won't want to steal it.
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#112
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Yes, it's O.K. to charge the battery when it's half full. The Ping battery has no memory effect.
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#113
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SiXiam, are you planning on getting the 48v 20Ah Ping battery? I'm just curious why you didn't go with the Papa Motor Platinum.
I would still recommend installing the PAS but just don't connect it to the controller if you don't want to use it. It will be a lot easier to get everything installed in one shot instead of having to later on go back and remove parts again. Don't let the installation of the PAS scare you.
You'll want to get the Cycle Analyst as soon as you can ($150 not incl. shipping).
If you don't intend on hitting the max speed ever using the 48v 1000w motor then the mechanical disk brakes would be sufficient. I have the 160 mm mechanical disk brakes on mine and after about five minutes of riding at max speed and stopping once or twice they aren't very effective until they've had time to cool down. I'm also going through the pads very quickly. I haven't replaced them yet but I'll have to adjust the brakes very soon.
If you don't intend on being out of eyesight of your bicycle while it's locked up outside then leaving the battery and controller exposed would be fine. However, if your riding in the city or anywhere where you'll leave your bike locked and unattended then having the controller and battery in the locked cargo cache would give you peace of mind. If the thieves don't know it's there they probably won't want to steal it.
I would still recommend installing the PAS but just don't connect it to the controller if you don't want to use it. It will be a lot easier to get everything installed in one shot instead of having to later on go back and remove parts again. Don't let the installation of the PAS scare you.
You'll want to get the Cycle Analyst as soon as you can ($150 not incl. shipping).
If you don't intend on hitting the max speed ever using the 48v 1000w motor then the mechanical disk brakes would be sufficient. I have the 160 mm mechanical disk brakes on mine and after about five minutes of riding at max speed and stopping once or twice they aren't very effective until they've had time to cool down. I'm also going through the pads very quickly. I haven't replaced them yet but I'll have to adjust the brakes very soon.
If you don't intend on being out of eyesight of your bicycle while it's locked up outside then leaving the battery and controller exposed would be fine. However, if your riding in the city or anywhere where you'll leave your bike locked and unattended then having the controller and battery in the locked cargo cache would give you peace of mind. If the thieves don't know it's there they probably won't want to steal it.
By ordering separately (from Ping and Papa) I don't have to deal with the hassles you experienced with calling Papa Motor to upgrade the charging.
There's also no discount from ordering everything through them.
I can store my bike at work, so I don't need to worry about locking everything up. Not yet anyway!
I really don't think I would push the motor to the limit. I'm too cautious!
It is hard to beat the price on the Lana'i, given the frame strength.
I'm still looking!
And taking the bus to work...
#114
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How far do you have to travel on the bus to get to work?
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#115
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My job is a little over 6 miles away. Unfortunately to get there I must take two buses and walk ten minutes up a hill.
A little over an hour getting there and about an hour and 15 minutes getting back.
I sold my car. I don't want to drive anymore for various reasons. Cost, environment, stress, etc.
A little over an hour getting there and about an hour and 15 minutes getting back.
I sold my car. I don't want to drive anymore for various reasons. Cost, environment, stress, etc.
Last edited by SiXiam; 07-22-12 at 09:01 PM.
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My job is a little over 6 miles away. Unfortunately to get there I must take two buses and walk ten minutes up a hill.
A little over an hour getting there and about an hour and 15 minutes getting back.
I sold my car. I don't want to drive anymore for various reasons. Cost, environment, stress, etc.
A little over an hour getting there and about an hour and 15 minutes getting back.
I sold my car. I don't want to drive anymore for various reasons. Cost, environment, stress, etc.
I get the feeling Spirit733t will want to hit the max speed as soon as the kit is installed.
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#117
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I'm jealous...your going to have a blast getting to work with the e-bike. You won't have to recharge your battery but once a day. Be prepared for star status once everyone notices your e-bike especially if you pass your bus you now take. You'll want to ride it everywhere including the grocery store.
I get the feeling Spirit733t will want to hit the max speed as soon as the kit is installed.
I get the feeling Spirit733t will want to hit the max speed as soon as the kit is installed.
Just gotta save up some more money.
Any feelings on the Kona Dew Plus?
