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Anyone using a 46/30T crank on a road bike?

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Anyone using a 46/30T crank on a road bike?

Old 10-05-17, 04:26 PM
  #251  
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A bit off topic (or tooth count!) but I have used a Spécialités TA Cyclotouriste crank with a 26-42 combination. It was for my utility bike in hilly Seattle. I found myself riding everywhere in the 26 tooth sprocket, though, so I switched to a triple with a 26-38-42 combination. That works!
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Old 10-05-17, 08:45 PM
  #252  
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Since it looks like some of you have already installed the FSA SL-K modular crankset, what the heck is the wrench you use in the self-extractor? I am used to using a 8mm hex wrench on the 24mm allow MegaExo cranks, but the set I received has a 12-point head stamped M18 (parts list says it is QR-19 - something like this . I have found zero documentation about what bit to use. Looks like a 10mm hex wrench fits, but want to make sure that is what it actually is before i start torquing it down


Last edited by markg; 10-05-17 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 10-06-17, 06:46 AM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by markg View Post
Since it looks like some of you have already installed the FSA SL-K modular crankset, what the heck is the wrench you use in the self-extractor? I am used to using a 8mm hex wrench on the 24mm allow MegaExo cranks, but the set I received has a 12-point head stamped M18 (parts list says it is QR-19 - something like this . I have found zero documentation about what bit to use. Looks like a 10mm hex wrench fits, but want to make sure that is what it actually is before i start torquing it down
I had the same question. I think there's a specific bit that you could use if you can find one, but I would have gone with the 10mm hex except that I had some other issues that I wasn't sure of and decided to have my shop install it. I think they only charged $30, which included repositioning and adjusting the derailleur, so I was glad to let them have at it.
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Old 10-06-17, 07:23 AM
  #254  
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A 10mm Allen wrench works fine. Make sure that you insert it fully into the splines so they're completely engaged and that you follow the torque recommendations in the instructions.
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Old 10-07-17, 03:30 PM
  #255  
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Ok, got it in. The 10mm does work, and the the socket engagement is quite deep. But wow...that was a TIGHT fit getting the crank installed. I am using the FSA 386EVO BSA bottom bracket, but it needed a bit of persuasion to (hard palm of hand) to get it through. It spins fine, but not sure how well torquing it pulled through evenly to both bearings,so will keep an eye on it.

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Old 10-09-17, 08:21 AM
  #256  
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Yeah, it's a snug fit, particularly on the first bearing, but once it's aligned with the second bearing, it seems to slide through fine. That fit will help to reduce any tendency to creak or become loose with use, so it's a good thing.

For those of you (like me) who's heels are prone to rubbing the crank, the stock protective fill will shred pretty quickly. I ended up replacing mine with black, pebble-grain door sill tape similar to "XPEL Black Universal Door Sill Guard" that you can find online. It's a harder material that resists abrasion much better.

It used to be available in clear too, but I couldn't find any online. The only clear materials I found were similar to the stock stuff. Some were thicker (sometimes called "helicopter tape"), which just increases the likelihood that your heels will rub it.

Last edited by Bnystrom; 10-09-17 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 10-12-17, 07:06 AM
  #257  
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I swapped out the OEM FSA Gossamer BB360EVO 48/32 crank on my Felt VR5 for a 46/30 this year, but didn't have any luck in my first try selling it on eBay. Mainly I wasn't sure how to price it since I haven't seen this exact crank listed there (many similar 50/34 cranksets and other more standard sizes). Shipping's getting more expensive these days, so that also adds to the buyer's cost. And I've been burned in the past by setting a low "starting bid" price and then having to sell it at that price to the lone bidder!

Anyone have any idea what it would be worth?
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Old 10-12-17, 02:07 PM
  #258  
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Somewhere around half of what it retails for would be a good starting point. I've seen them at online vendors, so you should be able to find it (a couple have it for $194). Adjust up or down from there, depending on it's condition.

One strategy is to set a starting price that you can live with, then adjust it as necessary if you don't get any takers. A decently high starting price eliminates the "tire kickers" immediately. There really isn't any way to predict what will happen on eBay.

You can also try selling it on Craigslist and Pinkbike, and there are probably other avenues out there.

Last edited by Bnystrom; 10-12-17 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 10-17-17, 03:18 PM
  #259  
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Originally Posted by wgscott View Post
I probably should have got that rather than WI.

Just read through this long, but informative thread.

@wgscott - was the square taper the primary reason you didn't like the WI crankset?
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Old 10-17-17, 05:03 PM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by steinercat View Post
Just read through this long, but informative thread.

