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Was going to buy Magic Shine. Now what to buy?

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Was going to buy Magic Shine. Now what to buy?

Old 11-19-10, 08:00 PM
  #26  
colleen c
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Originally Posted by socalrider View Post
I have a couple of P7 and while they work well, I think the MC-e lights put more usable light in front of you.. Most P7's throw a very wide beam.. I would seriously consider either the Romisen R5 - 300 lumens OTF - http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...4-II-R5/Detail

The new MG P-Rocket Cree XP-G R5 450+ Lumens - Cool White w/ OP Reflector - http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...-rocket/Detail

If price is not an option the best and brightest single cell light is the Elektrolumens EDC-MCE Light - http://elektrolumens.com/EDC-P7/EDC-MCE.html

Pictures posted below are of the MCE light.. Best source for 18650 cells overseas is HKequipment seller on ebay, he buys direct from Ultrafire, that is why his prices are a little higher.. I have yet to receive a bad cell from them.. Bought cheaper from other sellers and they were either factory 2nd or fakes..

Japanese UF2600's - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Chinese UF 3000's - This is what I use - http://cgi.ebay.com/Ultrafire-Rechar...item4cef162ffa
I've been playing around on my partner's bike with various flashlight combo. I found that using one of the MG P Rocket XP-G R5 along with a MTE P7 is a good combo to get a "pencil shape beam" The MG is angle to throw farther out while the P7 is more tilted downward.
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Old 11-19-10, 08:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by colleen c View Post
I've been playing around on my partner's bike with various flashlight combo. I found that using one of the MG P Rocket XP-G R5 along with a MTE P7 is a good combo to get a "pencil shape beam" The MG is angle to throw farther out while the P7 is more tilted downward.
I found the Cool White models to be a little brighter than the neutral model.. OP Reflector gives a little wider beam while the smooth is little tighter beam pattern for better throw with still a fair amount of side spill.
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Old 11-19-10, 08:37 PM
  #28  
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Thanks for the replies. For the last several years i have been running about 25watts of halogen via two different units. Currently both battery packs are at the end of their life and I am looking to move to LED and forget the incandescent.

Would one or two of these LED flashlights that are recommended above be a viable alternative?
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Old 11-19-10, 09:02 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by socalrider View Post
I found the Cool White models to be a little brighter than the neutral model.. OP Reflector gives a little wider beam while the smooth is little tighter beam pattern for better throw with still a fair amount of side spill.
Same here. I bought a neutral model in the X-Thrower and P-Rocket in the SST-50. Although the Lumen was only differ by 100 lumen (800 vs 700), the actual light are so much more brighter in the Cool White. So when I bought the MG P Rocket in the XP-G R5 in a OP, I decided to get the Cool White (preminium) only. I do not recommend using the Neutral as headlight for bicycling.
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Old 11-19-10, 09:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Fynn View Post
Thanks for the replies. For the last several years i have been running about 25watts of halogen via two different units. Currently both battery packs are at the end of their life and I am looking to move to LED and forget the incandescent.

Would one or two of these LED flashlights that are recommended above be a viable alternative?
Yes and on top of that, the power source for those will be much smaller and lighter to run LED as compare to the 25watt halogen. Personally I like to run at least 450 lumen and higher at any given time as a minium. However in term of bangs for the buck, I also recommend to see what Geoman's plans are for the MS light. The amount of light you get from a MS and the runtime are still top rated for the selling price.

Edit: Unless you prefer single cell powering the light and get away from multiple cell like the MS light, than a Flashlight is the way to go.

Last edited by colleen c; 11-19-10 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 11-20-10, 05:18 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
Any details on the DIY halogen setup you made?
Yeah, HERE's one from BF and HERE's one from MTBR.

At first look these builds are a little complicated but you're really just doing two things in essence.

