2014 surly ICT - can I upgrade the casette?
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2014 surly ICT - can I upgrade the casette?
I have 2x Shimano SLX drivetrain with an XT rear derailleur. The Crankset is Surly’s own O.D. model with a 36/22t chainring combination....
if I wanted to replace the casette today what are my compatible options?
if I wanted to replace the casette today what are my compatible options?
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How many speeds is it, and what is the current range of the cassette (how many teeth on the largest and smallest cogs)?
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If you're looking to expand your gear range and stick with Shimano, you may want to change the shifter and derailleur along with the cassette.
11spd SLX grade is about $30 for the shifter and $55 for the rear derailleur right now. I've had good luck with SunRace cassettes at 46T which are a little less than Shimano. But don't forget an 11 spd chain. Total upgrade will run about $150.
If assuming you currently have 10spd, you can get to 40T (sometimes 42T also) with an adapter (goatlink) to lengthen you current derailleur. It works okay and will get more gear range by not to 46T. I recently switched to Shimano 11spd on my Fatback and really like the extra range. I have a 1x with a 30T chainring so the range is even more important.
11spd SLX grade is about $30 for the shifter and $55 for the rear derailleur right now. I've had good luck with SunRace cassettes at 46T which are a little less than Shimano. But don't forget an 11 spd chain. Total upgrade will run about $150.
If assuming you currently have 10spd, you can get to 40T (sometimes 42T also) with an adapter (goatlink) to lengthen you current derailleur. It works okay and will get more gear range by not to 46T. I recently switched to Shimano 11spd on my Fatback and really like the extra range. I have a 1x with a 30T chainring so the range is even more important.

#4
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I would bet, with it being a 2014, you have a 10 speed.
Just upgrading the cassette should be something you can achieve with the goat link listed in qclabrat 's post. You will also need to check if a new chain is needed once you make this addition because the bigget cog needs at least 4 more links than the existing chain - it all depends on how much room there is for play in your current chain.
If you have a bit more $$, I would (and did) upgrade to a 1x eleven speed drivetrain.
Just upgrading the cassette should be something you can achieve with the goat link listed in qclabrat 's post. You will also need to check if a new chain is needed once you make this addition because the bigget cog needs at least 4 more links than the existing chain - it all depends on how much room there is for play in your current chain.
If you have a bit more $$, I would (and did) upgrade to a 1x eleven speed drivetrain.
Last edited by medic75; 02-10-20 at 01:17 PM.
#5
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Don't use those beyond-specification cassettes or extenders unless you want it to shift like s$%t.
Get an 11 speed SLX RD that is rated up to 46t. For added luxury usr an XT shifter. That, or do the same in 12 speed.
Get an 11 speed SLX RD that is rated up to 46t. For added luxury usr an XT shifter. That, or do the same in 12 speed.
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I managed to put an10 speed 11-42 SunrRace in place of the 11-36 in my Fatboy with an X5 long cage derailer without the wolftooth extender although I planned to use one if I couldn't. It was such a good straight across swap I left it alone. I plan to replace the chain in the spring when the salting is over and may add a couple of links then but it climbs and shifts fine as is. I did not even need to adjust the indexing.
P7030815 by dc460, on Flickr

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I ended up going up 2 teeth ;-) to my on my 10 speed Sun Race casette from 40 to 42. Ended up replacing the shifting cables too and my chain. The bike is amazing now. :-) Thank You everyone for your advice.
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I managed to put an10 speed 11-42 SunrRace in place of the 11-36 in my Fatboy with an X5 long cage derailer without the wolftooth extender although I planned to use one if I couldn't. It was such a good straight across swap I left it alone. I plan to replace the chain in the spring when the salting is over and may add a couple of links then but it climbs and shifts fine as is. I did not even need to adjust the indexing.
P7030815 by dc460, on Flickr

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Right now I'm trying to work an 11/40 onto an old Shimano LX that ran a 34T. It's almost working, but I think I have to expand the chain a bi as it struggles to make the last jump. The manufacturers say a lot of stuff but sometimes you just gave to try and see what happens.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 02-21-20 at 09:50 AM.
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I guess so. It was a jump up from stock 36 but everything went smoothly.
Right now I'm trying to work an 11/40 onto an old Shimano LX that ran a 34T. It's almost working, but I think I have to expand the chain a bi as it struggles to make the last jump. The manufacturers say a lot of stuff but sometimes you just gave to try and see what happens.
Right now I'm trying to work an 11/40 onto an old Shimano LX that ran a 34T. It's almost working, but I think I have to expand the chain a bi as it struggles to make the last jump. The manufacturers say a lot of stuff but sometimes you just gave to try and see what happens.
Do you mean SLX?
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Interestingly enough, first real ride ended up with trouble. I had a chain suck happening between chainstay and cranks. I had to replace the small cog on the crank. Seems the old one got 'conditioned' to the old chain too much.
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The rear LX derailer is part of an old school 7x mtb group set on a 92 KHS. Over time I have added an 8 speed cassette hub to the original rims and have a 8speed wide range Sunrace cassette. SunRace | CSM680
Last year I had it working fine as a straight across cassette swap using the stock derailer but then put that wheelset on a different bike and ran a 7 speed cassette again. Now I'm returning it (the 8 speed) to the KHS again and so far it doesn't want to shift up into low. Just an adjustment issue but a little frustrating.

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[QUOTE=Happy Feet;21340533]Chain stay and cranks or cassette? That can be a pita when it gets jammed in there..
Chain stay and cranks. It's all good now.
:-)
Chain stay and cranks. It's all good now.
:-)
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#14
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Happy Feet It doesn't appear that there is any need to add links to the chain. That looks perfect to the big cog.
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Happy Feet It doesn't appear that there is any need to add links to the chain. That looks perfect to the big cog.

I probably just need to release all the cable tension and start from the beginning again. As is I can manually put the chain on the large cog and it runs but it just won't shift that last little bit on its own. I think I put a tad too much cable tension on when I switched to the 7 speed.