@wgscott - was the square taper the primary reason you didn't like the WI crankset?
It was the primary reason why I thought I might not like it. It turns out it has been absolutely fine. They now make a 30mm version if you can use that.
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Old 10-24-17, 10:54 AM
  #261  
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Bit the bullet and got the FSA SL-K 46/30.
Got a good deal from Bike24.com in Germany €300 delivered to the UK. Better than the rip off Britain prices of £379!
Glad I held off getting it sooner as was able to get the shorter 170mm crank arms more suited to my 5'10".
Also picked up the FSA BB386EVO TO BB30A for £10! These are normally going for £30 in the UK.
Topped of with a K-edge XL Cyclocross chain catcher.
Won't be getting fitted for another couple of weeks as I'll be away.
Something to look forward to when I get back 😉

Last edited by Schadenfreuder; 10-24-17 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 10-24-17, 05:06 PM
  #262  
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
I just stupidly went the wrong way with my inner chainring, got a deal on a CX 70, 46/36. Didn't think that extra 2 teeth would matter in the middle of the season, but I was wrong. I have been having cramping problems, and that just made it worse.
I put the 34 tooth small chainring on and also the 11-36 cassette. The crank feels a lot more solid than the previous SRAM Rival 34/50. And I'm happier with the shifting. Hopefully the sub-compact crank situation straightens itself out a little more in the future. I recently completed a ride that featured a boatload of 15% grade hills, and a lower gear wouldn't have hurt. Although the 34-36 was pretty good. I'm using a CX 70 front derailleur and a SRAM x9 mtb rear derailleur, so I can handle some more chain wrap.
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Old 11-03-17, 03:48 PM
  #263  
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Question for you folks...I'm building up another bike (thought I was done???). I'm getting an Ultegra 6800 11 sp 46/36 crank/groupset and plan to replace the 36 with a 34. I plan to use an 11-34 Shimano cassette for starters. If I find that I need one more easier gear, does anyone know if an 11-36 SRAM mountain bike cassette will work with the Ultegra stuff?? The 36 will get me 25.5 gear inches vs 27.0 with the 34/34 which isn't a lot but it's something. I've run stuff like that together on 10 speed before with no issues-but I was using an XTR deraillleur. If needed I can add the wolflink for clearance on the 36 as well. I had to do that on the time trial bike when I added a 12-30 cassette with a short cage derailleur.

If all else fails I can always go with a 46/30 crankset but that will be more $$$.

Super excited about the new bike. It will open up all kinds of unpaved roads. Thanks for your thoughts.
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Old 11-03-17, 08:40 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by jppe View Post
Question for you folks...I'm building up another bike (thought I was done???). I'm getting an Ultegra 6800 11 sp 46/36 crank/groupset and plan to replace the 36 with a 34. I plan to use an 11-34 Shimano cassette for starters. If I find that I need one more easier gear, does anyone know if an 11-36 SRAM mountain bike cassette will work with the Ultegra stuff?? The 36 will get me 25.5 gear inches vs 27.0 with the 34/34 which isn't a lot but it's something. I've run stuff like that together on 10 speed before with no issues-but I was using an XTR deraillleur. If needed I can add the wolflink for clearance on the 36 as well. I had to do that on the time trial bike when I added a 12-30 cassette with a short cage derailleur.

If all else fails I can always go with a 46/30 crankset but that will be more $$$.

Super excited about the new bike. It will open up all kinds of unpaved roads. Thanks for your thoughts.
The SRAM 11-36 cassette will probably work with the Ultegra mid-cage RD without further modification and will definitely work with the addition of the Wolftooth RoadLink. But get the White Industries R30 crank with 46/30 rings just because it is a functional work of art.
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Old 11-03-17, 09:09 PM
  #265  
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Originally Posted by jppe View Post
Question for you folks...I'm building up another bike (thought I was done???). I'm getting an Ultegra 6800 11 sp 46/36 crank/groupset and plan to replace the 36 with a 34. I plan to use an 11-34 Shimano cassette for starters. If I find that I need one more easier gear, does anyone know if an 11-36 SRAM mountain bike cassette will work with the Ultegra stuff?? The 36 will get me 25.5 gear inches vs 27.0 with the 34/34 which isn't a lot but it's something. I've run stuff like that together on 10 speed before with no issues-but I was using an XTR deraillleur. If needed I can add the wolflink for clearance on the 36 as well. I had to do that on the time trial bike when I added a 12-30 cassette with a short cage derailleur.

If all else fails I can always go with a 46/30 crankset but that will be more $$$.

Super excited about the new bike. It will open up all kinds of unpaved roads. Thanks for your thoughts.

I run a Niner RLT 9 RDO with Ultegra 11 speed 6870 Di2, GS mid cage derailleur, 50/34 cranks and a SRAM PG-1170 (Force) 11-36 cassette.
Niner RLT 9 RDO Build
See posts 76, 128 and 137.

