sanyo light dyno nos convert
 

i have a sanyo dyno that fits under the bottom bracket where the kick stand goes it came with a light. the light looks great square and plastic silver. as with any old dyno light it goes out when you stop moving. Has any one made one of these or the like into a stand lite with a compaciter in line. there is lots of room in the lite housing to hold added electronics. i don't know electronics but can solder.

There used to be an add-on standlight unit. Scroll most of the way down this page for what you're looking for: http://www.yellowjersey.org/standlite.html

How about just getting this, it's pretty affordable: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails...00&preview=yes

that site is great but i was hopping some one would know what electronic set up i could make, and put inside the light housing.

The original Sanyo light was an incandescent. The LED headlights are far superior. They will go to full brightness at walking speed; they draw less power; and they already come with a standlight. N.B. the front standlight is less important than one for the rear. You will spend more money for components than the cost of the low cost front light linked above. You will recover your initial investment on the first pothole you avoid with the new LED front light.

I used the Sanyo bottom bracket dynamo, when it came on the market about 32 years ago. It has a very weak spring. This causes the dynamo to slip in the rain. The slippage caused me to change to a Soubitez bottom bracket dynamo. The second problem is that it does not have overvoltage protection. This is extremely important, if you plan to use it with an incandescent light. It's also important for a home built LED design using a capacitor driven standlight. I did not see such protection in the cirucuits mentioned by Mr. hartsu. The overvoltage cirucit is usually mounted in the light.

There's an updated version of the Sanyo http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/sanyo.asp and scroll down. I have one but have not yet put it through its paces. I've used it for city commuting with street lights. It's fine. It's got less drag than the old Sanyo and it does not slip. That is probably due to the rubber around the wheel.

I've done a few short total darkness rides and it's also good. N.B. I've used it with a 1w LED light as opposed to a 3w halogen light. I'd expect less drag from a 1w system than a 3w system. The 1w LED puts out a better beam than the 3w halogen.

+1 to all of that. LEDs and dynohubs are worth the investment if you want a generator system to live with on an ongoing basis. If you're mainly looking for "style points" with a cool retro look, rather than reliability and functionality, then carry on :)

sanyo gen
 

hey thanks i was going for style points and i think ill just leave it alone. it works great. i have the one wit no rubber wheel it must be older. i road it through flood waters just last sunday totally submerged and worked great. if i get some thing different ill get the battery op cat eye the new one with led top model and take off the dyno and put a kick stand back on. thanks all for help. it was a great rain ride.

I had one of those - I used it on 400k brevet - 25 years ago - I think I still have gen - my brother the engineer made a rectifier and gave me a NiCad battery pack. (AC bridge rec)

I guess it is fun to play -but not a lot of light.

How far back does the new dynamo reach back from its mounting point? I have a '61 Raleigh Sports I want to fit this dynamo to, but I'm not sure if it's possible.

I've devoted a lot of time upgrading vintage lamps with modern LEDs and standlights. Martin's circuits (the pilom link referenced above) are definitely a good start. DIY standlight advice is plentiful over at the CPF Bicycle Lighting forums. My solution is a little different than Martin's but seems to work well: http://minisystem.blogspot.ca/2011/1...prototype.html

I was making lights, but I got addicted to just plunking down the credit card and having it done for me. I love standlights. There is a retro version of the lumotec lyte. The beam is weird, but it puts out a lot more light than the Shimano it replaced, and I'm guessing the 20 y.o. halogen lights are pretty similar in light output.

It's possible to offset the top and bottom mounts to move the new dyanamo way back. It requires a bit of filing with a rat tail file. I've got mine mounted on an old Cannondale touring bike. I just measured the chainstay length at 18" or 45.72 cm.