cygolite
 

I've got a Cygolite Night Rover with NiCad battery. The run time between charging depends on whether you use the bright beam, low beam, or both. On low, it will easily last more than 3 hours, perhaps 4. With both lights on, perhaps 2+ hours.

With NiCad batteries, I think it is best to run down the batteries as low as possible before recharging. I generally charge mine overnight. I think it has some sort of regulating device so the battery won't overcharge, but you don't want to leave it hooked up charging indefinitely. If you are using your light for one hour every day, you should be able to go at least 2 days between charges -- longer if you use the low beam only. Check at the Cygolite website for more details.

Is anyone using the Princeton Tec Switchback 2? I've searched for reviews and can't really find any, but they look like a good light.

Thinking...
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIn3OWG6YK0

This is my Trailtech 13W HID light I got from Batteryspace.com
(I should say that some have had not so good experiences
with them, my experience has been fine) compared to a
Viewpoint Gen3 (1W Luxeon) versus two Cateye
EL300 led lights.

I searched online for a discount coupon for ordering thru Batteryspace
got the light, mounts, battery and smart charger for $197 (which includes shipping) total outlay using that coupon (I forget where I found it).

Very happy with it - stupid bright! Can't compare to the Dinotte but I
can say the Vega is a dim firefly compared to the Trailtech Eclipse 13W.

Batteryspace says the 10W HID is 550 lumen and the 13W is about
30% brighter (in the 710-720 lumen range or so). All I know is I
finally have a light I can see by. Cars definetely see me.

Runtime is purported to be in the 4 hour range, I've not done a ride
as long as that at night so all I can say is I've done multiple night
rides and not needed to recharge so far.

Trailtech makes a 30W HID that is supposedly 1850 lumen, this light
is almost too bright as it is. Check it out.

The "wired" lightman strobes simply have a wired switch. Has nothing to do with power supply.

For those of you who used the Optronics lights, did you use the wiring that comes with it? My lights came today and looking at it I'm a little confused. I'm planning to get this battery and get the male end of the trailtech as a separate connection and wiring that to the lights. Would that work? I was planning on using the crimping connectors instead of soldering but I'm not sure if I need that with the connectors that are on the wiring now.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2205

I didn't use the wires that came with the light, though they would have worked fine. Instead, I bumped the wiring up a notch from 18GA/105C to 16Ga/125C automotive wiring. I felt more comfortable with the larger gauge wire and more abrasion resistant insulation ('cause the OCP side of my brain told me to, that's why).

The Trailtech connector should work fine. Otherwise, you can get bullet terminals at RadioShack, Ace Hardware or any automotive store.

In terms of solder vs. crimping, I prefer soldered connections covered by heat-shrink tubing because they are less likely to fail in the field due to vibration, salt, dirt and general daily use. If you have the proper crimping tool, then crimping would work. I usually crimp, solder, then cover with heat-shrink tubing.

I used a little of the wiring included with the optronic lights, but most of the wiring I used was not.

I used soldering, heat shrink tubing, followed by liquid electrical tape on most of the connections, and then wrapped the wires together with black electrical tape.

However, I did use crimping connections close to the lights. This was so I could easily take the lighting system on and off the bike. I used liquid electrical tape on each of the crimped connections too.

I didn't use connections included with the lights, substituting my own instead. One thing you should know, the optronic's wires are not copper and are very "slippery". I had a helluva time attaching solder or crimping connections onto them.

Had an idea this afternoon while scheming up homemade headlights. Haven't tried it yet, just an idea.

Anyway, there at the auto parts place, they sell trailer lights, self-contained little lights for tail lights. Then over in the Bulb department, they sell a replacement bulb for taillights that has a dozen or so LED's instead of a filament bulb. I don't know what the power draw is, but that might be one way to get a fairly bright taillight withough much current. (The LED's are wide-angle, so you wouldn't want to try them for a headlight.)

Why do most of the links from first post that rate a lot of different lights not have hardly any cygolite models?

I didn't see this thread before....forgot there was a light subforum now, but I just ordered a cygolight li-ion (basically same as cygolite dualcross 300, but with li-ion battery).

