New computer with vintage sensors?
If I splice a new (Cateye Strava) computer harness to vintage sensors, do you think it would work?
Cateye gave me the canned legal mumbo-jumbo resonse: Cateye does not recommend splicing, soldering or otherwise separating and rejoining the wires of CatEye bracket/sensor kits. (YES, I have a good reason for wanting to do this.) |
The wired sensor is a reed-switch that breaks a circut when the magnet passes it. There isn't any magic going on.
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Originally Posted by njkayaker
(Post 15268708)
The wired sensor is a reed-switch that breaks a circut when the magnet passes it. There isn't any magic going on.
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This is my reason for wanting to undertake this splicing job:
http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps797e81d7.jpg |
Originally Posted by TampaRaleigh
(Post 15268758)
This is my reason...
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Agree. I know of no system that uses anything other than reed switches for cadence and wheel sensing. Thought there are other possibilities, I don't think they are as practical for this application.
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Originally Posted by njkayaker
(Post 15268708)
The wired sensor is a reed-switch that breaks a circut when the magnet passes it. There isn't any magic going on.
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Originally Posted by Looigi
(Post 15269008)
Agree. I know of no system that uses anything other than reed switches for cadence and wheel sensing. Thought there are other possibilities, I don't think they are as practical for this application.
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I had always just assumed they used hall effect sensors. Seems like you could actually count spokes, like they do with gear teeth
I think that attaching to the stub of a wire at the headtube end is going to be a problem |
I think quiescent power draw is the key characteristic. Reed switches may have a limited life and slow response, but at the total usage and rate on a bicycle, they are the best current solution, IMO.
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Originally Posted by unterhausen
(Post 15271511)
I had always just assumed they used hall effect sensors. Seems like you could actually count spokes, like they do with gear teeth
I think that attaching to the stub of a wire at the headtube end is going to be a problem |
Good luck with the wires. They are extremely thin and difficult to handle. I've tried re-wiring headphones and it is almost impossible to make it work, and I think these are even thinner. I gave up on the headphones and just bought another pair. With the cheaper wired computers I'd just bite the bullet and put in a new set. I've built a fair amount of electronic equipment too, although far from an expert, so I wasn't a noobie at soldering and handling the stuff.
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Interesting. Is that a modified frame or full custom?
I'm guessing it will work but like zacster mentioned, the solder job will be tedious. I know I couldn't do it but some can. When I was a kid, I remember my dad doing several custom harnesses for obscure reasons. One was putting a Campagnolo ergo brain on a bike Friday tandem. He had to extend the harness and add a disconnect, |
Originally Posted by thirdgenbird
(Post 15279792)
Interesting. Is that a modified frame or full custom?
I'm guessing it will work but like zacster mentioned, the solder job will be tedious. I know I couldn't do it but some can. When I was a kid, I remember my dad doing several custom harnesses for obscure reasons. One was putting a Campagnolo ergo brain on a bike Friday tandem. He had to extend the harness and add a disconnect, I took on the surgery last night... and it was a success! I pulled the old wires out through the bottom bracket shell, fished the new wires down the downtube, spliced and soldered, covered it all up with a couple layers of heat shrink, and put the bottom bracket back in. |
Go wireless ...
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