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Selecting a mtn bike

Old 07-26-17, 09:54 AM
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Selecting a mtn bike

Did not want to ask this where the KIDS will answer.
Background:
78 YO so number of years it will be used is probably low
Will only be used in summer. No safe place to ride a road bike
No rock hopping, stump jumping - ATV/Jeep type routes or better - no single track type riding
Can't buy used without driving 150 - 200 miles just to look. Creede, CO is in the middle of nowhere
Confused by options for 26 - 27.5 - 29" tires.
Hi cadence rider - can't mash due to knees
Could spend 1 - 2 K but think there are lots of bikes that will work for under $500.
Just looking for a good "Old Fart" mtn bike. Ideas and suggestions on what worked for you appreciated.

Last edited by ctpres; 07-26-17 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 07-26-17, 01:04 PM
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https://cosprings.craigslist.org/bik...233398116.html
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Old 07-26-17, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by freedomrider1
Yup lots on Craigs and Ebay but that one is typical. Over 200 miles to look and I would not buy sight unseen. Niner must be good saw a "Damaged frame" on Ebay for over $200 plus shipping!

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Old 07-26-17, 02:22 PM
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You really are in the middle of nowhere,i had a hard time finding Creede. How about a used one around town. You want what is called a hard tail. Meaning no shock on the frame. Less cost and you don.t need it for the riding you do.

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Old 07-26-17, 03:18 PM
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OK Hardtail - one option down.
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Old 07-26-17, 05:28 PM
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I have a couple of bikes that fit the OP's description. The two bikes melded to distill the best of each would have these characteristics:
  • 700x40 or wider tires -- I've found wide tires that can safely be run at fairly low pressure matter more than tread design or anything else. Anything narrower than 700x38 feels sketchy and I'm more focused on staying head-up/wheels-down than enjoying the ride.
  • Linear pull/V-brakes rather than cantilevers. Good linear pull brakes are easier to adjust and demand less squeeze to stop while retaining good modulation. And they can clear wide rims and tires just as well.
  • Weight around 30 lbs or less. Surprisingly -- to myself, anyway -- my lighter road bike only feels lighter and quicker climbing paved hills. My 30 lb 1990s era Univega rigid frame/fork mountain bike feels plenty spry on gravel and grass. I only wish it would clear tires wider than 700x40. I'd slap on a set of Schwalbe Big Ones or the updated variation.

Or just get a fat bike. Seriously, between videos by Jens Jacobs' "Old Man, Fat Bike" channel on YouTube, and those consarned infernal whippersnapper youngsters on GCN's mountain biking partner channel, GMCN, those fat bikes look like the bee's knees for us low-skill riders who enjoy prowling around off road.

Fat bikes seem especially rider friendly on downhills, turns and really rough stuff like "gravel" that's basically just enormous sharp railroad ballast.

In our local casual group rides there's always at least one fat bike and those riders have no trouble cruising at our leisurely 12 mph pace. And I've ridden alongside fat bike riders on the local gravel trails and the reasonably fit riders can cruise all day at 15 mph (heck, I struggle to ride 15 mph on my road bike on pavement!). So the weight, usually around 35 lbs, doesn't seem to hinder riders.

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Old 07-26-17, 05:30 PM
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The previously posted link to the Jamis is a good example of what I would be considering based on your description of your terrain. I would also be looking at 27.5+ or 29+ for a little extra cushion without the added cost, weight and maintenance of a full suspension.
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Old 07-26-17, 06:13 PM
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OP Here: Glad I didn't ask the KIDS! Would turn my Zenetto road bike into a gravel bike - but without changing rims and probably brakes can't get over 700x28 which are my current training tires. Not to mention I would really hate to dump my baby in the gravel. Need to save her for my 80th BD century. I'm a techie at heart and so far can't resist the idea of hydraulic disc brakes. Seems similar bikes with 26 to 29 inch tires have same cog and crank ratios. That to me means bigger tires equal less hill climbing ability but faster downhill. I gave up on the need for speed when I hit 43 mph going down the Hurricane Ridge park road in Port Angeles, WA two summers ago. Old bodies don't repair the same. Appreciate the comments - keep em coming and I promise to let y'all know what I end up with and how it works out in the real world of senior citizen riding.
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Old 07-26-17, 09:03 PM
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You need a 27.5 inch hard tail, with 100 -120 mm of travel in the fork. Air. Details like gearing are a bit hard to address but you would probably be fine with a 30 or 32 crank on a single (X10). Pretty much anything over 2 inches for tires; but not much over (2.1-2.3). You definitely want decent hydraulic disc brakes (I use Avid, Shimano is fine, my experience with Tektro leaves me doubtful).

29ers feel 'funny' to me (a bit unwieldy). Better for rolling over big rocks and drops. 26 is better as a technical trail bike -but is really yesterday's news. Can even be hard to find (and impossible to sell).

I wouldn't bother with tubeless. Little noticeable difference and tend to be fussy.

