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trx1 08-15-11 09:35 AM

neat way 2 b seen thats different for the front fork...not the brightest, but just something different

genel 09-20-11 08:50 PM

Reworked the headlights on my setup this year. Two 6 watt narrow beam LEDS, and a 4 watt bulb. Each LED has it's own switch on the top of the switch box. I'm using a 14 V NiMH battery pack for normal use. But for the next couple of months will probably use an 18 volt LIPO pack and only use a couple of the bulbs. Rear lights are a pair of Whelen TIR III's. I usually run these with a 9 volt nicd. But they'll run fine on a 9 volt battery.
The three MR16 bulbs mounted in PVC connectors.
Battery case with switches. Power Pole connectors throughout.
Dual Whelen TIR III's, I usually run the left one flashing and the right one steady.

Leo H. 10-15-11 03:26 PM

I am starting to research a 6v dynamo system for my lwb recumbent and I'd like to know from those on the forum who have a 20" front wheel, what lights do you recommend considering lighting beam patterns are set up for 26" wheels?
I have a couple of Serfas model lights currently and an issue I have with them, mounted at the base of my handlebars is that the overspill from these lights is annoying; I try to have solid water bottles in my bottle cages on the handlebars in order to block the spill lighting as I look forward. I have considered taping some sort of lightshade around the top of the headlight, but haven't been bored enough to bother, just yet. I'm definitely ensuring any new lights I get do NOT have the extended clear lens around the light as this model does.

christ0ph 11-30-11 03:46 PM

I was wondering of anyone has added LEDs to existing (battery style) LED taillights? I have a 5 LED Ikzi Light reflector/taillight - its an inexpensive, but for the (very low) price, I think its a nice, solidly built lamp with a decent sized reflector surface built in. The sides are completely clear and it has tons of room inside that seems as if it could be put to good use with additional LEDs. It already has 5 LEDs 3 face backwards, and two, one on each side face 90 degrees to the side. It does not blink, its a steady light. It has the two screws for mounting on a rear rack. Along the top rim, where the existing LEDs are, there is room for easily 4 or 6 more LEDs which is what I hope to do with some Phillips SuperFlux LEDs that I have, (decently bright) If I insert them along the top rim and get the spacing right, I think I can use the plastic optics, which is sort of a linear lens there - in the same manner as the LEDs that are in there now are doing. However, I dont want to attach them to the 2 AAs as the others are, as I would rather have them on a separate circuit that could run off of a dynamo.

Has anyone here done this kind of cheap reflector tail light additional LED retrofit?

The superflux LEDs are quite bright, considering their size. I think it could look very nice.

I also saw an idea recently that makes a lot of sense to me, brake lights..
Why not put microswitches in my brakes so that when I apply the brakes several additional LEDs are switched in? I also have a red 1 watt Luxeon Star I could use, but then I would worry about the heat since there is no ventilation inside the red plastic lamp. Of course, if it fits (just looking at it it looks as if it may) can attach the back of the luxeon to a small self adhesive heat sink (the kind that you can self-apply to hot PC components) and/or piece of aluminum or copper (an old penny?) or only use it as a brake light..

Is there some kind of national traffic car light spec for car or motorcycle lamps so that I can design my lamp additions to conform, sort of, to whatever visual language that is appropriate?

Tor 12-10-11 05:31 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I just did a little experimenting with the Philips LED Bike light I got. Nice light on the whole, though perhaps not as bright as I would ideally like. The shaped beam is a sizable advantage, though, as I no longer have way too much light on my front panniers. More details on use as is can be found in thread!?p=13585851 . Here I will be including details for those who might wish to use one of these as a headlight withing a larger fancy system and don't mind risking voiding warranties.

Mounting: The stock mount clamps semi-perminently (though tool free) to the handlebar. From my reading the handlebar height mount is desirable to keep because the height affects the effectiveness of the beam shape. The clip on the light body is attached to the battery compartment with internal philips screws, so it should be possible to mount it to anything - with one caveat. The mount holes have a ~1" spacing, and the allen screw that keeps the battery cover closed is ~1/2" from the mount hole.

