Shimano DH-3N70/71 voltage limiter?
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Shimano DH-3N70/71 voltage limiter?
I just received this new generator wheel the other day and plan to power several leds in series. Does this hub have any voltage limiter in it that would prevent full power to the leds? If so, is it removable?
Also, the choices for LED diy are truly mindboggling.
TIA.
Also, the choices for LED diy are truly mindboggling.
TIA.
#2
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They are fine running LEDs, no voltage limiting zenner, I have the 70 on my MTB (4LEDs) and 71 on the road bike (3LEDs). Both work fantastically!
See pilom.com for circuits, see my sig for build details.
See pilom.com for circuits, see my sig for build details.
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Thanks, that's good too know. And also, thanks for the links in your sig. I'll study them.
I'm thinking about 3 in series, 2 for the front and 1 for the rear.
I'm thinking about 3 in series, 2 for the front and 1 for the rear.
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Heres my DIY dynamo powered LED headlight.
10 degree narrow lens on the left and 15X30 degree elliptical on the right.
bridge rectifier and 1000uF capacitor on perf board. Note the copper straps to leach heat from the copper sheet mounted LED's into the aluminum housing. I used a common aluminum electrical outlet box and plastic cover so it's all water proof. There is a clear plastic sheet between the front cover and gasket keeping everything tightly sealed. This light produces an exceptionaly good pattern and it's as bright as a 20 watt MR-16 halogen light setup due to the optics used with the SSC P4 Z-power LED's.
I just use a standard blinkie as a taillight. The batteries last for 200+ hours and I don't care to run wires from the dynamo to a light on the rear. You would still need a blinkie on the rear to compensate for stops when your dynamo taillight would quit working. Also note my use of an amber blinkie up front so I can be seen by others when stopped at a traffic light or sign.
10 degree narrow lens on the left and 15X30 degree elliptical on the right.
bridge rectifier and 1000uF capacitor on perf board. Note the copper straps to leach heat from the copper sheet mounted LED's into the aluminum housing. I used a common aluminum electrical outlet box and plastic cover so it's all water proof. There is a clear plastic sheet between the front cover and gasket keeping everything tightly sealed. This light produces an exceptionaly good pattern and it's as bright as a 20 watt MR-16 halogen light setup due to the optics used with the SSC P4 Z-power LED's.
I just use a standard blinkie as a taillight. The batteries last for 200+ hours and I don't care to run wires from the dynamo to a light on the rear. You would still need a blinkie on the rear to compensate for stops when your dynamo taillight would quit working. Also note my use of an amber blinkie up front so I can be seen by others when stopped at a traffic light or sign.
Last edited by n4zou; 06-19-08 at 08:39 AM.