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-   -   button batteries L1142 & LR43 (https://www.bikeforums.net/electronics-lighting-gadgets/1157136-button-batteries-l1142-lr43.html)

rumrunn6 10-04-18 08:05 AM

button batteries L1142 & LR43
 
fun that the same size/type battery can be found w diff. model #s . don't know why the diff. manufacturers can 't just use the same #

L1142 Battery is interchangeable with: 186, 1176A, 186-1, G12A, GP86A, L1142, LR1142, LR43, RW84, V12GA, GP186, L1142F, 10L124, G12-A

noglider 10-04-18 09:01 AM

It's been like this for a long time, but luckily there are charts that show equivalences.

A popular engineers' joke is: The great thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.

rumrunn6 10-04-18 11:15 AM

haha good one. of course I go to CVS & wind up with a cpl 301/386 batteries, which on the back also have SR43 & SR43W ... rolling my eyes ... if it fits, it fits I guess. these are just for a cpl cheap bike computers

Tourist in MSN 10-04-18 03:51 PM

For several years I have been using the tables at this link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes

Most computer browsers allow control F for a search, you can quickly find your equivalent sizes with a search that way.

And another complicating factor is that some batteries come with different chemistry. For example, I have a watch that has about a dozen screws to open it up, and it takes four batteries. Thus, it takes a lot of time to change out the batteries in that watch. So I want the Silver batteries, not the Alkaline batteries. Costs a bit more but the longer lifespan of the batteries is worth it.

CliffordK 10-04-18 04:16 PM

Hmmm... I'm not sure I've used that model.

CR2032 is non-rechargeable. LIR2032 is very similar, and rechargeable, and can generally be swapped.

rumrunn6 10-05-18 03:50 AM

had a head scratcher last night. recently bought another cheap bike computer. same kind been using for years. this one tho came with a different mount & a thicker wire & bigger spoke magnet. the battery was already installed [Vinnic L1142 (H)]. but wouldn't operate. thought the battery might be covered with a clear film as I've seen before. but nope, but I did see some modest accumulation of corrosion. cleaned that out & it worked fine. the computer had a small label marked 2005. thinking the batt was 13 yrs old, I bought what I thought would be a proper replacement (Duracell 301/386). a test at home worked fine. started riding & the computer began flashing a weird display. reset the computer & re-entered the wheel factor. looked fine but when I started riding the display freaked out again. rode w/o it. got home pulled the original batt out of the trash & tested it w/ the front wheel spinning, seems to work fine. put the new batt back in & display freaked out. tested both batts w two separate testers. one said the new batt (Duracell 301/386) was OK, the other showed it was actually barely OK. both testers showed the old batt [Vinnic L1142 (H)] was way stronger. opened another new batt I bought (I bought 2) & it too was weak. guess I'm keeping the batt that came with the computer [Vinnic L1142 (H)] in for now! bought the new batts w cash & threw out the receipt. also these were CVS' lat 2 batts that matched up. guess I'll buy a cpl new ones somewhere else... weird tho cuz these computers usually just get weak by showing a weak display or none at all when the batt dies. been using this type for years. never saw the display freak like that

here's a watch battery cross reference chart that jives with what I've seen so far
http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/wat...ross-reference

Litespeedlouie 10-05-18 03:27 PM

You could've gotten old, bad cells, but my chart from Maxell says the 386 is silver oxide, and the L1142 would be alkaline. I can't say myself, but some devices and testers may be more chemistry dependent than others (voltage, current draw, internal resistance, etc).

Usually, I keep several spare cells on hand, and I'll certainly try an equivalent size cell if I don't have the exact replacement, and usually it works fine.

Maxell chart:
http://biz.maxell.com/en/primary_bat...erence_16e.pdf

rumrunn6 10-05-18 08:35 PM

another clue but maybe not

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5a4e2cc747.jpg

rumrunn6 10-11-18 07:42 PM

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a5113325b.jpeg
And for good measure got a 10 pack of these

elcraft 10-11-18 08:30 PM

Sometimes the number designation refers to the battery's chemistry, i.e.,silver oxide, lithium oxide , mercury, etc. the battery's ,external dimensions will remain constant, but different chemistries were historically associated with specific devices. Watches traditionally use silver oxide batteries, cameras also. But hearing aids or electronic devices might favor mercury or lead batteries. As long as the voltage ( usually 1.5 volts) is the same for the device, they should be interchangeable. Certain older cameras were engineered for 1.3 to 1.35 volt batteries. If you use a modern 1.5 volt battery, the meters are inaccurate. There are websites devoted to making battery shells that have a built in resistor that can reduce a smaller sized 1.5 volt battery down to the 1.35v threshold. In watches, there are also High drain and low drain versions of certain batteries. The high drain types are used in watches with numerous "complications-" stop watch or moon phase dials, etc. if your watch isn't more "complicated" with anything more than a day or date wheel, the low drain versions will suffice. The LR 44 is also known as an Ever Ready 356 or as an A76.
Happy Hunting!


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