Construction: The case is solid metal (I think sold as, and feels like aluminium). I've dropped mine once from handlebar height to concrete with slight cosmetic damage.

Power: Comes with 4 NIMH AA batteries, and charges from USB (cable not supplied, but highly standard) or power cord they supply (mine, ordered from Europe, came with two pin plug, but adapter will accept 100-240V 50/60Hz, so no great difficulty there.)

As for internal power, the battery holder is marked 1.2-1.5V under each cell, and illuminated quite happily with alkaline batteries. I also attached an 800mA rated voltage regulator to it. At 6V, I was able to get it to run happily, except that the converter became too hot to touch after a few minutes. At 4.5V it ran well enough on low, but when I tried to switch it to high it complained of low battery and then switched back to low. I had to disconnect power to get it to return to high.

Unfortunately I can't give exact readings of power usage because the multimeter I'm traveling with only handles 200mA. The manual says that it should last 2 hours on high with the included 2450mAh NIMH, or 1225mA at 4.8V nominal yielding about 5.88W - a figure that fits my experience with the converter.

For obvious reasons, I can't test now, but I have seen a mention online that when running 6V external through the main circuitry, the high to low swap occurs by timer. I have seen another note saying that the battery monitor lights operate by timer, but the light will happily run while showing 0 bars. Seemed to have something to do with which version of the light was being used.

When the light was charging, it wouldn't turn on. There is room to slip a power cord in past the USB jack in the back of the light but you then wouldn't be able to able to close the rubber cover - an issue of varying significance. It should also be possible to drill a hole in the case for a wire to fit through, though I'm not sure there is all that much room between the battery holder and the case. The battery holder riveted to the main circuit board, so you'll need a drill and a soldering iron if you want to remove it neatly.

I have seen a suggestion that one could remove the original circuitry entirely and run the light off a b2flex (from, and as a bonus get higher power out of the thing (1A through the LEDs instead of 800mA. This, however, is unsubstantiated, source forgotten (too lazy to hunt up now), internet reading). You're on your own there, though please post back if you try it.

All in all, I like it, though I would like to set up a symmetrical high beam on an easy switch for darker out of traffic situations.

Attached are pictures of the internals I figured I might as well take while I had it open. You are responsible for what your hands do.


hotbike 12-20-11 08:23 AM

Someone told me to post here. Here goes;

These shots are of the newest Lighting System:

Note the amber marker light, can you see it?

I decided to build a Human Powered Vehicle back in the seventies (that's the nineteen hundreds to you young folks). Went through several renditions before I built this, the Type Ten.

I've never posted a picture of myself before, but here I am:

The photo below is important, on account it shows the Yellow Chain-guard (Total Geekiness):

The Equipment which is not mounted to the bike is shown here, a red flag, road cones, and reflective vest:


The NFA Vehicles Type Ten has two twelve volt lead-acid batteries. The one on the left is 12v/7ah and the one on the right is 12v/12ah.
The Headlight came in a box:
and is a 12 volt LED version of the 20 watt Halogen MR-16.

The Tail Lights are made by Signal-Stat, but they were packaged in bags under the NAPA brand label, as their Part # 1050.

I do not have the part number of the amber marker lights, but I tell you they each have two LEDS.

The Front End of this Bike is like a Vehicle, it is mounted to the frame at the head tube, and it does NOT turn with the handlebars. Since the weight is not borne by the handlebars, the steering is much easier.

The Type Ten carries an Inverter which gives 120 volts, up to 140 watts.

There is a Five Band Radio inside the front Fairing, so NOAA Weather Radio is available at all times . Which is useful, say, if you are on a ride and you see storm clouds.

The Fairing is a Recycled Apple iMac computer case, now painted yellow, and has Shark Teeth painted on it. The Shark theme is further emphasized by the fiberglass Fin, which supports the seat of this bike.

