Aargh! I have an amber xenon flasher from All Electronics as a tail light. I use a 12v 8amh (Iknow, that's a lot) SLA battery, 20w halogen headlight, and have each light wired to seperate switches. Yesterday afternoon I went out to ride and my tail light wont come on. Has anyone had durability problems with this item? Is there a way to check it without disassembling the whole setup? I've considered going to a truck/trailer multi-LED tail light from the auto parts store.
Help please.

Although I have not tried the All Electronics strobe myself, I've seen several posts about it failing. :o

I went through a couple of similar amber Xenon strobes from Radio Shack. I took them apart and found one of the two terminal wires on a big finger joint sized capacitor had failed in both of them. They were burglar alarm strobes and had not been designed for vibration. I brought one more, opened it, and half covered the big capacitor with clear silicone caulk which set quickly. That strobe has lasted for more than 10 years now. I'll bet something like that has happened to the AllElectronic strobes.

HEAT SHRINK: I'm looking to get a heat gun and wonder if the cheaper high temp (600F+) models are too hot for use around bike lighting. Those with variable temps down to about 200F tend to run over $100. Worth it?

If you mean a true "heat gun", those are designed for stripping paint. Heat-shrink tubing doesn't require extreme heat. I use dual setting hair dryer set on "hot" and it does fine. I certainly wouldn't drop a bunch of cash on a special heat gun just for heat-shrink.

If I remeber right some of the heat shrink I've seen reacts at about 240F. If a hair drier is enough to do the job well then I'll hold off on a heat gun and give my wife's Conair a try. :) Heat shrink isn't the only thing I'd use it for though. I take decals off of parts sometimes and I'd rather stop using solvent.

Still curious though: What the approx. max temp safe for activating heat shrink around bike parts? I'd rather not find out the hard way. :D

Thanks,

I have always use a butane lighter to shrink heat-shrink tube onto wire. I use a medium flame and sort of gently wave/brush the flame along the tube to gradually heat it, not leaving the flame in one place for more than it takes to shrink it, rotating the wire and warming opposite sides as I go. It takes a little practice, but I have always found it to be cheap and effective. I keep a butane lighter in my tool box for just this reason. I find that a heat gun will heat it too fast. I just wave the heat-shrink tube through the heat gun blast to slowly and gently heat it if I need to use a gun. A butane lighter gives more control for small sections of heat-shrink, especially if you have temperature sensitive components or housing close to where you are shrinking. If I am doing a really long run of heat-shrink, I pass the wire quickly through the heat-gun blast or wave the heat-gun at it (like drying hair). You definitely don't need a heat-gun (the type used to strip paint) unless you are doing a LOT of heat shrinking and can place the gun on a stand to pass the shrink through the blast.

Can anyone that made a low battery indicator share their experience

I have some schematics and names of some ICs that are built for the purpose (nanovoltage comparators) but feel like I still need a bit more info

I have read this entire thread - once - but it took so long that my memory has now failed. Exactly what does this little circuit do?

This circuit allows you to vary the light output of your single or dual 20 Watt headlamps. It will allow you to use less power if you only need a headlight "to be seen" by and then ramp up the light output to various levels (e.g., 7, 10, 20, 30, 40 Watts) depending on how much light you want or need by pressing a momentary switch that will cycle you through the settings. This saves battery power, to a degree, so you're not blasting away with 40Watts when you only need 7 Watts.

I don't know if the twin has all the features of the twin plus but other features are:

• fails over to second light if primary light fails (and you're not using both anyway)
• runs over volted at 13.2v (unless you change the default) until the battery voltage drops lower
• has warning flashes when battery gets low
• goes into emergency low power settings when battery is too low
• has SOS flashing mode
• slow starts bulbs to maximize bulb life - also helps Li-ion batteries because their cut-off circuit could trigger if connected directly to high wattage bulb(s)
• allows you to use higher voltage battery setups without damage to bulbs - e.g. I have a dual 7.2v RC NiMh setup that puts out close to 16v when charged

I have finally become fed up with the battery I'm using on my bike lights. For two seasons I've been using a portable DVD player battery, rated for 9V @ 5400mAh. It's pretty small and lightweight, because it is a Li-Ion battery. It worked great... until a few weeks ago.

