Hi Glowboy, thanks for the excellent question.

I am still running the same 35W SoLux (4100k color) with the batteryspace 14.4V nimh. It's only 5AH, but this gives me over one hour of run time, which is perfect for my commute. It's extremely bright. Also, I would highly recommend overvolting with halogens, the only supposed reason not to is decreased bulb life - but let me tell you I've been running the same bulb at least 5 days a week for 6 months+ with no signs of slowing. As far as your battery choice is concerned, it's up to you but my recommendation would be to stick with nimh because it's cheaper and the slight weight difference doesn't matter much if any to a commuter.

Here is another addition to the geekyness thread...

as posted in another thread:

I got creative and mounted the Fiamm freeway blaster 134db 12v horn on my commuter bike =)

it is powered by the same battery I use for the lights... I installed a momentary push-button to activate the horn. =)

PS, for those who have trouble making anything out of these images, the fiamm horn is the black thing that looks like a shell right above the front tire...

The huge light assembly above is my malibu 20 watt 12v headlight =)

Here are the low quality cell phone pics :

http://www.velocide.com/images_old/2...mage_00004.jpg

http://www.velocide.com/images_old/2...mage_00005.jpg

http://www.velocide.com/images_old/2...mage_00006.jpg

http://www.velocide.com/images_old/2...mage_00007.jpg

http://www.velocide.com/images_old/2...mage_00008.jpg

http://www.velocide.com/images_old/2...mage_00009.jpg


edit: This thing is LOUD. VERY LOUD !!!!!!!!

Great work on the horn, fordfasterr!
If you ride in the rain very much, you might want to think about putting some sort of a waterproof membrane over the horn switch--something like a piece of tube. I found water would make the switch contacts degrade and not let enough power through to power the horn correctly.

Ok, will do =)

You can also get waterproof switches, though they will be much more expensive than a piece of tubing!

Project is nearing completion

Everything is setup right now except for the tail light (xenon) but thats just a simple hookup.
My rotary tool work is pretty pathetic so the box didn't come out great but it works and thats all I really care about

http://www.dwoloz.com/IMG_0146.JPG
http://www.dwoloz.com/IMG_0148.JPG
http://www.dwoloz.com/IMG_0149.JPG
http://www.dwoloz.com/IMG_0153.JPG

Where is the flux capacitor? :p
Nice build. Keep an eye on those bulbs--mine started to fatigue and crack near the mounting/contacts. (time frame--about a year).

Flux capacitor is on order, 1.21 jiggawatts!!


Thanks for the tip, I will keep an eye on them. I made sure the glue the hell out of them. I still feel like they will inevitably break but at 5 bucks a pop I don't mind as much

anybody know?
 

does anybody know how to make an LED light setup? I know that resistors are involved because too high wattage will cause problems in the LEDs. the question I have is whether or not several leds need several resistors, or if one resistor will work for say 20 LEDs. I have an idea for making a bicycle light that will be csomething close to infinately variable using a switch that will allow you to turn on one more led at a time. Whether or not it will work is another thing thing entirely.

"does anybody know how to make an LED light setup?"

There is a lot of LED lighting info including how-tos at http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=124 . Some of the finished projects rival many commercial products. I'm actually collecting the parts for triple Cree XR-E projcet. Nothing like a little DIY to keep a guy feeling good!:D

Update on the helmet lighting. The Fiber Optic lace arrived from Hong Kong although very cool in theory does not throw enough ambient light to be visible more than 4' away. The tube length is 3'. Brightest where closest to the LEDS (where you need it the least).

2ManyBikes sent a runner's arm band with 4 LEDs and reflectant. Had it out in daytime traffic but couldn't tell it it made much difference. Will have to have someone take my picture at various distances for day and night.

Headlight or tail light?

In any case, yes, you can use one resistor for a few LEDs. It depends on the voltage. For 12V systems, you can use five LEDs and one resistor.

Hey all you DIY Commuters - I have a completely new unused light rig including 13.2V battery, dual optronics MR16 housings w/ bulbs (dual 20W, one being one of those power savers), and dual marine grade switches currently for sale. Listing in the For Sale forum, but thought I'd post here in anyone was interested in it. :)

Read my post about 3 down from the top.

Resistors are not the way to go, you need a current source.

I've listed the components, if you can wire a plug, you can put these together.

The lens and light output of my rig are similar to the 3W Dinotte, but with longer run times.

Well, you have to consider the efficiency of using a resistor, compared to using a current regulator. Most regulators operate in the 90%-95% efficiency range, which is possible to achieve if you choose the right LED/resistor/volatge combination. For instance, if you're running a 12V system at 20mA per LED, and each LED (5 in series) draws about 2.2V, then you'll only be dropping 1V across the resistor. That works out to about 92% efficiency. At about 5 cents for a resistor, that's a whole lot cheaper than 14 pounds ($25 USD!) for a current source! It's just as safe for the LEDs, more compact, and easier to build, too.

OK, Jeff, you are unconvinced.

How about this?

The Buckpuck current source will take input voltages from 6V - 30V. It will output 1A current, as required for the K2, regardless of the input voltage.

That means you can use a wide range of battery packs, and the light output doesn't drop as the battery gets low.