1) Find some housing that fits a MR16 bulb. I used the HF light in the pond scum build for my first set, but the soldering inside the light gave out (probably because it's a HF light, duh). The second I used a little 12V car light thing I found at walmart that was pretty similar to what cyccommute used in his build. It doesn't matter really what it is as long as it can hold an MR16 bulb and has a wire sticking out of the back. The MR16 bulbs are easy to find in Home Depot / Lowe's but the one's that batteryspace.com has are better and you can get one with more of a spotlight angle reflector (link HERE)

2) Connect the housing to a 14.4 volt power source. By giving it 14.4 volts instead of 12 volts you get 40% more light than you would at 12v, but only 10% of the bulb life. The batteryspace bulbs say they have a 4,000 life, so you only get 400 hours from a $2.96 bulb. I just carried an extra bulb and swapped it out when that happened, 400 hours is a pretty long time on a bike.

Originally Posted by makeitso5005 View Post
Why in the world would anyone choose to invest in a halogen setup at this point? LED's are so much more efficient and they can be setup to have plenty of light output. Halogens waste so much energy in heat that you're carrying around at least 2-3x the battery weight to get 50% less life than an LED (P7 or similar) setup. Not to mention the light head can burn you if you accidentally touch it while riding.
Because you can easily build up a halogen system that puts out way more light per dollar spent. LED's are more efficient, but still cost more. You're right about the battery weight though. What finally convinced me to change from the halogens to LED was because I wanted to switch to a dynamo rather than carry/charge/remember to charge/attach batteries. I now have an E3 supernova light, my cheapie halogen was probably twice as bright with a nice yellow color that is easier to see in. I never burned myself on my light either.
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Old 11-20-10, 08:42 AM
  #32  
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I realized that there is a difference in the plugs! It may not affect all, but for some it may be an issue.

While the replacement battery works with the MagicShine lights and chargers, the plastic plug housings are a little different. The replacement battery has a plug that conforms to so called TrailTech standard, the MagicShine products use different plugs. While they create electrical connection just fine, they don't snap in into each other to form a water seal. Besides the obvious, it also makes them easier to pull apart. So for those with with the connection exposed this will present a problem. For me, it doesn't matter because I run a MagicShine extension cord to my waterproof pannier and the connection point is safe inside the pannier. On a side note I think that MagicShine should adopt the TrailTech plugs, they appear to be much beefier.

See this video:

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Old 11-20-10, 10:43 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by AdamDZ View Post
I realized that there is a difference in the plugs! It may not affect all, but for some it may be an issue.

While the replacement battery works with the MagicShine lights and chargers, the plastic plug housings are a little different. The replacement battery has a plug that conforms to so called TrailTech standard, the MagicShine products use different plugs. While they create electrical connection just fine, they don't snap in into each other to form a water seal. Besides the obvious, it also makes them easier to pull apart. So for those with with the connection exposed this will present a problem. For me, it doesn't matter because I run a MagicShine extension cord to my waterproof pannier and the connection point is safe inside the pannier. On a side note I think that MagicShine should adopt the TrailTech plugs, they appear to be much beefier.

See this video:

Can the end of the plastic housing on the Trail Tech connector be grounded or filed off such that the electrical connection can be inserted deeper inside the housing? Or does the connection is pretty much solid as it is without modification?
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Old 11-20-10, 11:07 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by colleen c View Post
Can the end of the plastic housing on the Trail Tech connector be grounded or filed off such that the electrical connection can be inserted deeper inside the housing? Or does the connection is pretty much solid as it is without modification?
I doubt it. There isn't much to play with. You might be able to insert it deeper but you wouldn't get a tight water seal from it. The best solution would be to replace the plug on one end and use heat-shrink tubing to provide seal for the splicing point.

I'm thinking about doing that. The cable on the battery is way too freaking long and bulky anyway. I think I might want to cut it short and solder MagicShine connector to it (I have some spare MS extensions that can donate the plugs.
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Old 11-20-10, 11:35 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by AdamDZ View Post
I doubt it. There isn't much to play with. You might be able to insert it deeper but you wouldn't get a tight water seal from it. The best solution would be to replace the plug on one end and use heat-shrink tubing to provide seal for the splicing point.