This battery exhibits a strange behaviour, it automatically shuts off the juice if it detects a short/over-current. That's fine with me, because it saves the battery. However, the only way to reset it is to plug in the charger. How many people carry the charger with them, or for that matter, have a wall outlet handy? Exactly.

The other problem I've been having is the connector. The tiny 2.5mm jack just can't handle the constant strain and bumps of my daily commute, and it has become highly unreliable. For the past few days I've had to ride with one hand behind my back (literally), keeping constant pressure on the cable so my lights stay on!

So tonight, I ordered an 11.1V, 7200mAh Li-Ion battery kit from batteryspace.com. With more voltage, more capacity and *waterproof connectors*, I should be all set for the winter riding season. Now I just need to find a clever place to mount the battery on my trike...

Newbies questions regarding the MR16 (picked up from Home Depot)

does the light bulb has 12 VAC (alternating current) or 12V DC (direct current) ?

I'm planning to run this bulb thru either the Dewalt 12V battery or a 12V battery bottle. I'm assuming those battery is DC type.

Would there be a problem ?

Thanks in advance

MR 16/12 volt at Home Depot should be DC.

My All Electronics zenon strobe light arrived tonight. Looks like you would not be able to take the light apart w/o some serious damage. You might have to crazy glue the case back together.

I shook the light several times. Didn't hear anything moving around.

You geeks got nothing on this guy: http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/gadgets/d...eam-218630.php

Pond Scum - Double Strength (Homebrew)
 

http://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/50...e_strength.jpg

http://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/50...strength_2.jpg

http://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/50...gth_wiring.jpg



Pond light (2x) $8.00 $16.00
Handlebar mount (2x) $10.00 $20.00
Switch (2x) $4.00 $8.00
MR16 bulb (2x) $4.00 $8.00
14.4V Battery/Charger (1x) $70.00 $70.00

Total $122.00

Looks cool, good job

I saw those pond lights before but forget where you can buy them. Have any more info?

Pretty sure those are from Harbor Freight

Pond Scum Homebrew Bike Light
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=245737

Hey folks: My DIY lights are great. I have run into a little problem with the glue. I glued the waterproof light switches to the PVC pipes. Worked for a short while(2 weeks) then failed. Seems the glued stayed on the PVC but not the switches. I used the WP switches from batteryspace.com and 5 minute epoxy. The are made of hard plastic. Any recommendations on other glues that may work? I was thinking marine goop. Thanks Charlie

Did you roughen up the plastic with sandpaper before applying the glue?

I had the same problem using some JB Weld. I am now using Devcon Plastic Welder. This stuff is supposed to have a solvent that helps melt the plastic. So far the stuff seems very robust. I picked it up at an Ace Hardware by me. It definitely helps to rough up the surface with some sand paper, then clean real good with alcohol.

you guys are good, less than an hour and 2 replies. No I didn't rough it up...my bad. I'll roughen tonight. and perhaps try another glue. Thanks guys

I put the Pond Scum light together, too. My parts list is about $62.50 and includes only 1 front light. However, there is great xenon strobe light included... if the thing lasts that long!

I posted my solution on the Car Free Living forum
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...05#post3472205
mainly so those guys could find out about this wonderful thread!

Has anyone looked into the possibility of utilizing a dynamo hub as a trickle charger to a battery?

Some batteries don't like to be charged and used at the same time. It could be done I guess, but for anything but a lead-acid battery, you'd probably need some kind of charge controller to regulate what goes in and what goes out. For the extra weight of the dynamo, the resistance it introduces, and the weight of the extra controller, you may as well add a bigger battery. It's a cool idea through, if it were implemented from the design phase-up.

I was thinking more along the lines of having it charge while it wasn't being used during the daytime (I know some people take their batteries off when not in use but I just keep mine on)
I feel it would indeed be complicated but something maybe worth looking into

You're right then, a generator could be used to charge the battery during daylight hours. Heck, you could even slap a solar panel on there and have it charge while the bike is parked at work! ;)

My All Electronics xenon strobe failed and I'm going to replace it. I need something to mount to the rear of my trunk box where the strobe is. I've thought about getting one of those magnetic mount amber flashers with the cig lighter plug on one end. Anyone use a tail light built for trucks/trailers? I use a 12v 8amh LAB with seperate switches for headlight and tail. Suggestions welcome.