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Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18972571)
here's a good price on my favorite helmet
Bell Muni and another (your size) What I like about it are good adjustments, the sun-visor bill, a snap-in rear view mirror, and snap-in Blackburn flea lights front and rear it's also one of the best-vented helmets made Ty for the link BD!!:D |
Ok, I do see how to adjust the straps to actually bring the front down. We'll see how that works for me, and it may not be the most comfy helmet, but it will work until I get a better one;)
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Originally Posted by Bandera
(Post 18972539)
Nice bike, looks to be in Primo shape.
And love all the great info a new rider is getting here. :thumb: |
Originally Posted by Biker395
(Post 18972620)
Yea, I'll say. Love the color.
And love all the great info a new rider is getting here. :thumb: |
Originally Posted by abbynormal
(Post 18970038)
Wow, I like this idea!! I was thinking I would have to completely remove the old bars, changed the shifters etc. I like these types, or something like them, what do you think Barrett?? And thank you sooooo much!!
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Originally Posted by MRT2
(Post 18972741)
While bar ends allow you to rotate your hands, I don't think it solves your problem
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Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18969992)
Please don't take offense here, but you're not supposed to lean on the bars.
You should support yourself with core muscles, use the bars for balance, bend your elbows, and keep your wrists straight. |
Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18969992)
Please don't take offense here, but you're not supposed to lean on the bars.
You should support yourself with core muscles, use the bars for balance, bend your elbows, and keep your wrists straight. I'm using Ahearne Map bars on an upright I built, and find they have a very natural hand position. Map bars with an 80mm stem place the grips even with the top of the steerer tube (back of stem). You can adjust your reach forward or back from there with a longer or shorter stem. A shorter reach stem will make the bike steer a bit faster, but taking your weight off of the bar will make everything more stable and give you more control. Ahearne+Map Handlebar ? Ahearne Cycles Another variant on the same bar is the Nitto Jitensha touring bar Nitto Jitensha B2522 Touring Handlebar 26.0 - Black here's a good article on "Alt" mountain bars, and you'll see most of them kind of follow this same shape. Alternative or "Alt" Mountain Bike Handlebar Round Up Not suggesting you buy any of these, but get some ideas for bar shape options. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...aaPB160010.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...aaPB160014.jpg The next thing to consider are swept-back bar options, Albatross, Northroad or cruiser type bars - these work best with a longer stem. Take a look at how Rivendell sets up bikes Bikes Nice thing about all these bars, they will be able to use your same brakes and controls. |
Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18969992)
Please don't take offense here, but you're not supposed to lean on the bars.
You should support yourself with core muscles, use the bars for balance, bend your elbows, and keep your wrists straight. I'm using Ahearne Map bars on an upright I built, and find they have a very natural hand position. Map bars with an 80mm stem place the grips even with the top of the steerer tube (back of stem). You can adjust your reach forward or back from there with a longer or shorter stem. A shorter reach stem will make the bike steer a bit faster, but taking your weight off of the bar will make everything more stable and give you more control. Ahearne+Map Handlebar ? Ahearne Cycles Another variant on the same bar is the Nitto Jitensha touring bar Nitto Jitensha B2522 Touring Handlebar 26.0 - Black here's a good article on "Alt" mountain bars, and you'll see most of them kind of follow this same shape. Alternative or "Alt" Mountain Bike Handlebar Round Up Not suggesting you buy any of these, but get some ideas for bar shape options. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...aaPB160010.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...aaPB160014.jpg The next thing to consider are swept-back bar options, Albatross, Northroad or cruiser type bars - these work best with a longer stem. Take a look at how Rivendell sets up bikes Bikes Nice thing about all these bars, they will be able to use your same brakes and controls. |
That bike just above has been out 88 miles - couldn't have done it if I was leaning on my hands
neither would this one, and it has the longest reach of the 3 bikes I ride http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...c8cd85dbfb.jpg it's not crazy, it's a good habit, and when you lean into your core muscles you get a burst of spin energy that will take your momentum up any grade just think about your core muscles when you're pedaling and you'll feel it accelerate you... The good habit is riding in your core muscles. Your bike is stable and steering is light. The bad habit is riding in your neck and shoulders - you get cervical strain, pinched nerves in your hands, heavy, uncontrollable steering, poor breathing and ultimately Shermer's syndrome http://www.active.com/cycling/articl...bizarre-injury and he's still riding with elbows locked and wrists bent backward - bad habit, hard head http://theunitedstatesofdelerium.com...-mainImage.jpg look at the bad turtle he's doing with his neck - my neck hurts just looking at this photo look at the line from his spine to his skull - of course this will injure you riding in this position, and the brace isn't going to help ride stupid and you, too can have a syndrome named after you - only he's already got this one |
Ok, so you put your dependence mostly on your core muscles, it sounds hard to learn, but it makes more sense now that you explained it further. I'm pretty sure I can google some info that might even show the proper posture, I did have some ache/pain in my hands, neck and back, but thought that was something I'd get used to. I don't want to get used to doing it the wrong way though.
