I don't think you're missing anything.

The big difference between clipless and discs, is that clipless pedals didn't require you to redesign the entire bicycle to accommodate them. Didn't like clipless? No big deal - unscrew them and put your old pedals back on.

Disc brakes require frame and fork mounts, and specialized disc specific hubs. Most have dedicated levers, rims that are not compatible with rim brakes, and frames that do not have cantilever bosses.

I have a dozen bikes that will NOT work with disc brakes, and many wheelsets that will also not work with disc brakes.

If people love discs, great, get them. As you mentioned above, there are situations where they are better - riding constantly in wet weather, mountain bike racing, tandems, even small wheeled recumbents. But I think some of the advantages people tout are way oversold.

The "stopping better in snow". What??? I've ridden many winters in Minnesota - the main problem with braking when it is snowing is applying TOO much brake, causing your tires to lock and put you on the ground. If it is snowing, I'm riding super-cautious - same as if I were driving a car. The traction of your tires against the road, not rim vs disc brakes, is going to be your limiting factor in stopping.

The other thing mentioned, "wearing out your rims". No doubt true if you are constantly riding in rainy conditions like the pacific northwest. Personally, I've worn out exactly one pair of rims in my life (45 years of riding), and that was on my mountain bike that I raced through many muddy courses - and that was after the rims were ten years old. At which point a bought a new set of rims, and laced the old spokes into the new rims one by one. A half hour job per wheel. The wheels with the original spokes are still going strong.

If you really want a scary braking experience, try riding an old Raleigh 3 speed with crap brakes, crap levers, crap pads and chrome rims, in the rain. And Raleighs had fenders - almost as if they had been designed to ride in the rain! That's how I learned when I was a kid!

The difference in braking performance between an old Raleigh and a modern caliper or V-Brake is many orders of magnitude larger than any difference between a modern caliper or V-brake and disc brakes.


That is what worries me.

My opinion is cantilever brakes suck, big time. I toured on 2 different rigs, with me on them about 270 pounds. I also had 2 mountain bikes with cantis.
Disc brakes are so much better than cantis in so many ways.

Something else to consider: like frames of the same material can feel different, ride differently, handle differently,etc., don't lump all disc brakes into the same pile. Some are much more controlable than others.
To me, on the mtb, one of the biggest advantages is the consistant feel. You can count on them to always be the same. It isn't super ultra power that makes them work, hell, I've gone over the bars using vee brakes.

You likely are not Adequate on the brake set up Mechanics . so be it ..

I've been setting up my cantilever brakes on various bikes since the 70's and they have worked reliably.

but if disc brakes get you to ride more , complain less, they must be worth It ..

I Have a disc Brake Bike Friday, It works too.


my best cycling was touring in Europe , you like mountain biking , to each their own, thats why no 1 bike (or even parts pick) is right for everyone.

True, they need frame and fork mounts. Only hydraulics require special levers. Special rims, and frames without other brake mounts, are possible in order to save weight, but are not required.

I don't see discs becoming the 'only' choice - ever. I do think they're going to become more accepted and more common as the technology gets better and the weight comes down more. But some weenies will never accept them simply because ANY extra weight is anathema.

Yeah, v brakes with kool stops have freaky braking power.

Also, I've descended at 50+ mph on my road bike with dual pivots many times and never felt unsafe. Braking power was quite good.

I'm not sold on this claim that discs are more consistent in their performance.

My v brakes have the same consistent feel in terms of braking power and modulation they've always had for 10+ years.

Here is a interesting thought re brakes: Ever think about the fact that each manufacturer has one standard design, regardless of the expected weight of the rider? Waif or Clydesdale ... the design is the same ... only the grip strength of the rider is different (presumably, better for the Clydesdale than the waif).

That one size fits all approach is unique to the bike industry as far as I am aware. They don't put SmartCar brakes on an F-350.

I was just thinking the same thing. There are plenty of forum members here who are 300-450 lbs. Their braking needs are different than mine.

I find dual pivots and v brakes to be more than sufficient with stock pads, even on very fast descents A rider who weighs 2X or 3X as much as I do otoh, may find it a necessity to use hi end hydraulics even stopping from 15 or 20 mph.