In closing, I would like to ask anyone who has NOT seen this bike before, to reply (or email me) and say you have never seen this bike before. I think most people have seen this bike before, and I believe I may be wasting my time posting here, although I have never posted to this sticky thread before, I have posted it in other forums.

alexaschwanden 02-17-12 06:12 PM

^I never saw a computer modern mounted on a bike before, that is awesome.

GlowBoy 05-23-12 10:14 PM

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I think it's been quite a while since I've posted to this thread, probably not since before I switched from halogen to LEDs early last year.

The latest setup is pretty simple, with a P60 flashlight drop-in module mounted in an old TurboCat light head and held in by a lens cut from an old Petzl headlamp. The module fits PERFECTLY inside the light head when I screw down the cap, giving good thermal transfer.

Needs it too, because the module is an XM-L (from nailbender on -- VERY high quality work) driven at 2.8A. Supposedly around 1000 lumens from the emitter, and probably 650-700 genuine OTF lumens. I got a 3-mode module, which has 5%, 40% and 100% settings. Even the 5% setting it puts out more light than a lot of the old-tech bike lights and flashlights. On 40% I find it enough for most night riding as long as it's dry out, and 100% is just enough for riding in the rain with my middle-aged eyes.

Batteries are 4 sub-C 4200mAh NiMH cells, recycled from the 14.4V pack I had batteryspace build me a few years ago, and mounted in a kids' water bottle. Good for about 100 minutes on high, 4 hours or so on medium and a whole lot of hours on low. Pushbutton switch is also from batteryspace, and the Andersen PowerPole connectors were prewired ones I bought off eBay. All told I probably have about $100 worth of parts in this thing.

Heatshrink and electrical tape on the connections look pretty ratty, but it's functional. I've also attached a shroud to provide a sharp top cutoff to the beam and avoid blinding everyone else. XM-Ls cast a pretty broad beam -- not as ridiculous as the MagicShine, but there's a lot of wasted light. The shroud is cut out of a yellow water bottle, and reflects enough light back down onto the bike to make it glow yellow. Wasn't intentional, but I think it helps conspicuity quite a bit. At first the glowing yellow shroud was hurting my own night vision, and one day at work I found a tea bag wrapper and taped it on so it doesn't catch my eye quite so much.

Because of the broad beam, I'm going to retire this unit to mountain-bike duty for which it's much better suited. My commuter bike is about to get upgraded to a dynohub, and I'll be doing a DIY project with that soon. Pics when it's done, or sometime thereafter.

Tor 07-18-12 04:38 PM

Time for another update on my system.

The Phillips LBL I posted about earlier in the thread works quite well on high, though I wouldn't mind brighter. Just drilled a cable entry in it and stuck the guts of a USB car charger amazon link in the battery compartment. I desoldered the USB port board and the original power connectors, and then soldered my wires in their place. Beautiful tiny little creature once you get it apart properly. The light works great on the bench, though I haven't run it long. Haven't gotten to try it at night yet or take pictures.

Next on the list is to make a high beam. I've found a 920lm four LED board Luxeon Star and a 25mm 10 degree lens that I'm thinking might go very nicely in a piece of 1" copper pipe. Probably will wire it in two parallel sets and get their 1400mA controller and using a SP3T switch (off on on (hmmm... seems I've seen this, or at least on off on listed as SPDT)) to feed either one pair of LEDs or both in series. Should be about $70 all told, and have plenty of forward power to complement the LBL as my primary light.

This isn't set is stone, and I'm also eying some of the newer emitters, though they would probably require a more complicated setup. Anyone have other ideas for me to consider?


Tor 07-31-12 03:57 AM

Well, I am on my way. I just ordered (to be delivered on production) a housing for the LED set I mentioned above. Available at the project page, you can get a better deal on a single housing if you are quick. (No connection to the project - except that I would kind of like the extra rear cap.) I'll post details when I finally get everything here and put together.