You will do best with an aluminum bike, unless you want to leave a carbon bike in your estate!
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Old 07-26-17, 09:38 PM
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i would recommend a Salsa Fargo for gravel and dirt road mtn biking. you can fit these bikes with a suspension fork, or you can run it with a carbon or steel fork. a new one is in your price range, but they have been around for a while, so you may be able to find a used one on eBay or CL.

i don't think you would benefit from smaller wheels if you plan to avoid singletrack. you will get a relatively smoother ride on the 29er wagon wheels. you might prefer steel over alum for the same reason.

a gravel bike that fits larger volume tires (40mm or more) would be a valid alternative if you are disinterested in front suspension. but in that scenario, i would still rec a rigid mtn bike for the larger tire volume.

at age 78, i would think you'd want the widest gear range possible. a double, or even a triple crank, would be the way to go.

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Old 07-26-17, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mileslong
The previously posted link to the Jamis is a good example of what I would be considering based on your description of your terrain. I would also be looking at 27.5+ or 29+ for a little extra cushion without the added cost, weight and maintenance of a full suspension.
That Jamis is a 27.5 bike. It looks pretty good to me and there are some others on that site if you click on the "summer bike clearance". I really like the Yeti for around $4k.
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Old 07-27-17, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mountain Mitch
You need a 27.5 inch hard tail, with 100 -120 mm of travel in the fork. Air. Details like gearing are a bit hard to address but you would probably be fine with a 30 or 32 crank on a single (X10). Pretty much anything over 2 inches for tires; but not much over (2.1-2.3). You definitely want decent hydraulic disc brakes (I use Avid, Shimano is fine, my experience with Tektro leaves me doubtful).

29ers feel 'funny' to me (a bit unwieldy). Better for rolling over big rocks and drops. 26 is better as a technical trail bike -but is really yesterday's news. Can even be hard to find (and impossible to sell).

I wouldn't bother with tubeless. Little noticeable difference and tend to be fussy.

You will do best with an aluminum bike, unless you want to leave a carbon bike in your estate!
^Superb post. Completely accurate. Air front shock is a must, so that you can tune its compression to your weight...


Do this exactly as written.

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Old 07-27-17, 06:49 AM
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27.5" is fine. But at 70 YO, why not a full sus? It will you a better and comfy ride. Just wonderin'.
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Old 07-27-17, 07:07 AM
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Giant ToughRoad.
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Old 07-27-17, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Tokwan
27.5" is fine. But at 70 YO, why not a full sus? It will you a better and comfy ride. Just wonderin'.
Adds weight and expense. Also, even with a 'lockout' it absorbs some of your pedalling energy. The OP appears to be an experienced road rider so doesn't need a rocking chair! He's just looking for something to ride dirt and gravel roads. The fork should keep him from getting too jarred.
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Old 07-28-17, 05:52 PM
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I'm 65 and started riding mountain bikes when I was 61. Takes an insane amount of skill. No one can really help you because there is so much personal preference. What I did was look at reviews of bikes and frames so I could put together a list if potential bikes, well frames for me and a bike for my wife. I spent a long time doing research, but the one advantage I had was that a neighbor gave me an old GT mountain bike so I could at least see what I was getting into.

You have a few options. If you have never ridden a mountain bike or even in dirt roads, it might be worth it to go the cheaper used route just to have some idea if it is what you want to do. I ride 26" hardtails from the 90's. Probably not the best selection and in hindsight I probably should have looked at something newer in a 29". A 29er will roll over a lot if ruts and uneven sections easier than a bike with smaller wheels. On Jeep trails it will make it pretty easy as you will have little technical sections.

I have been pretty lucky with eBay. Bought 3 bikes and 3 frames and a bunch of forks and wheels. You just have to check the pictures over really good. A bone stock bike that looks like it has hardly been ridden is what to look for. If you see something go research the heck out if it. I tend to stay clear of highly upgraded/modified bikes for what you are looking for, because that generally signals a lot of use and maybe abuse. If you don't feel comfortable, especially after answers to questions, move on.

John

Edit added: If you can borrow a mountain bike just to try it out, it would be very helpful.

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Old 07-28-17, 06:31 PM
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OP Here: Building my wish list
Shimano, Sram or FSA brake and shifting components
Aluminum frame total weight around 30 pounds
Two water bottle mounts
27.5x2 tires
Stainless spokes
22 crank and 34 or 36 cog 3 x 9 min.
Front suspension 100 mm travel minimum with lockout
Close to 30 pounds
Quick release seat and front wheel at minimum
Replaceable rear hanger (NOT FRAME MOUNTED.)
Hydraulic brakes 160 mm min rotors prefer 180 up front
UNDER $500.00 new!
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Old 07-28-17, 06:34 PM
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try bikesdirect.com. Look at 29er hardtails, but a full suspension 27.5 will take you anywhere and is easy on the bones.
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Old 07-28-17, 08:17 PM
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OP Here: I got it. Here is my new bike! Just about everything I wanted except the 27.5 tires. Now all I have to do is wait for it to get here. ETA late next week. Promise to post bike review and purchase price here in a week or two. Wanted M7XL version but this to good to pass up.