That's pretty condescending. Maybe you're not....

With the 99.99% dry cycling I do and Kool-Stop brake pads I'm have plenty of braking power with clinchers.

Well known Motto " its a poor mechanic who blames his tools "

its problem solving , some people are just better at it than others ..

likewise people's expectations of results differ ..

JfK was still breathing when I was repairing my bikes..

Dual pivots and v brakes are super easy to adjust and set up properly. I even have my bottom of the line tektro dual pivots working more than adequately. They're breaking in far better than I would have ever suspected, and I don't even need to upgrade the pads.

A quick pad swap would boost the braking quality from good to very good. Upgrading pads is a $10 upgrade, front and rear.

What we're most likely talking about are very heavy riders (300 to 500 lbs) who insist on hydraulics, or techno weenies who will adopt anything that requires a battery or oil to work.

FWIW he Pad swaps in my Magura HS33 rim brakes could not be easier they Literally Swap With a Snap Fitting.

and unlike all cable Brakes the pad moves to the rim in a straight line ,,

all typical cable brakes have a pivot. as the Pad wears thinner the point of contact gets closer to the Pivot.

one has to Pay attention to that and keep relocating the pad upward on the brake so the pad continues making full rim contact..

U brakes are the opposite there the pad wear changed Upwards (pivot above Rim )
Ignored the Pad starts wearing thru the tire side wall and you get a Flat tire too..


Hydraulic disc Brakes do offer an auto Pad wear compensation .. Mechanicals the adjuster is someone's Hands.

Properly-setup-cantis work well and can stop a bike --> this is true. But if you rate stopping-power and efficiency in all conditions, brake-systems rank in this order (best to worst):

1) hydraulic disc brakes
2) mechanical disc brakes
3) v-brakes
4) cantilevers and calipers

This is just extreme theoretical catastrophizing. I rode 105 dual pivots for a decade. I never replaced the pads, and they never wore out. I rarely had to adjust the pads, either.

Seriously, are all of you disc brake advocates 400 pound sumo wrestlers? Do you ride on the ocean bottoms every ride?

Low cost mechanical discs range from frighteningly bad to just barely adequate. Higher end mechanicals work well, but the pad noise is very annoying.

What's disingenuous about these posts is the notion that all mechanical discs work equally well. No. Some work well, others are abysmal in quality.

Dual pivots don't work equally well, either. The quality of pads varies.

The black and white thinking is lazy. High quality dual pivots and even my budget v brakes offer very good stopping power with stock pads and excellent stopping power with higher quality pads such as kool stops.

Of course, these are all subjective claims one way or the other, and will remain so until manufacturers provide proof that discs are superior stoppers or modulators. Since we've had a couple of decades to wait for this data, safe to say it doesn't exist.

I'm retelling what I've seen in the decades of working on Other people's Bikes in Bike shops ,

and actually How things work ..


you are talking about a personal anecdote of one bike Of Yours ..

Does this thread REALLY need to descend to personal attacks?

You maybe be right --> Which discs are YOU talking about?

My assumption was that we were talking about equivalent levels of quality in each category. You can apply my list to Walmart's bikes, Bianchi's bikes, or whom-evers and I'll stand by my statement, unless YOU can explain why I'm wrong.

Okay guys, lets keep this a DISCUSSION about the brake systems, not on who is more mechanically inclined. And remember, what works for some, may not work for others for WHATEVER reason. Let's please respect each other here okay? Thanks

You are also offering personal anecdotes. Brakes which are properly set up and adjusted stay in adjustment.

Hydraulic disc brakes are a wonderful improvement over...drum brakes. :)

Seriously, in my very hilly area vintage Dia-Compe sidepulls do a great job when maintained properly.

The one thing I dont want to do is bleed brakes, especially if it's automotive brake fluid. That stuff doubles as a very dastardly paint stripper.

Can I use a Brooks saddle on a disc brake road bike? If so, what chain lube should I use?

bananas. because they have no bones

I have it on mine. I use white lightning.