Sprayman 11-22-12 09:23 PM

No need to post pics, because I'm sure you've seen it before. But, I'm very happy with my latest lighting setup. I purchased a small flashlight from Home Depot. The light has something like 110 lumens. It's not terribly bright, but good enough for my purposes. I mounted it on the handlebars with two hose clamps. Works great!

lostforawhile 12-02-12 08:47 PM

if it hasn't been said, already, they make multi LED red marker lamps for trailers, they are sealed, and extremely bright, I actually used one as a third brake light in my antique Honda project, add a 5 dollar electronic turn signal flasher, the two terminal kind, and you have a blinding red blinking rear light

genel 12-09-12 06:05 PM

FWIW, I replaced my 4W LED for another 6 W 15degree bulb. That makes a grand total of 1000 lm that are aimed along my route. I aimed them at about 15, 20 and 40 ft out. Very bright! Easily as bright as a car light.

trx1 12-30-12 03:40 AM

want geekiness?? try this...

you will find alot of other ideas if u think about it

hotbike 01-10-13 12:32 PM

Mounted an AM/FM/Shortwave Radio on the handlebars yesterday. Not very loud, but that's Okay, I want to still hear cars coming. I like to pedal to the beat of some music. The shortwave function is good when I get out and away from power lines, which make noise on SW frequencies.

hermes07 05-22-13 06:39 AM

9 Attachment(s)
Ekoteh night rider - prototip

Led: 24x44000 mcd
Power consumption: 2,4 w
Current: 1 A
Luminosity: 319 lumen max
Beam angle: 15 degree
Temperature color: 5000 k
Lighting module: carbon-kevlar-fiberglass sandwich construction pressed and sticked
Finish: 3 layers of transparent lacquer
Girder: cast aluminum
Finish: matt black
Excellence: light and strong construction, efficiency
Negative characteristic: complexity of construction caused by composite materials and artistic design
This unique light probably will never go in mass production but im kind of proud to represent it and share photos and experience collected last 5 years playing with bikes lights.
Some lights seeing on photos are product of patience and hand fabrication. I used just simple machine tools like bore-machine and grinder, rasp, bench press and simmilar.
Matterials are ultra quality made for durability and strength.

Ekoteh illuminator - prototip

Led: 8x390000 mcd
Power consumption: 8 w
Current: 2,4 A
Max luminosity: 1300 lumen max for 3 sec (blic mode)
Nominal luminosity: 900 lumen as long as batteries can supply
Beam angle: 40 degree
Temperature color: 7000 k
Lighting module: carbon-kevlar-fiberglass sandwich construction pressed and sticked
Finish: 3 layers of transparent lacquer
Girder: cast aluminum , l profiles
Finish: matt black
Excellence: light and strong construction, efficiency
Negative characteristic: -
As the first officially model NR this one will also never see mass production. There is two of this light here in Croatia riding and after one year of using they meet the expectations.

Ekoteh BB1 - Battery box - prototip

Battery technology: lithium ion
Cappacity: 8,8 Ah
Voltage: 3,7-4,2
Battery menagement: -
Weight: 470 g without embracer
Dimensions: 70x40x95 mm
Construction: attached on 4 point, carbon-kevlara-aluminum sendvich construction pressed and sticked connected with aluminum customized u profiles
Charging plug: built in
Excellence: strong durable construction, vibration resistant, stilish, ultra materials and design
Negative characteristic: challenge to mount it on bike, need for tools and experience
As we looking for investors all help and comments are welcome.
Best regards and thanks in advice for your comments
Predrag - Ekoteh association, Osijek

hermes07 05-22-13 07:00 AM

Like battery in bottle, cut the expenses for battery box:thumb:

hotbike 05-14-15 12:38 PM

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Okay, so this is the photo someone took of me, and posted on Facebook. It is claimed that this shows me "blocking traffic at rush hour", but I replied that it shows the bike outside the fog line, with ten feet of room to spare for passing traffic. The "Farm Triangle" has now been lit up with LED Tape...
Thanks for reviving this thread... The Radio , mentioned above, became a real hassle, as I made a video, and posted it to Youtube , and someone complains that I was violating the copyright of the musical group... It took three tries to edit out the music, and even with traffic noise, and another piano piece dubbed over it, it can still be heard , slightly, in the background... So that's why I gave up using the radio...

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