eepok

Hello all,

It looks like I'm finally closing in on the dynamo setup. Previous threads have sorted about the crown bolt/cantilever brake/mount issue. The last problem I've had is that the spade connectors on the Schmidt hub are an absolute pain to deal with. Either you keep them loose for easy wheel removal and risk having the connectors slip or you get them on there good and tight and then risk tearing the connectors trying to remove the wires.

But now, Schmidt is selling a coaxial adapter (https://nabendynamo.de/en/products/wiring/ - part# 72630 , bottom of page) for easy removal! The down side: it's kinda expensive.

So, who has experience using this? Is soldering required? Have you seen it for under $30?

John Lesar

A little dielectric grease helps. It will make tight connectors easier to remove.

fietsbob

Does it have to come from the German company? co ax pin and sleeve connectors are a common item from radio shack and other sources.

Soldering difficult for you?


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unterhausen

it's really nice and definitely worth it, especially after you forget how much you paid for it . I think you can get pre-wired cables, but that's even more expensive. The kit I got requires soldering

eepok

I'm just new to electrical work. No bias toward a German manufacturer. No experience soldering (though it seems easy enough). I just tried searching for coax pin and sleeve connectors that you mentioned but I can't seem to find something comparable to the Schmidt option. Could you post a link?

eepok

I've played this psychological game with my own mind before. I know it works... but my pre-emptive planning brain always has to be beaten to a pulp before we get to that point.

fietsbob

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/dc...rs-cables/1562

But cant you find anything in Los Angeles?





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rifraf

How often are you getting punctures or changing tires or is there a reason you might be continually removing the front wheel?
My front wheel hardly ever comes off and since I changed to ghetto tubeless, its even less.
OP, whilst the Son setup you've come across looks like great kit, I don't feel my use justifies it as utilising a pair of pliers, I've never felt the connectors were an issue.
If my front wheel was coming off regularly I'd have no hesitation in purchasing the kit if I felt it made things easier.
I wouldn't worry about what anyone else thinks.... If you like it, buy it.

Trevtassie

I've been using these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10Pa...ceBeautifyAB=0 , the wire gauge is a little low, but I figure they have only a short run between the end of the loom and the plug so the voltage drop isn't likely to be much. Soldered heat shrink over one wire then Dual Wall (glue type) heatshrink over the entire join.

yves845

If you're still on the collecting parts for your bike you may consider this :
https://nabendynamo.de/en/products/sl/
No more wires ! I've had many troubles with the SON cables, the coaxial is prone to tearing (I ended by reinforcing it with thermo gains AND covering it with pieces of metal springs) and the cable splitter is of a very special size, I found replacements on parts-connection for a fraction of the cost.
Soldering is not that hard

I still wonder why they do use a coaxial cable, it seems a total nonsense to me ; any electrician advice ?

Trevtassie

That SL system looks like using a sledge hammer to crush a nut, problem solving wise. No idea why SON use coax, it's not like the wiring needs to be shielded. The only real reason I can think of is that if the wiring was to rub through, since the SON has one terminal grounded and the outer conductor is supposed to be connected to that terminal, nothing would happen.

2_i 

One reason to use coaxial might be tied to LED front lamps that use switching circuitry for efficiency that feeds EM noise with connecting wires acting as antennas affecting wireless computers and alike.

fietsbob

B&M uses twin lead "zip cord ", its not as durable (without adding shrink tube on the whole length, as the schmidt..co ax

all guitar cables are co ax, 1 wire , insulated surrounded by a copper braid sleeve, for the return/ground-earth,.
For better RFID shielding Microphone cable uses a twisted pair for send & return , and the braided sleeve goes to ground. 3 conductors..




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steelbikeguy

this sounds like speculation. I'm not aware of any instances where twin conductor wire, such as B&M uses, has failed. Can you share any instances of such failures?

Steve in Peoria

fietsbob

I do the extra work , for my Brompton Installation;

Eyc senso T and a toplight line plus.
I use the Schmidt wiring from the e Delux, and a Schmidt made tail light.. to a SON hub..

you can be lazier take shortcuts, that's your choice





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Alphamoose

The Schmidt coax quick connectors are nice, but very hard to solder correctly. It's easy to overheat the plastic insulation around the center conductor pin and destroy the connector (the center then comes out of the connector). I ended up having a friend do it with his big soldering setup at his lab at work after I destroyed one this way.

I'm very happy not having to pull the spade lugs off the dyno hub when I pull the front wheel,, though.

2_i 

Thanks for the warning. Mine came in but I had to push its installation onto a waiting list due to interfering travel. I tried to put it on, though, to see whether spacings matched my hub and indeed the adapter seemed convenient.

fietsbob

Unplugging the spade connectors that difficult for you?

more common coax plugs are easier to solder, FWIW.





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2_i 

Yes, the spade connectors in a tight space, too tight for fingers, with narrow spatial tolerances are an OK design for times when only nerds had hub dynamos, but not when a product is to gain wide market acceptance. You do not plug your USB or AC cable spade by spade. I made my Schmidt connectors extra long so that I do not need to squeeze my fingers in there but am I still looking forward to using a tad better designed product .

fietsbob

When you put the wheel in, face them, on the hub, slightly ahead so you have easier access?

2_i 

Sure, I always put them out in the clear, but you still need to move the connectors in the plane of the spades and push them in that plane against the hub while only tips on your fingers can still hold on to the connectors - not ergonomic.

fietsbob

I manage, but I can't help you, over the internet..

Maybe leave enough cable slack to, allow you plug it in,
then put the wheel in the rest of the way?





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eepok

Ya, I think I may have just ruined the plug yesterday. I practiced soldering for a few days and think I got pretty darn good just splicing wires cleanly and heat-shrinking. I'm proud of that work.

Then I had my go at the Schmidt plug (male end). I tried for nights on end to get the solder to set in there. I read more online and I learned that the plug had to get hotter than I had been allowing it to get. So I got it hotter. The solder slipped in and solidified quickly. And then the sleeve slipped off like you said.

I think I can repair it, but now I can't get the solder in the plug to melt again.

Alphamoose

What I'm told is that you want to use very high heat for a _very_ short time. Melt very quickly and remove the heat very quickly.

unterhausen

clean the tip and tin it (put some solder on there) In this case, I would have a lump of solder on the iron and tin the wire. Then once the solder in the plug heats up, jam the wire in before anything has a chance to go wrong. I have a friend that used to solder for a living. His technique is to put solder on the iron and apply it from there. The issue is heat transfer, and this method gets around that since the solder heats everything up really quickly.

I think that I wouldn't go with high heat, I don't think it's really necessary