I disagree about the easier to build aspect. The buckpuck is a sealed, waterproof block, with 4 wires. I just put them in tamaya connectors and plugged it together.

Yes, it's very true that the buckpuck can be powered from a wide range of voltage sources. I also agree that it's probably the ideal way to run a Luxeon emitter (in fact I use one myself). However, it's not really necessary for running a string of regular LEDs.

Also, you can get a buckpuck for much less (in North America) from www.luxeonstar.com.


So here's my final answer:

For running one or more Luxeon emitters, use a current source, like the buckpuck.

For running strings of 5mm LEDs, just use resistors matched for voltage.

Here's my membership application to the total geekyness club...:D

For a while now I've been running a homebrew light on my bike built around an MR16 plus a big 6 pound SLA battery, but after trying out a head mounted light I decided it was time to put my light system on a diet!

After much designing 'on the fly' i.e. while standing in the plumbing aisle of my local hardware shop I came up with this design. The front half of the bulb housing is a 50mm to 40mm drain pipe adapter (with the 40mm bit cut off), the rear half is a 50mm drain pipe vent. The rings are cut from 50m PVC drain pipe. The bulb fits so perfectly into the recess inside the front housing its like it was made for the job.

The bracket is cut from a piece of aluminum sheet, bent to shape, and secured to the helmet and light housing with double sided tape and cable ties.

The switch is a simple waterproof toggle mounted on an aluminum plate which is stuck to the helmet with double sided tape and a cable tie, the switch body and wiring sits inside the helmet's vent.

The battery hasn't arrived yet but it is a 14.8v 6.6Ah Li-Ion for about 3 hours run time on my 20w MR16. The battery is about 510 grams (18 ounces), the housing with MR16 bulb comes in at 77 grams (2.5 ounces) with the bracket, switch, switch and wiring there's about 100 grams (3.5 ounces).

The added weight on the helmet feels negligible, but in use the extra height from the handlebars to the helmet plus the ability to aim the light wherever I'm looking is fantastic. It seems to allow much further throw down the road.

Right now I'm carrying the 6 pound SLA battery in my backpack so I'm really looking forward to the arrival of the lighter battery.

Now that's geeky.

Still working on ambient and day vis for the helmet. Found a tail light housing for the back of the helmet and it's so good, I'd like another. Can any one tell me which car uses this Tail light**********????

BUMM 327 K30018 Tail lights (they're super reflective and have a secondary housing for the actual light.

BMW?

I did an Internet search for "BUMM" and "327" and came up with Busch and Muller Toplight (under rearlights on their web site). These lights are made for bicycles. Is this the tail light you have?

FrankenBiker that's it!

http://www.bumm.de/docu/grafiken/327as.jpg
http://www.bumm.de/index-e.html
TOPLIGHT
* with integral large reflector
* With bulb 6V/0,6W
* Tools are not required for bulb changing
* Available with plug or crimp connectors for current and mass
* With approval D and E

EDITED: Do not use this reflector on the back of the helmet.In an accident it could injure your spine. Back to the drawing board, seeking a flatter reflector that shows at the three angles like the one Franken found.

Also, I don't understand the reflector rating systems. Ex.
A
B
CH
D
E
F
GB
Z

vrkelley--

those seem like european country abbreviations to me, especially CH (Switzerland, I think), and GB (Great Britain).

edit: I looked at the site, I don't know what those are.

Would it be difficult to modify a NiteRider NR50 with a 20watt MR11 bulb? Do I just simply replace the bulb and thats it? Or will there be some modifying involved?

No modification needed as long as you are using an MR11. Save the heat shield off the old light (if it has one) and reinstall it on the new bulb.

Thanks for the help..
another question: the NR50 uses 4 C batteries 1.5V each, so I need a 6V bulb correct? What if I put in a 12V bulb?

Use 2 RC car packs from All-Battery. Wire them in series to get a 14.4 V pack. Charge it as a single unit and go have fun. Mine look like this:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/IMG_0193.jpg

I use a Dean Ultra Connector and just jump the wire so that everything is in series. I put them in a container I got from REI called a Rocket Cage

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/IMG_0106.jpg

On the bike it looks veeery nice;)

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/IMG_0169.jpg

The rocket cage looks niiiice. Jsut a suggestion to improve here. Where you cut the opening for the wires to come out, why not line the edge with silicone or crazy glue a rubber edge liner then thicken the batter cable by wrapping a few layers of heat shrink or electircal tape (E-tape) and then push that part of the cable that you wrapped to make thicker into the silicone/rubber lined edge and you have a nice water resistance seal for when the weather gets wet.


Zero_Enigma

BTW anyone know how to or ever built a 1W brake light? I was thinking of something like o===O===o on the back of the rack or chain stays. My idea goes up a set by having an on/off switch for that break light because when you're on the trails/bike paths you don't need the breaklight on. It's just a drain of power. When you're on the roads then you turn the switch on so when you brake you get a nice hot 1x1W or 1x3W or 1x5W (pending the LED you put in) to signal that you're slowing down. Helps in a visual aid as well but most poeple can tell when the speeds are slowing down but better safe then sorry.

The position of the brake light I was thinking of would be in the center of the rack.