SPECIFICATIONS:
Brand: Sundeal
Model: M7
Frame size: 17"
Color: Red
Weight: 30.9lbs (Size 17")
Condition: New in box
COMPONENTS:
Frame: Tig Welded 6061 Aluminum, water bottle mounts, rack / fender mounts
Fork: Suntour XCM-HLO-26-100 1-1/8"Straight Travel: 100mm with manual lockout
Type: Coil
Rims: Sundeal Alloy, 26", 27mm width (outer), Double Wall, , Schrader valve drilling, Clincher - tubed
Headset: Unbranded, semi-integrated, internal style
Hubs: Aluminum, QR axles, 6-bolt disc compatible, Ball/Cone type bearings
Tires: Kenda Kick Back, Clincher - tubed, Wire Bead, 26 x 2.0", 40-65PSI
Shifters: Shimano Altus, SL-M370, 3 x 9 speed
Front derailleur: Shimano Altus 3 speed
Rear derailleur: Shimano Altus 9 speed
Handlebar: Sundeal 6061 alloy, 620mm
Cranks: Shimano FC-M371, Triple, alloy square taper, 170mm
Cassette: Shimano, CS-HG20-9, 9 speed
Pedals: Alloy / Steel spindle, Unsealed
Chain: KMC Z, 9s
Bottom bracket: Square taper, sealed
Spokes: black coated with brass nipples
Schrader Valves
Stem: Sundeal Alloy, 90mm
Saddle: Sundeal
Seatpost: Sundeal Alloy
Seatpost clamp: Alloy
Brakes: Shimano BR/BL-M355 Hydraulic disc with 160mm rotors
Grips: Rubber, lock-on

ABOUT THE MANUFACTURER:

These bikes are made by Ideal, one of the largest bicycle manufacturers in the world. They supply and manufacturer bikes for a number of many famous brands that you likely know. Sundeal is their house brand. These are of the same high quality as the aforementioned brands.
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Old 07-29-17, 05:12 AM
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Congratulations, there is nothing quite like getting a new bike.....now go ride it like you stole it!
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Old 07-30-17, 04:02 PM
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Sold my old no name mountain bike to the first one that looked at it for $75. Since new one just cost $185 and $38 freight - I am in good shape. Will review the new Sundeal next week.
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Old 08-07-17, 01:59 PM
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OP here: as promised here a quick review of what I ended up buying.
My new Old Fart bike is a Sundeal M7. Price - won on Ebay bidding $185 plus $38 shipping - otherwise about $300 delivered. Out of the box - only Shimano Altus hydraulic brakes needed any attention - had to adjust reach to keep lever from hitting bar. After a couple rides had to readjust - back closer to the original setting. Guess they just needed burping. Brakes worked very good on first serious downhill. Was expecting noise but there was none. Shimano Altus shifters take a little getting used. Two paddles one up and one down actually easy to use. I thought shift display not needed but I find myself using it frequently. Shifting a bit loud. ​The low gear 11 22 combination allowed me to climb places I could not before. The really big surprise -TIRES.- the Kenda Kick Backs (small block) really are different. Close spacing on the blocks/knobs makes them quieter and smoother riding on pavement. Previous bike had regular knobby tires and I had to be very careful crossing the loose gravel crown created by the ATVs. The Kick Backs seem handle the loose stuff by rolling over vs digging in. Previous bike had no suspension. Started out with front fork locked and then changed to lightest setting - wow much better for my old bones. So I can now say it is possible to find a good budget priced light weight (30.9 pounds) mountain bike with reasonable quality components. I did look hard for one with 27.5 tires - but seems 27.5 bikes in same price range as 26ers have lower quality components. Looked like one or two hundred more for one with 27.5 and same components. Guess the marketing guys are are just doing their thing - maybe in a couple more years that price difference will change. I'm happy.
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Old 08-07-17, 06:15 PM
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Congrats on the new bike! Glad it is working out for you. If the terrain is not too rough, a 26" is just as good. It will climb easier with the same gear ratio.

John
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Old 08-09-17, 06:41 PM
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I think that you should purge "mountain bike" from your vocabulary.

A well stocked bike shop today will have dozens of quite different styles of bicycles in stock. Tier widths might vary from less than one inch to more than 4 inches. Describe the kind of riding that you picture yourself doing. Ask them where places like that exist in your area. If they can't answer that question pretty easily, try a different shop. If they do have a good answer for you, ask what kind of bike they'd recommend for that trail.
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Old 08-10-17, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
I think that you should purge "mountain bike" from your vocabulary.

A well stocked bike shop today will have dozens of quite different styles of bicycles in stock. Tier widths might vary from less than one inch to more than 4 inches. Describe the kind of riding that you picture yourself doing. Ask them where places like that exist in your area. If they can't answer that question pretty easily, try a different shop. If they do have a good answer for you, ask what kind of bike they'd recommend for that trail.
Thanks but as 78 YO - baring a total loss of either current bike - my bike buying days are over.
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