I'm thinking about doing that. The cable on the battery is way too freaking long and bulky anyway. I think I might want to cut it short and solder MagicShine connector to it (I have some spare MS extensions that can donate the plugs.
Thanks! This info will give me a better choice making if I make my own pack and which connector to use. That Trail Tech seem like a better connector, so I think I might chop off the MS plug and use Trail Tech.
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Old 11-20-10, 11:52 AM
  #36  
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The TrailTech connector does seem to be stronger. If you build your light system from scratch it's probably the best way to go. I just don't want to replace connectors on all my MS lights and chargers so in my case putting a MS plug on these batteries might be a simpler solution. Although, for now I'll just leave them as they are. If I find that they slip off and get disconnected I will replace them, otherwise this is fine with me.
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Old 11-20-10, 12:05 PM
  #37  
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Thanks for the information about the connectors, Adam. Did you buy a different charger for the new battery?
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Old 11-20-10, 12:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by colleen c View Post
...The amount of light you get from a MS and the runtime are still top rated for the selling price.
But the margin seems to be closing. Light and Go has a couple of lights in their line which may challenge MS on both scores. Two of the lights appear to be helmet only while 2 are helmet/bar mount. The Fireball is a triple XP-G for a claim of 1100 lumens @ $119. The Foride is a quad XPG for 1400 lumens @ $149 - a little pricier than the 1400MS but it looks cleaner and more elegant than the mouse-ears light, IMO.

Note that even though Light and Go is a Korean company the lights are all Chinese, in fact they are made in the same province as the MS and have the same skimpy 90 warranty.


A direct comparison to the MS might be the Gloworm. A P7 light like the MS. At about $120USD it seems pricier than a MS but it comes with a 5200mAh battery and a 3yr warranty which puts it above the MS on my list.

YMMV

Last edited by Plutonix; 11-20-10 at 12:18 PM. Reason: speeling
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Old 11-20-10, 12:35 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Plutonix View Post
But the margin seems to be closing. Light and Go has a couple of lights in their line which may challenge MS on both scores. Two of the lights appear to be helmet only while 2 are helmet/bar mount. The Fireball is a triple XP-G for a claim of 1100 lumens @ $119. The Foride is a quad XPG for 1400 lumens @ $149 - a little pricier than the 1400MS but it looks cleaner and more elegant than the mouse-ears light, IMO.

Note that even though Light and Go is a Korean company the lights are all Chinese, in fact they are made in the same province as the MS and have the same skimpy 90 warranty.


A direct comparison to the MS might be the Gloworm. A P7 light like the MS. At about $120USD it seems pricier than a MS but it comes with a 5200mAh battery and a 3yr warranty which puts it above the MS on my list.

YMMV
That Foride looks awfully tempting for me.
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Old 11-20-10, 12:37 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
Thanks for the information about the connectors, Adam. Did you buy a different charger for the new battery?
You're welcome. No, my current MagicShine chargers work with these new batteries. The batteries are are made of the same type of cells (18650) that the MagicShine batteries are made of, just arranged differently, same voltage, same capacity.

Originally Posted by colleen c View Post
That Foride looks awfully tempting for me.
The competition is definitely working in our favor

Adam

Last edited by AdamDZ; 11-20-10 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 11-21-10, 08:52 AM
  #41  
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Try Cygolite

Originally Posted by Fynn View Post
I was going to buy a Magic Shine in the next week or so and now in lieu of the recent battery recall, I don't know what to do. What would be a reasonable substitute for around $100?
I personally believe that everyone else's lights are too expensive ... and Magicshine is probably a little too cheap. There are certainly compromises that are being made in their manufacture. If you can't get the cheap stuff, might as well buy something a little higher quality.

Your next best bet would be Cygolite TridenX Li-On. It's a very good build quality at a reasonable price. They're slightly brighter than the magicshines with a more usable light pattern. They don't have the highest quality LEDs (like Dinotte) but it's a good value that's square in the middle of Magicshine and Dinotte.

I'm pretty stoked about their new Centauri-1000. Hopefully they'll finally send a lite into mtbr.com for comparative testing.
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Old 11-21-10, 09:28 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by willtsmith_nwi View Post

Your next best bet would be Cygolite TridenX Li-On. It's a very good build quality at a reasonable price.
http://www.amazon.com/CygoLite-Tride.../dp/B0011W6M12

That is a $300 light. I am looking to spend closer to $100. I think their are tons of options for $300, i just don't want to spend that much.
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Old 11-21-10, 09:50 AM
  #43  
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Comes with Costco's no questions asked return policy. You threw out the packaging, no problem; it's been 5 years since you bought this product, no problem; no receipt, here's your refund

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product...=1&topnav=&s=1
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Old 11-21-10, 10:32 AM
  #44  
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Kicking advice around about lights is as incredible as guessing whether or not some one's eyeglasses work as well as they want.

