Have you tried DeoxIT ?
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Have you tried DeoxIT ?
Deoxit is amazing, it really does what they claim. Especially on a single cell (lower voltage) like a 1.2v Nimh light.
It has made some of my lights a lot brighter, especially on low. The brightness increase in my Nitecore D-10 and my Fenix LOD is excellent. I was skeptical before. It does not seem to lose anything over time, even on lights that go in and outside in the cold weather all the time.
(They might get a little condensation on the inside parts).
https://www.fenix-store.com/product_...roducts_id=238
It has made some of my lights a lot brighter, especially on low. The brightness increase in my Nitecore D-10 and my Fenix LOD is excellent. I was skeptical before. It does not seem to lose anything over time, even on lights that go in and outside in the cold weather all the time.
(They might get a little condensation on the inside parts).
https://www.fenix-store.com/product_...roducts_id=238
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Or you could just use a pencil eraser. That works too.
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Or prevent the corrosion from forming in the first place. Google "Corrosion Block". I have been using the stuff for years on my boat (all my boating is in the saltwater by the way). It does work.
I also use Corrosion Block on the battery terminals on my truck, and I apply a light coating to the electrical contact points on all my other battery powered things.
I also use Corrosion Block on the battery terminals on my truck, and I apply a light coating to the electrical contact points on all my other battery powered things.
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Corrosion block? Is it any better than what the industry has been using for 50 years, white lithium grease? That's what I use and it works totally fine. If it can keep an exposed automotive connector working through a salty Michigan winter, it ought to work almost anywhere.
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Lots of things work. Different applications sometimes work better with different products.
This seems to last better than just a pencil eraser. Also lots of small things I have can't be reached with the eraser, but it does work. So does a clean flannel shirt. I guess a clean paper towel would work too. WD-40 works too.
This seems to last better than just a pencil eraser. Also lots of small things I have can't be reached with the eraser, but it does work. So does a clean flannel shirt. I guess a clean paper towel would work too. WD-40 works too.
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Yes. Lithium grease is thicker and better suited for things like bearings. Corrosion block is a thinner liquid and can penetrate to places a grease can't.
For example, in my boat trailer bearings I use a marine grade heavy axle grease. Every so often I push more grease in, and if the old grease pushed out looks too funky I remove the tire and inspect everything. Then repack.
The engine block and all electrical connections on my waverunner get sprayed with Corrosion Block, or one of the many similar products (BOE Shield, Fluid Film, etc).
Two different applications, two different things.
Likewise, you don't put lithium grease in the oil pan of your car - you use motor oil.
A bicycle is a machine. A fairly simple machine compared to a boat or car, but still a machine. What is good for one part of this machine may or may not be the best option for another part. That is all.
For example, in my boat trailer bearings I use a marine grade heavy axle grease. Every so often I push more grease in, and if the old grease pushed out looks too funky I remove the tire and inspect everything. Then repack.
The engine block and all electrical connections on my waverunner get sprayed with Corrosion Block, or one of the many similar products (BOE Shield, Fluid Film, etc).
Two different applications, two different things.
Likewise, you don't put lithium grease in the oil pan of your car - you use motor oil.
A bicycle is a machine. A fairly simple machine compared to a boat or car, but still a machine. What is good for one part of this machine may or may not be the best option for another part. That is all.
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Spray-on lithium grease is intended for electrical contacts, and is quite thin until it sets up; I think it has a thinner when in the can. going on thin and then setting up thicker is ideal; it penetrates into cracks and then stays there.
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