I'll work on this BD and let you know here, how I'm doing, thank you much. Your core is the "center" area of your body right? When I was learning how to balance properly on a horse, riding English, they showed me something similar, I'm sure. |
http://www.bikeforums.net/18972855-post16.html
this is on another thread - check this core muscle climb in a tall gear straight wrists, bent elbows |
Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18973062)
http://www.bikeforums.net/18972855-post16.html
this is on another thread - check this core muscle climb in a tall gear straight wrists, bent elbows I had never thought about posture, but it's common sense for me to pay attention to that. I am doing that a lot when I am just standing or sitting because I noticed several years ago I was not "doing" good posture:( |
I have two injured vertebrae in my neck from sitting at a light in my Alfa years ago and watching in my mirror as a guy drove into the back of me.
When it is inflamed, I can't write. Though it is expected to deteriorate, I haven't had any kind of therapy on it in 15+ years - good circulation from bicycling (properly) is mostly what I need. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ecoy/paint.jpg When I bicycle I adjust my helmet mirror so if I'm lifting my shoulders it blocks my view and I immediately relax my shoulders, which also gives me that burst of spin energy. |
A few more bar options, both feature a lot of backsweep that will transfer weight off the bars and onto the saddle;
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...31&category=43 VO Montmartre Handlebar - Handlebars - Components |
Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18973164)
I have two injured vertebrae in my neck from sitting at a light in my Alfa years ago and watching in my mirror as a guy drove into the back of me.
When it is inflamed, I can't write. Though it is expected to deteriorate, I haven't had any kind of therapy on it in 15+ years - good circulation from bicycling (properly) is mostly what I need. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ecoy/paint.jpg When I bicycle I adjust my helmet mirror so if I'm lifting my shoulders it blocks my view and I immediately relax my shoulders, which also gives me that burst of spin energy. |
Originally Posted by Cassave
(Post 18973420)
A few more bar options, both feature a lot of backsweep that will transfer weight off the bars and onto the saddle;
www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=52831&category=43 VO Montmartre Handlebar - Handlebars - Components |
Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18972945)
...
it's not crazy, it's a good habit, and when you lean into your core muscles you get a burst of spin energy that will take your momentum up any grade just think about your core muscles when you're pedaling and you'll feel it accelerate you... The good habit is riding in your core muscles. Your bike is stable and steering is light.... This is a technique that deserves a lot more use. But it sure makes you appreciate how nice it feels to go back to leaning on the bars for a while. :) |
Originally Posted by abbynormal
(Post 18969933)
since I think leaning so much on the bars I have is going to be an issue (pic of bike below). I have the Hardrock that I bought 2nd hand, and love it. I rode and rode some more yesterday, but noticed some sort of arthritic type pain in my arms last night. Just thinking taking some pressure off my arms will be a good idea.
