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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 20766970)
Years ago on a sidewall alternator with incandescent bulb I wired in a couple zener diodes to trim off the voltage peaks when I went down hills. I think I used 8 volt diodes.
To some degree, it was to protect the taillight bulb when the headlight bulb blew out. The headlight bulbs were only rated for 100 hours life, so it wasn't as if you expected it to last years and years. I've got a little Jos dynamoblock light that is the only sidewall dynamo I've used, and I've never used a tail light with it... https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2946/3...0954ed_z_d.jpg .... but now I'm wondering how well the bottle dynamos regulated their current, at least in comparison to hub dynamos. Their inductance must be a lot less, but their AC frequency is quite a bit higher. Maybe their current regulation is similar to hub dynamos?? Steve in Peoria |
Originally Posted by Leisesturm
(Post 20767015)
.... I did not say I was ignorant of basic circuit electronics. Does it sound like I am? ....
What I do know, however, is that LED bulbs (Light Emitting Diodes) must have DC in order to work. ....... So if the generator hub is producing AC then there is a bridge rectifier somewhere, either in the hub itself, or in the housing of the light, but you cannot present an LED light bulb with AC, it simply won't work. ...... If I'm mistaken,, then I apologize. Steve in Peoria |
Thanks a lot for that, [MENTION=113466]steelbikeguy[/MENTION]. I don't follow all of it, but it helps. So the lights have various different designs, so we can't generalize how they would act when treating them not as intended.
I have a sidewall dynamo and ran a voltmeter across it with no load. Just on the repair stand where I probably didn't make a lot of speed, it went to 35V. And thanks, [MENTION=197614]fietsbob[/MENTION] for the e-bike light reference. I think I'll toss out this whole idea. There are perfectly fine battery lights, and there are more and more all the time, and they're getting better, too. I could figure out how to bolt them on well if I really need to. |
Originally Posted by Leisesturm
(Post 20766392)
How does a generator, dependent on the wildly varying speeds of a bicycle wheel maintain a constant alternating current?
Originally Posted by Leisesturm
(Post 20766392)
What I do know, however, is that LED bulbs (Light Emitting Diodes) must have DC in order to work. And the polarity of the DC matters, as an earlier poster discovered, since all diodes block current flowing in the 'wrong' direction, it's just that most diodes don't also emit light.
But that's not the reason most lights designed to operate off of a dynohub won't work properly on DC. If the light has different levels of brightness, there is a more complicated circuit that provides pulses of DC to the LED array. See "Pulse Width Modulation". That circuitry is designed to work off of AC in most lights intended for use with dynohubs. Many of these lights are also made in a slightly different format to operate on DC (for e-bikes) as noted earlier. |
DC may be considered a zero-frequency limit of AC. I have been testing any possible dynamo light I got my hands on with a DC power supply set to 6V and I never had any problems aside from occasional quirks tied to polarity. The set did not include Supernova but I doubt an e-bike's circuitry runs on 6V.
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Originally Posted by nazcalines
(Post 20753169)
I just tried this with a v1 Edelux. I was expecting the light to work regardless of polarity, but it only works one way (with the power to the bare wire and gnd to the insulated). Seems to be easily bright enough to use at 5V and gets barely brighter going up to 6V. I measured 100mA at 5V and 200mA at 6V. I'm going to try using it with a 4 pack of AA nimh cells.
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An acquaintance of mine told me he hooked up a 5V battery to his dynamo lights, and it worked fine.
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