Every one "sees" something different about what a bicycle light could or should do.

And then of course, if you are lucky enough to still be working and making $60,000 a year, then you have whole different ideas of costs than someone in grad school or semi-retired/employed.

So what to do. Probably the only paths to take fall in to two broad strategies.

One, go ahead and admit bike lights are VERY important - and you need to spend at least $200 on a starter lighting system.

Two, try the cheap stuff first. And know ahead of time - you get what you pay for. So realize that there will be more light later -when you spend more money.

My only point, is that I already thought these things out when i started, and I own Dinottee, Fenix, Quark, Magic Shine, Planet Bike, Cat Eye, Union halogen, Sanyo, Vistalight - both NiCad and C-cell lights. I have three multi meters, four chargers and my brother is an electrical engineer with 40 years experience.

So what do I know? You have to have tried many lights in many situations to know why one will satisfy better than the other.........
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Old 11-21-10, 11:18 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Fynn View Post
http://www.amazon.com/CygoLite-Tride.../dp/B0011W6M12

That is a $300 light. I am looking to spend closer to $100. I think their are tons of options for $300, i just don't want to spend that much.
There are some MS-like options in that range: Light and Go has lights ranging from (what appears to be) 200Lumen/$79 to 1400 Lumen/$149. They are similar to the MS (made in China - same province in fact, 90 day/ 90 mile warranty).

Gemini Lights has a light fairly similar to the MS for $110 (use THAT link, 'node 44' goes to a $110 page instead of a $130 page). Includes a carry case and battery seemingly heftier than the MS.

Also, there is the Gloworm. The info reads like a improved MS with a 5.2Ah battery. Runs about $120USD + s/h.

If you can stretch the $100 a bit more (ok, a factor of 2), Jetlite's A-51 starts at $199, is probably as brite as the MS and a warranty that will run beyond the next time you change the chain. I am waiting to see the price on their X1 model due out RSN. It is not $100, but it is not $300 either.

Otherwise, if you are pathological about staying near $100 you might have to check out flashlights. These can work fine, but the runtimes tend to be quite a bit less than a decent bike light.
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Old 11-23-10, 12:19 AM
  #46  
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the light and go lights look pretty good. seems they use the same type of battery as the MS?
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Old 11-24-10, 06:15 PM
  #47  
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Update on my replacement batteries

These batteries seem to be all right. I have two headlights and two batteries, one per light. My commute is about 40-45 minutes. I rode three times in the afternoon with lights on high beam and two times in the morning in the SOS mode* and the LED is still green. At least on one light, the other is messed up and the LED is always red... eh, MS quality... The cable doesn't get disconnected inside the pannier either (I was worried about that). I'm going to order two more as spares, but I'll email GeoMan first to check how they're doing with the replacement batteries.

*Two lights in SOS mode create a nice blinking pattern, better than the strobe mode

Last edited by AdamDZ; 11-24-10 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 11-24-10, 08:28 PM
  #48  
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Thanks for the update, Adam. Glad those batteries are working for you. A little electrical tape around those connectors might be a good idea.

I assume the MS charger is charging the new batteries well?

Last edited by Steve530; 11-26-10 at 04:30 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-30-10, 12:56 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by tFUnK View Post
the light and go lights look pretty good. seems they use the same type of battery as the MS?
I was thinking the same. Kinda defeats the purpose if they use the same bad batteries.
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Old 12-06-10, 10:02 AM
  #50  
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Does anyone have any thoughts on the MJ828 battery as a replacement? As far as I can tell, they're not included in the recall, are definitely different (different case, 5000mah capacity vs. 4400 mah capacity, includes a charge indicator) than those included in the recall, and are relatively cheap. Also, they have a screw together case, so it may be possible to replace individual cells inside. Anyone have experience with this one?
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