I don't know how I'll change out those bars, but I'm sure there's a way:foo: First I'll wait for some feedback, if anyone would like to chime in, always appreciated;) denise Ergon , nice paddle shaped grips, n. 2,3,4,5, include bar ends of increasing length ... alter stem length. angle perhaps? |
I swapped out the flat bars on my fat-bike for Salsa Woodchippers (modified drop bar) and added a Ritchey adjustable stem to bring the bars up slightly. I've ridden thusly for 6 months including a back to back century and miles on the windy beach (hence the drops, to get low into wind).
Unlike flat bars, drops offer a multitude of hand positions. It's not an inexpensive solution because I also went to road levers and bar end shifters. But a smart mechanic at an LBS could fix you up inexpensively by using takeoff parts from an older road bike. You'd likely have to buy an adjustable stem. Bar ends ("bull horns") are ok though they get your hands away from brakes, shifters, and they can snag clothing, etc. Another think you can do is take pipe insulation foam and wrap inside (towards stem) to give your hands a larger comfortable rest space. I did this for several months till I switched to drops. |
Looking at the picture, I notice your arms are straight. I suspect this is the cause of your pain -- the road shocks that get to your bars go straight into your elbows and shoulders. The solution, if that's the case, is simple to prescribe: keep your elbows slightly bent.
Implementing the solution is a bit more difficult. Practice, practice, practice! |
Originally Posted by Old Dutchman
(Post 18977359)
I tried this out on my morning ride, and WOW, you're right, just taking the weight off your hands makes you pedal way harder. It's hard to do on the flat, 'cause you just keep going faster and needing higher gears. But on the hills, I tried to do this instead of down-shifting. It allowed me to stay about a gear higher (like I'd stay in 1-4 where I normally would have gone to 1-3).
This is a technique that deserves a lot more use. But it sure makes you appreciate how nice it feels to go back to leaning on the bars for a while. :) oh, and I took all those gears... and you're right, leaning into your core muscles is like getting a tailwind The next trick is get your bike set up so you can do it all the time. I only consciously lean on the bars when I'm braking, and then everybody has to. Maybe it's my injury that got me here, but if you look at the pros, they ride 100% on their core muscles, too http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk...index-2016.jpg |
Originally Posted by pdlamb
(Post 18977566)
Looking at the picture, I notice your arms are straight. I suspect this is the cause of your pain -- the road shocks that get to your bars go straight into your elbows and shoulders. The solution, if that's the case, is simple to prescribe: keep your elbows slightly bent.
Implementing the solution is a bit more difficult. Practice, practice, practice! Then it will be easier for her not to lean on her shoulders and wrists. [Tips] Correct posture on the bike | BikeisFun.com http://bikeisfun.com/wp-content/uplo...the-bike-1.png https://momentummag.com/upright-bike...njoy-the-ride/ Lovely Bicycle!: How Upright Is Upright? GW gets it - on a 100km with wounded vets - elbows bent, wrists straight http://i.huffpost.com/gen/1164750/th...BIKE-570.jpg?6 |
I would not make bar ends face inwards myself. That's just asking to get impaled.
Maybe you could move your seat back a little bit or add the bar ends facing forwards and up. Try that first. |
Originally Posted by bulldog1935
(Post 18977758)
She needs a shorter reach, and that's some type of swept-back bar, whether Alt MTN bars or Bosco/Albatross.
Then it will be easier for her not to lean on her shoulders and wrists. It may be easier, but it's not guaranteed. Pull the bars back a couple inches, she can still lock her elbows and lean on them, causing elbow pain. Until you get to a sit-up-and-beg setup with the bars 4-6" above the saddle, in a geometry where it's impossible to lean on the bars, a rider can still lock her elbows. If that's what OP is headed for, she'd be better advised to get a different bike. Changing the bars, brakes, and shifters will cost as much as a decent cruiser or hybrid. |
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