#118
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#119
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I get the feeling Spirit733t will want to hit the max speed as soon as the kit is installed.
btw my hydraulic brakes gives me similar issues to you.. sometimes the brakes dont seem to want to stop... I think in my opinion the reality is that they not so different to cable discs.. but just possible that I have somewhat not the best brakes?
btw i just recently bought the Saracen killi chromo 2, its made from 4130 reynolds steel..
normally its costs £1200 but i got it for £699.00 and that prices includes a free rear cateye light and also an abus D lock.. so Im really chuffed with that..
when choosing a bike sixiam, look out for ideally a 7005 type aluminium frame, or chromoly 4130 steel (not high tensile steel)..
make sure that the rear fork drop outs look like they can have more things installed on them easily..
maybe rack and fenders mounts.. if not there are other ways to do this..
again personally id recommend the chromo 4130 frames, but i really like the kona minute as well, as its designed for urban with the right gear, good frame, very strong rack, fenders, cran pedal guard.. only problem is that ts does look a bit odd ..
it took me a long time to choose my bike lol... good luck dude
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Hi all
Hey DHoward
I just purchased the same kit, installing it on a Montague Paratrooper, and I'm still waiting for my battery, I guess I'm about 3 weeks out from completion. This is my second build, but I'm new to this forum.
I'm interested in one of your mods...
"I purchased a kit from Papa Motors. The only problem I had was that it was advertised to go 34 mph, but was governed at 20 MPH. I contact them and was told to remove an electronic piece attached to the controller. It now goes 32 mph...I put the governor back on and have a manual switch under the seat, where I can flip it on and off at will. I use the 20 mph mode when riding in traffic and want to pedal and use the faster mode when riding in less congested areas."
Could you share the details? I totally want to do this mod...
Thanks in advance!
R
Dang!
----------------------------------
Just tried to also send this to DHoward direct but got blocked because I'm new...could someone send him/her a heads up?
Again, thanks!
r
Hey DHoward
I just purchased the same kit, installing it on a Montague Paratrooper, and I'm still waiting for my battery, I guess I'm about 3 weeks out from completion. This is my second build, but I'm new to this forum.
I'm interested in one of your mods...
"I purchased a kit from Papa Motors. The only problem I had was that it was advertised to go 34 mph, but was governed at 20 MPH. I contact them and was told to remove an electronic piece attached to the controller. It now goes 32 mph...I put the governor back on and have a manual switch under the seat, where I can flip it on and off at will. I use the 20 mph mode when riding in traffic and want to pedal and use the faster mode when riding in less congested areas."
Could you share the details? I totally want to do this mod...
Thanks in advance!
R
Dang!
----------------------------------
Just tried to also send this to DHoward direct but got blocked because I'm new...could someone send him/her a heads up?
Again, thanks!
r
Last edited by jfi8; 07-23-12 at 01:19 PM.
#121
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I sent DHoward a PM for you jfi8. Welcome to bikeforums.net
What was your first build?
What was your first build?
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Be a part of the solution to Climate Change instead of a contributor.
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#122
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absolutely spot on sir..
btw my hydraulic brakes gives me similar issues to you.. sometimes the brakes dont seem to want to stop... I think in my opinion the reality is that they not so different to cable discs.. but just possible that I have somewhat not the best brakes?
again personally id recommend the chromo 4130 frames, but i really like the kona minute as well, as its designed for urban with the right gear, good frame, very strong rack, fenders, cran pedal guard.. only problem is that ts does look a bit odd ..
btw my hydraulic brakes gives me similar issues to you.. sometimes the brakes dont seem to want to stop... I think in my opinion the reality is that they not so different to cable discs.. but just possible that I have somewhat not the best brakes?
again personally id recommend the chromo 4130 frames, but i really like the kona minute as well, as its designed for urban with the right gear, good frame, very strong rack, fenders, cran pedal guard.. only problem is that ts does look a bit odd ..
The Kona Minute handlebars is what threw me off. The rider would be in a more upright cycling position which would be good if you planned on having really long commutes. I don't have any back problems with my Kona Lanai and a 15 mile commute one-way. I guess if you had the front fairing the handle bar setup wouldn't even matter.
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#123
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wow so many people buying the kit, welcome jfi8
be sure to share all your experience, from installation to ride, please post pictures as well..
be sure to share all your experience, from installation to ride, please post pictures as well..
#124
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Hey there. Sounds like there is some experience out there. This is what I want to put it on, to carry my dogs to the park so they can run. It currently has a coaster brake, and I've yet to measure the dropout spacing. Horizontal dropout, I believe. Can it work?
https://safe-img03.olx.com.mx/ui/5/18...AMPO-VIEJO.jpg
https://safe-img03.olx.com.mx/ui/5/18...AMPO-VIEJO.jpg
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Thanks EBikeFL...My first was an Electric-Rider Kit, a Crystalyte "Brute" on a 80$ Huffy - this Montague is a bit more serious...let me see if I can figure out how to post a pic of the Huffy here...
Hmm....not sure that worked.
Here goes...
D'oh!
R
Hmm....not sure that worked.
Here goes...
D'oh!
R