Looking to spend about $150 (give or take) for a light. I need to be able *to see*, not just *be seen*, because the suburb I live in doesn't have any streetlights. I'm riding roads and paved MUP, with a 30 minute one-way commute. As a result, runtime isn't crucial. Neither's weight, since my commuter bike is a total pig. I currently have a Cateye 530, which isn't nearly enough.

From what I've read so far, it *seems* as if the halogens absolutely kill the LED lights in that price range, and even those up to $100 more expensive. For instance, on http://eddys.com/page.cfm?PageID=493 the L&M Solo (halogen) blows the more expensive L&M Vega (LED) out of the water. On the other hand, people rave about LED lights like the Dinotte, Fenix, etc. So I'm a bit confused.

Is there a downside to halogens I'm missing? Or are halogens just the best performer for my price range?

Thanks for any advice.

Yes....there is a downside compared to LED. Mainly time.....huge disparity in running time vs. power source and also longevity of bulb(s). Also, some people prefer the bluish white tint of the LED to the more yellowish hue of the halogen (though the xenon halogens less so).

The technology is also newer with the LED's.....they are coming down in price as they age. There are also some newer versions of higher intensity LED's that are arguably better/brighter (and more like HID) than the halogens dollar for dollar (like the newer Cygolite Dual Cross or TridenX).

Finally, I can buy (and did) a 80 lumen luxeon K2 headlamp for around $20. For the same price you couldn't even touch the brightness with a halogen. I have a xenon halogen Princeton tec that costs three times that much a couple of years ago.....and the K2 is close to twice as bright and casts much further down the road.

Thanks, I'm getting closer. ;) I'm not very concerned with running time so much - as long as I get a solid hour between charges over the lifetime of the battery, I'm golden. However, bulb life is a different matter. How long can I expect the bulbs to last in a halogen? I have the Cateye LED light which I'll keep using for a bar light, but I'd still rather not be left in the dark frequently. And as the replacements look to be $20 each, I suppose that could start eating into the cost savings.

I'm sure it varies, but how much ride time can be expected for, say, a 7.2V 13W lamp like the L&M Solo (which I'm considering)?

Sorry for the barrage of questions folks, but the light manufacturers are short on details and make direct comparisons very difficult.

i have an older version of this lightset by BLT. i'm looking to replace the battery charger as it can't even hold a charge now for 5 minutes. what are my options?

http://www.blt-lights.com/manuals/blt_spectrum.pdf

Hey Mr. Underbridge
I use a CatEye Single Shot + that is a rechargeable ... puts out plenty of light for me...I travel a bit on my commute through some dark bike path and find the overall light to be really good. I think I am getting at least 3 hours between charges...I charge it up about once every two weeks.
http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/462

There is smaller version of this light but I have not used it.

I'm looking for some feedback on the Princeton Tec lights. I was interested in their Switchback 1 or 2...

Anyone own one... know how they perform? What's the battery life like in real word use?

http://gearreview.com/2007_led_lights.php

http://gearreview.com/LEDs08_intro.php

THANKS!

Is the internet great or what...If I could only ride bikes there.

How do you light gurus feel about the Planet Bike Blaze 2W? I'm considering 1 or 2 of them as basic headlights. My priorities are durability (ergo LED) over all, cost of operation, then illumination (my night commutes are mostly well-lit with a few long dark stretches on road/sidewalk).
Thanks,
Hop

How long of runtime do you need?

Not long- half an hour at a time for normal, maybe up to a few hours for the occasional MUP night ride.

Just wanted to let everyone know that the Nitehawk Raptor in the chart isn't being sold any more.

Ironically a street without streetlights requires less likght than one that does.

Halogen is very cost effective, which you pay for in battery weight and runtime.

I'm getting an error once Ive downloaded the zip file.

Invalid File. Cannot open archive. Can someone please email me the chart?

I found an awesome rear lighting system.
 

I live in Austin, Tx. The other day I saw someone riding thru town with some strange, new kind of rear lighting system. The orange LED lights were part of a strap-like set up that went on his Camelbak. It was not totally dark yet, but it looked like it could be removed, and put on a different pack pretty easily. MAN....It was bright! We could see for a good 1/2 mile ahead of us before we caught up to him on the road. We asked him want it was, and he said that it was new; and he'd gotten it off the internet.
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THAT WAS THAT I SAW? Where can I find one for myself? Any help is appreciated.

something like this?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Lite...ted-LED-Bike-/