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Anyone use the Sanyo H27 dynamo hub? Inputs please!

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Anyone use the Sanyo H27 dynamo hub? Inputs please!

Old 12-05-17, 07:37 PM
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Eubie Blake lived to almost a hundred years old. Someone asked him if there's a secret to long life. His reply: "If I'd known I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself."

Similarly, if I had known I would like dynamo hubs so much and that they last so long, I would have spent more in the beginning, but my Sanyos are nothing to complain about.
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Old 01-22-18, 02:27 PM
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Something of a cross-post. Built up my new front wheel yesterday afternoon. The goals for this wheel, since it's going on my beater commuting fixed-gear, are:

1) dynohub
2) inexpensive
3) wide rim for a bigger footprint on the snow, but
4) without being excessively heavy

So I used a Weinmann AS7X rim ($18, 25mm inner width but only 488g), the eponymous $40 Sanyo/Panasonic H27 hub, and 40-cent Sapim double-butted spokes from Danscomp. Everything laced up and came together smoothly, and I nailed the spoke length. Sorry for the crappy pic, that overhead light likes to wash out the picture, but without it pictures in this area of the basement are too dark.



Can't wait for my cheapie FoxEye dyno light to come in the mail so I can try it all together.
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Old 01-22-18, 07:12 PM
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I also find that a good red makes better wheels.
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Old 01-22-18, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
I also find that a good red makes better wheels.
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Old 01-23-18, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DAME
Has anyone heard of reliability issues with the less expensive dynamo hubs? I'm thinking about using it on some of the gravel roads/paths in the area...i'll likely encounter some water, grime, etc...
I've had some experience with the early "Joule" dynohub, originally available on some Dahon bikes. These were 6-volt, 3-watt hubs; AFAIK they are no longer available. They were made by Sanyo, IIRC, and were relatively inexpensive. I've replaced the bearings in one of the three Joule hubs I own. The output-side bearing failed by water ingress. Another hub failed because of corrosion of the output connections, which was also able to be fixed. I mention this hub because to some extent the corrosion problems could be prevented by slathering the output connections with grease (I used silicone dielectric grease, but regular wheelbearing grease would probably work as well). Details of these repairs are available here: https://hubstripping.wordpress.com/2...le-dynamo-hub/.


Originally Posted by krome
I'm hearing good things also about the Shutter Precision PV-8.
The Biologic Joule 3 is made by Shutter Precision. I have one that I used on my Dahon for a while, then transferred to my Tern folder. This hub has over 5,000 trouble-free miles on it with no evidence of trouble brewing. Recently I found an SP hub on sale (it was anodized red) and bought it. I am about to build it into a 700c wheel for my road bike.

I recommend keeping the output terminals and connectors covered with a layer of grease as noted above to prevent corrosion problems. Also, I would recommend positioning the hub so the wire connection is pointing down and slightly rearward. This allows the wire to form a "drip loop", which will prevent water from dripping down the wire and directly into the hub's connections.
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Old 01-24-18, 10:52 AM
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I have had the plug on my Shimano hub , a simply folded over bare wire, lose contact and the ,lights go out JRA..

never had that happen with the spade connectors on any Schmidt hub.
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Old 01-25-18, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
I have had the plug on my Shimano hub , a simply folded over bare wire, lose contact and the ,lights go out JRA..
I've had that happen too. Filling the gaps in the connector with silicone grease before inserting it into the hub will prevent the wires from corroding, which is a significant potential cause of connection failure in these hubs. The excess grease should extrude through all the holes as the connector is inserted; this can then be wiped off, leaving a thin film.
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Old 01-26-18, 10:00 AM
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not corrosion, It physically, was coming loose..
splicing in a short piece of heavier , than the B&M twin lead, wire, was considered, then the hub lost it's ground and went DNF,
so I replaced it with the new Brompton- Schmidt XS, which I found in stock at Peter White cycles, as a DE built wheel ..
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Old 01-26-18, 10:25 AM
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I have never had one come loose in use, including time in an overcrowded bike rack at work. Had a light broken in the rack, but the connections never came loose.

I have had occasion where I stripped the wires back and re-did the wiring in the connector. Not as often as I've fixed my friend's crimp terminals on his Schmidt though.

I feel like there is a right way to wire the connector and a way that barely works. maybe I should make a youtube video. I'm not a big fan of this style of connector, but it does work and it's cheap. I use my SP hubs with this style of connector on my gravel bike and my mountain bike, and have no problems at all with those hubs even though they get dirty and take a lot of shock.

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Old 01-26-18, 10:29 AM
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Ok, anecdotes are one persons testimony nothing more..

I'm probably doing a much better job of putting the crimped spade terminals on than your buddy,



I'm Older too. from the age of mechanics.
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Old 01-26-18, 10:41 AM
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Well, in every thread about this style of connector, you post about having problems with it. But nobody has backed up your anecdotal evidence of problems with the shimano connector. There are 10 dynohubs in my family with the shimano style connector, and my kids and I have never had a problem with them, so we outnumber you right here in my own household.