It shifted perfectly for 1200 miles. I make no guarantee that the same will be true of your bike but it worked fine on mine.

The B screw had to be turned almost all the way in and it is almost past the edge of the derailleur hanger. It can be reversed so that the head is against the derailleur hanger if necessary and I would not have hesitated even in the face of having to remove the derailleur to adjust the B screw. It's just more work that way. Particular attention has to be paid to chain length.

I used past tense "worked" because it has recently started skipping on the rear cassette when shifting to smaller sprocket under power. A Shimano 105 replacement chain was used to save a few dollars but an Ultegra chain seems to have resolved the issue. Time and a good long test ride will tell. I don't think the SRAM cassette plays nice with a 105 chain.

Feel free to PM me and ask any questions. I have a wolftooth roadlink if you find you need one.

Keeping it on topic - I might go with a Sugino OX91D 46/30 crankset because North Georgia has 2 mile climbs at 8% average grade.


-Tim-

Last edited by TimothyH; 11-03-17 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 11-04-17, 04:41 AM
  #266  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
I run a Niner RLT 9 RDO with Ultegra 11 speed 6870 Di2, GS mid cage derailleur, 50/34 cranks and a SRAM PG-1170 (Force) 11-36 cassette.
Niner RLT 9 RDO Build
See posts 76, 128 and 137.

It shifted perfectly for 1200 miles. I make no guarantee that the same will be true of your bike but it worked fine on mine.

The B screw had to be turned almost all the way in and it is almost past the edge of the derailleur hanger. It can be reversed so that the head is against the derailleur hanger if necessary and I would not have hesitated even in the face of having to remove the derailleur to adjust the B screw. It's just more work that way. Particular attention has to be paid to chain length.

I used past tense "worked" because it has recently started skipping on the rear cassette when shifting to smaller sprocket under power. A Shimano 105 replacement chain was used to save a few dollars but an Ultegra chain seems to have resolved the issue. Time and a good long test ride will tell. I don't think the SRAM cassette plays nice with a 105 chain.

Feel free to PM me and ask any questions. I have a wolftooth roadlink if you find you need one.

Keeping it on topic - I might go with a Sugino OX91D 46/30 crankset because North Georgia has 2 mile climbs at 8% average grade.


-Tim-
Thanks-as a followup, do you have a general rule of thumb on the gear difference for you for pedaling on dirt/gravel vs pavement? Example, if you're comfortable climbing an 8% paved grade on a 34/26 combo, would a 34/30 suffice on the gravel bike???? I know there are LOTS of variables but just curious. I've made it up every paved hill I've ridden on a 34/32 but thinking it's going to take at least a 34/36 on dirt/gravel on some stuff....

And we have some really nasty steep dirt stuff in sections of the NC mountains as well. My buddies that have ridden it tell me I'll be fine on a 34/34 but I think they are over estimating my abilities.
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Old 11-04-17, 04:51 AM
  #267  
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I can't answer for Tim, but in my case the 30T chainring with the 36T cassette cog gets used frequently on the types of dirt stuff you describe. I also find I need one or two gears lower for my WTB nanos than for my road tires when climbing the same (paved) hill. I've used the 30/36 combo on-road, and it made climbing 15 to 18% grades significantly easier (not that it is ever easy).
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Old 11-04-17, 05:50 AM
  #268  
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Originally Posted by jppe View Post
Thanks-as a followup, do you have a general rule of thumb on the gear difference for you for pedaling on dirt/gravel vs pavement? Example, if you're comfortable climbing an 8% paved grade on a 34/26 combo, would a 34/30 suffice on the gravel bike???? I know there are LOTS of variables but just curious. I've made it up every paved hill I've ridden on a 34/32 but thinking it's going to take at least a 34/36 on dirt/gravel on some stuff....

And we have some really nasty steep dirt stuff in sections of the NC mountains as well. My buddies that have ridden it tell me I'll be fine on a 34/34 but I think they are over estimating my abilities.
There's essentially no gravel roads here in SW Ohio, so I don't have a lot of experience. It probably depends on the gravel surface.

Last year, I tried climbing up Curtis Creek Road, near Old Fort NC. It's 8% average / 1800 feet sounded difficult, but I've handled similar climbs on a road bike, and my gravel bike has a 30F/29R low gear, lower than my road bike.

But the 10% section in the middle was too much for me. The gravel was kind of chunky, and took too much power to climb that steep a grade. I turned around and headed back down.

I've ridden very nice groomed gravel roads in upstate NY, with pea sized gravel, compacted and graded smooth. Short 12% climbs were fairly easy there.
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Old 11-04-17, 07:21 AM
  #269  
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Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
There's essentially no gravel roads here in SW Ohio, so I don't have a lot of experience. It probably depends on the gravel surface.

Last year, I tried climbing up Curtis Creek Road, near Old Fort NC. It's 8% average / 1800 feet sounded difficult, but I've handled similar climbs on a road bike, and my gravel bike has a 30F/29R low gear, lower than my road bike.

But the 10% section in the middle was too much for me. The gravel was kind of chunky, and took too much power to climb that steep a grade. I turned around and headed back down.

I've ridden very nice groomed gravel roads in upstate NY, with pea sized gravel, compacted and graded smooth. Short 12% climbs were fairly easy there.
I'll probably give Curtis Creek a try. Looks like a nice loop to combine it with Hwy 80 or even an up and back to the top of Mitchell.

When I was riding across the US there were a number of opportunities to ride dirt/gravel but unless it was a short section the 23s on my road bike just weren't a good fit.
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Old 11-04-17, 07:38 AM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by wgscott View Post
I can't answer for Tim, but in my case the 30T chainring with the 36T cassette cog gets used frequently on the types of dirt stuff you describe. I also find I need one or two gears lower for my WTB nanos than for my road tires when climbing the same (paved) hill. I've used the 30/36 combo on-road, and it made climbing 15 to 18% grades significantly easier (not that it is ever easy).
For some strange reason 15-18% just seems steeper than it used to???? I was riding yesterday and hit a 10% section and it got me pretty good. But I'd just polished off 1/2 BBQ chicken plus a huge helping of potato salad and I'm blaming it on that!!!


IMG_0237 by joe price, on Flickr


144DF5CA-D28E-4AF8-BBDE-C7F28D064F81 by joe price, on Flickr



TimH-My buddy's niner---love the fenders

IMG_0242 by joe price, on Flickr
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Old 11-04-17, 09:35 AM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by jppe View Post
Thanks-as a followup, do you have a general rule of thumb on the gear difference for you for pedaling on dirt/gravel vs pavement? Example, if you're comfortable climbing an 8% paved grade on a 34/26 combo, would a 34/30 suffice on the gravel bike???? I know there are LOTS of variables but just curious. I've made it up every paved hill I've ridden on a 34/32 but thinking it's going to take at least a 34/36 on dirt/gravel on some stuff....

And we have some really nasty steep dirt stuff in sections of the NC mountains as well. My buddies that have ridden it tell me I'll be fine on a 34/34 but I think they are over estimating my abilities.

I'll agree with @wgscott and add that the mountains of Western North Carolina and those of North Georgia are very similar. Climbing at 12% with sections of 15% and short sections of 18% is not uncommon and the gravel can be gnarly, not little pea gravel.

Much like you, anyone who tells me that 34/34 is "fine" for this geography is clearly a much stronger rider than I. My gravel bike is 34 front and 36 rear and I wish it had a lower gear for those extended climbs at 8% grade or more. 12% grade or more on loose surfaces is a challenge.

The road bike rarely if ever sees that sort of grade and the 34/32 combination is fine.

As @wgscott said, I think the 30f/36r combination will be "used frequently" (LoL) and hence my interest in this thread. Heck, even the guys at gravelcyclist.com put on a subcompact crank for the North Carolina mountains.
Review: Sugino OX901D Compact Plus Crankset - Need low gears? - Gravel Cyclist: The Gravel Cycling Experience
My birthday is coming up and a Sugino OX91D would make a mighty fine present.

Please let us know what you decide.


-Tim-
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Old 11-05-17, 06:55 AM
  #272  
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Just as another two cents worth, I had a bike with a 30x36 low combo where the 30 was the inner ring on a triple. The setup was definitely beyond the capacity of my derailleur, but it was never an issue since I simply avoided going to the smallest two or three cassette cogs when on the small ring (the case where the chain has maximum slack). After all, there's no reason to be that cross-chained when speeding up since you're much better off shifting to a larger ring.

I only used the 30-36 in very low, low situations; it worked well and I would shift the chainring up as soon as I got to the top of the hill.
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Old 11-05-17, 08:22 PM
  #273  
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Originally Posted by jppe View Post
TimH-My buddy's niner---love the fenders

IMG_0242 by joe price, on Flickr
Just took some time to review the thread and noticed this. This bike is really nice!
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Old 11-05-17, 08:39 PM
  #274  
Ballenxj
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
Just took some time to review the thread and noticed this. This bike is really nice!
Yes, it really is.
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Old 11-07-17, 05:10 PM
  #275  
BluesDawg
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New option. You get to choose your own ring combination and you can go as low as 28 on the small ring.
IRD Lobo "Adventure" Crankset
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