My friend does a horrible job crimping, that's why I have to redo it for him. He's also the one that has trouble taking the spade connectors off. I actually know more people that have had connection problems with Schmidt hubs because it's such a pain to deal with. It's not like the average person is good at crimping things, or has the proper tool, it is a skilled activity. You forget to disconnect the wires when fixing a flat and the shimano just pulls apart. With a schmidt, you are going to be without lights until you get to a place where it can be fixed. I got a schmidt for my fatbike, I'm dreading dealing with those spade connectors myself. Spade connectors aren't really intended for frequent assembly/disassembly. I much prefer the Schmidt SL, but that's $$$ and not always practical. I would be a lot happier with the schmidt if they used a connector like the shimano. Maybe they will wise up.

I know some pretty good bike mechanics that have me do their bike wiring. It's not really something every bike mechanic would be good at.
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Old 01-26-18, 10:50 AM
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@fietsbob, were you twisting the bare wires before inserting them into the plug and folding them over? It's just something I've always done without thinking about it, but probably helps increase the pressure at the connection so it can't work loose.
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Old 01-26-18, 01:26 PM
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The Wheel is For sale, I sent hub off for troubleshooting, and the ground issue was resolved,

Shimano-Brompton hub alone retails for $95 built wheel $ 100..
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Old 01-30-18, 12:05 PM
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this thread inspired me to design a shimano-style connector for Schmidt hubs and have it 3d printed, stay tuned.
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Old 01-30-18, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by unterhausen
this thread inspired me to design a shimano-style connector for Schmidt hubs and have it 3d printed, stay tuned.

Wow, I'm biting my fingernails. So far I was using something quite low-tech for quick connection and disconnections. It would be good to step up. I hope you make it available through Shapeways.
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Old 01-30-18, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by unterhausen
this thread inspired me to design a shimano-style connector for Schmidt hubs and have it 3d printed, stay tuned.
Should be a straightforward design similar to how the Herrman H-Track connection plug works and still allows the use of 2.8 mm female connectors if that's what the owner wants instead. The Son of course would be using 4.8 mm size connectors/openings.

As far as the Shimano connectors, all of mine snap into place, so I haven't experienced any disconnect during a ride. Plus I usually tin/solder the wires or crimped connectors to maximize electrical conductivity. Bare wires will corrode over time. I would also recommend cleaning the contacts and wires plus inspect the wire covering for cracking from sun/heat/UV damage and replace as necessary once a year or 2.
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Old 01-31-18, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Sci-Fi
Bare wires will corrode over time. I would also recommend cleaning the contacts and wires plus inspect the wire covering for cracking from sun/heat/UV damage and replace as necessary once a year or 2.
Dielectric grease is the actual solution inhibiting corrosion and reducing frequency of needed maintenance.
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Old 01-31-18, 10:35 AM
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I'm moving to fusion 360 from solidworks, or I would be done already. The SP connector would actually work in a pinch, slides right on with a little friction. The hole is a little wide, so it would be more reliable if it was filled with something. I should try a Shimano and Sanyo to see if they could be modified to work on a Schmidt.
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Old 01-31-18, 12:20 PM
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The SP and Shimano connectors appear to be identical, I use them interchangeably. I have two SP hubs, one Shimano hub that I have used and recently bought a used wheel with another Shimano hub.

I have never had a connector fall off, I usually instead have difficulty pulling it off without pulling the wires out of it. I have the connector on top, so gravity is not likely to try to pull it off.

In the photo I have a SP hub but I think it is a Shimano connector. The Shimano connectors are cheap and readily available, so the only SP connectors I have are the two that came with the hubs I bought. But my Shimano hubs were in wheels that I bought used, no connectors included.

I usually use wire that it thicker, heavier gauge than the wire provided with the lights, that is one reason that I often have trouble pulling the plugs off, the heavier wire makes the connector fit tighter.
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Old 01-31-18, 12:29 PM
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Shimano hub is grounded to the fork, SP hub is not. I did not realize that the Shimano hub was grounded, thus I had several hours of confusion on why some lighting did not work for me until I realized that.

In the photo, there is only one wire from the hub to the light, the hub being grounded to the frame provided the rest of the connection.

In this photo, an SP connector on a Shimano hub.

The photo represents an experiment. I had a light that I was not using and it would be difficult to mount the light on the fork crown because of the way I have my canti brakes configured. I concluded that the light was too low to the ground and it cast too many shadows. Thus, I did not like the light installed that way, have since changed it.
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Old 02-02-18, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
...were you twisting the bare wires before inserting them into the plug and folding them over?
I like to twist the wire and then "tin" it (solder fills the gaps). Works well.
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Old 02-02-18, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sweeks
I like to twist the wire and then "tin" it (solder fills the gaps). Works well.
Steve
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Old 02-02-18, 05:24 PM
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tinning is generally considered to be a bad idea on any connection that will see flexing, like this one does.
dielectric grease seems a lot better.
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